Well, I didnt know enough to heed the warnings about the vacuum pump on these and it did indeed "unglue" itself with no warning.

Head had been redone at 230K, all GPs are new, Viton O rings everywhere.

The VP was replaced but unglued in short order. A nice pile of metal was awaiting me when I popped the oil filter cover off

While I have found an engine for $2500, I simply do not have the time to monkey with it, unfortunately. Now to the good news.

The engine still starts fine and will run, BUT I have parked the car and thrown a car cover on it, as I don't want it to detonate itself.

No rust, body has one minor ding in the drivers side door. The front fascia was cracked and I rebuilt it with Marine-Tex. No rips in the interior, just normal wear. Tranny shifts great ( well it did not under the last VP failure). AC works, but there might be a leak in the system. Evap has been replaced before. The only two details I havent gotten to are the driver side tumbler, which will set the alarm off sometimes and the rear window defogger is out.

All flulds have been changed, incl tranny filter, although the fresh oil in the crankcase was a waste. It has NO leaks.

For someone with the time to flush the engine and rebearing it, I do not beleive any major damage has been done. A new IP drive gear and chain is likely all it would need. Piston tops and prechambers looked MINT at 232K when the head was off. The car has been drinking a biodiesel blend, so everything was very clean inside. I have not disassembled the valve cover to see if the cam/buckets are scored, but again, the head was redone at 232K, so the valve job ( new intake valves btw) is fresh.

Car ran mint until a week ago.

So while I am torn as to what to do with the car, I post up a "make offer" ad here in the case some enthusiast with time on his/her hands can make the car right again. Or I will over the winter. Trouble is, even after plugging in a $2500 90K motor, I likely couldn't get $3000 for the car anyway. And while you can start it to ensure it works, I WOULD NOT run the engine this way. Again, no major damage, I beleive, is done YET. But no doubt it must be close.

PM me with any Q's.

GENE

The link in my sig has a pic, and I can get more if we have any interest here. Is still a darn fine car. Only wish I had the time to monkey with it.

I'll get some pics today if the rain holds off.

Now flaws, mentally walking from the back of the car....

1.) trunk tumbler is stuck, key will no longer lock/unlock truck
2.) scrape on rear bumper
3.) fuel neck gasket is a bit "boogery" from bio.
4.) diff has small elak from pass side axle. Needs to be checked/topped off every 15K or so.
5.) the cloth on interior lower pillars on both rear entrances are a bit messed up.
6.) rear drivers window reg was replaced with cheap chicom one and its NOISY!
7.) small dent right at the crease line in drivers door.
8.) center console is messed up. Hinge broke on the top.
9.) small "scar" on drivers side door panel.
10.) windsheild washer stopped working, attempted to solder the "piggy back" connector, it worked for a while, and then stopped again. New pump was NOT the answer.
11.) stone chip in drivers side headlamp. I actaully sealed it from the inside with 25 yr clear outdoor caulk.
12.) bumper replaced and then I cracked the lower pass side fascia. Instead of spending another $500 ( was lucky to find one local) , I used Marine Tex to repair the damage.

I'll get pics of all these "blems". Other than that, the car gets compliments when its freshly polished and waxed.

Price???? I know the head itself is worth near $800, as it only has 20K on the rebuild, even if the cams/followers are scored up. IP is good. 2 brand new Toyo Proxies on front, 2 rears have around 15K on them.

Sunroof works fine, all windows. AC did leak out over the winter, and is leaking slightly somewhere.

I would however, like to remove the vacuum pump and unass a magazine of .223 armor piercing through it. Adn then tie a 1/4 stick to whats left and send it to God!!!

Am trying to replace this with another MBz diesel, so I may want to keep the new Pioneer radio and maybe the new rubber. But, too soon to tell.
OK Pics will be up.

Remember you cant drive this thing. While engine isnt blown yet, I wouldnt even start it at this point to aviod additional damage.

Some Pics:

are you thinking about parting it out?

__________________
2005 SL65
1999 E300
1995 E300
1994 SL320
1988 560SL
1987 300TD
1982 300D
1955 300SL

Not really husk. Issues with time, which is why I've decided to replace it for now, and not swap the engines.

Maybe I missed it in your ad, but what is your asking price?

I happen to have a complete 2.5 Turbo (OM602) engine sitting in my garage right now.

SteveM

__________________
'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

I never got around to reckoning what its worth. AS it stands now, I may just keep the car until winter and have a nice project on my hands.

So unless someone is willing to pay, say, over 2K and come get it, it would be worth it to me to just let 'er sit covered until I can rebuild the shortblock.

Maybe it'll finally stop burning oil!

Are you trying to sell the car, or are you just "thinking about it"?

What is your actual asking price?

(You already stated that even with a $2500 replacement engine that you don't think the car would be worth $3K)

SteveM

__________________
'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

1500.

Reduced.

I fired the car up the other day as I needed to move it, and pushed it into a dip in the yard. Man, I dont think this mill is rebuildable without replacing everything. I generated more horsepower than it did.


Is the car, sans engine worth $1500? No rust. No dents. Fresh rubber. AC works, everything works, except the mill.

I can see I wont have the time to be fixing it over the winter.

Please come flat bed it away and make a good car out of it again!

Well you did ask, so:

Unfortunately the cost to transport and repair it eclipses its value when finished, at least from where I am.

Too bad really, I'd love to have it to put a fresh engine in, but not practical.

It's likely that if you can't find someone with a wrecked E300 / good engine, or just a 60x engine around looking for a project, it's worth more in parts. It pains me to say so. If someone were nearer than I am and were ready for such a project as I am, ... it'd should certainly be worth the $1500.

Let me know if you're driving past with the car in tow, ... these things never happen near me.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Funny, I'll be going to Davison MI next weekend, but dont ask me to tow a car thru Canada!

I actually miss the 124 vs the 210. The 124 seems tighter all the way around, er, except the engine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230370290225

Gene, FYI. Transporting a car THRU Canada Is really no problem . It is when your bring a car in from Canada (Canadian title)that is the trick. I bought a truck in MI and traveled with a small car to get it. I bought Temp plates in MI and rented a Uhaul dolly and towed the car home thru Canada with the Truck. I called both Customs and Uhaul and verified that I would not have a problem.

I would not start up the engine again. Each time you do you are causing more damage with metal particles in the oil.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.