I have a 1984 300 D for sale. I'm located in central Missouri.
I will not arrange any shipping/delivery. It will need to be towed away by the buyer.
There's a lot right and several things wrong about this car. To ensure no misrepresentation I'll bullet the wrong first.
- Floor Pan RUSTED THROUGH at bend between floor and outer wall - both sides of the back passenger area. This actually crosses the pillar on the driver's side. I'm not clear on the source of the leak that caused it, and just discovered it this summer. It was the "final straw".
- Bad u-joint with typical vibration over 35 mph - one was poorly replaced by someone who then psyched me into looking at other possible causes of the vibration. Low and behold after a month of mild city driving to work (out of necessity) I pull the driveshaft myself to find that the new u-joint has developed a detent due to improper reassembly - non-aligned splines.
- probably master cylinder seal failure - or something else, you diagnose: I parked the car for several months during which fluid seeped out to make a fairly large spot on the ground below. Tranny and brake both look fine in reservoir. I drove it prior to trying to sell it elsewhere and discover the brake pedal is gone but the brakes still function with effort.
- I clobbered a deer several years ago - it now has a different colored, ill-fitted hood and a well replaced radiator mount, both from a parts car that I've since sold.
- Actual mileage unknown: I bought it just under 140k in 2001 or so, and the odometer started malfunctioning a few years ago at around 188k - it logged miles if it was cold enough. Odometer now reads in the 190k's, but actual mileage is more likely 220k +/-
- Tires are worn to the outside as well as "ballooning" - this isn't severe, but for a person who'd want to drive the car in the future (instead of parting it out) it would be best to replace a couple at the least.
Those are the reasons I consider having a junk-car buyer haul it away.
Here are the reasons I offer it here instead:
- The engine runs strong. Its had valve adjustments twice a year, regular oil changes with synthetic oil. It doesn't sound perfect, and does seep oil like most of these cars.
- New CVJ half-axles installed with less than probably 300 miles on them. I almost sold the car when one of the previous axles blew rather than buying new ones, but that strong engine and my need for wheels inspired me to replace them. I replaced the axles about 10 years ago with CVJ rebuilds - here is my testimony: they last for 10 years!
- Some new drivetrain parts - Lemferder when possible, Meyle when not - Flexdiscs, transmission mount, carrier bearing and mount - I was installing these when I discovered the u-joint had failed (again) and left them on.
- New KYB shocks - warranty replacements - probably 200 miles on them
- Passed inspection back in July before u-joint calamity was discovered - all other check points check out EXCEPT FOR THE BRAKE ISSUE WHICH IS NEW.
- Comes with un-installed set of Meyle subframe mounts - there is a sound that persisted in the back at just the right condition and I thought it might be subframe related. Current mounts looking dry/crackled but intact.
- Working AC - new Behr condenser (2015), new receiver/drier, new expansion valve, holding R12 and cooling well. The ACC electronics just started giving me trouble when the other issues led me to park it. Blower motor replaced in 2015.
- Muffler replaced in 2014.
So, that basically sums it up. I was driving it regularly up until the summer. It could be brought back to life with a balanced driveshaft and brake eval/repair, or parted out as much of the car is in good shape. The rust in the floorpan is what stopped me from going further - if you have welding skills you may be able to make a patch. I called a fabricator but didn't follow through with taking it there for an estimate.
$800 o.b.o
02-12-2017, 11:05 AM
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