FS: Cruise Control Amplifiers (Repaired)

JamesDean · #1 04-01-2012, 06:47 PM

Hello everyone,

As some of you may or may not know, I've recently gotten into repairing cruise control amplifiers.

I've gathered a small stock of units here that I'm looking to sell.

If your unit is not on the list below, send me a PM.
I could always repair the one that you have for the same cost.

These units have been repaired. I've replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, tested the units both in my testing setup as well as on the road in my 190E or 420SEL. The units have had a polyurethane coating applied to the front and back to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion/oxidation.

I'm asking $50 for each unit, plus $6 for USPS shipping.

I've had a 100% success rate with repairing these units. I've recently completed a repair for fellow members 79Mercy, MaineCedes, and shertex.

I have pictures as well as video of the each unit I've repaired.

Before you go and replace the amplifier you should test your actuator and ensure that its not drawing too much current. PM me if you have a question about this.

I currently have the following available:
(1 Available) 003 545 09 32
107.048 560SL
124.026 300E 2.6
124.028 300E 2.8
124.030 300E
201.028 190E 2.3
201.024 190E 2.3
201.034 190E 2.3-16

(4 Available) 005 545 05 32:
IMPORTANT SEE NOT AT BOTTOM
124.026 300E 2.6
124.030 300E 3.0
124.050 300CE
124.090 300TE
124.133 300D
124.193 300TD
126.024 300SE
126.025 300SEL
126.035 420SEL
126.037 500SEL
126.039 560SEL
126.044 500SEC
126.045 560SEC
126.134 350SDL
126.135 350SDL
140.134 300SD / S350
201.028 190E 2.3
201.029 190E 2.6
201.034 190E 2.3-16
201.126 190D 2.5

Note: The 005 unit, has a plug that is on the back of it that is matched to a set of specific chassis so you'll either need to have your original plug or perhaps I have on here that will work.

shertex · #2 04-01-2012, 07:12 PM

Just to put in a plug for JamesDean....he's struck me as being very competent and professional and very thorough and prompt in all his communication. I had been in the habit of picking up working used cruise units on Ebay when I needed them. Not anymore. To get an amp rebuilt for $50 by an electrical engineer and have it bench tested is just a great deal.

MaineCedes · #3 04-01-2012, 08:40 PM

Plug from MaineCedes here as well. I am eagerly awaiting my amp back in the mail tomorrow. That will make it exactly a one week turnaround from the time I sent it. Unbelievable.

I have tested my actuator per JamesDeans instructions, it tests out, and I am very excited to have a fully functioning unit back on my wagon tomorrow evening. I will update this post with how I make out, and hope this solves the problem...

strelnik · #4 04-01-2012, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Hello everyone,

As some of you may or may not know, I've recently gotten into repairing cruise control amplifiers.

I've gathered a small stock of units here that I'm looking to sell.

If your unit is not on the list below, send me a PM.
I could always repair the one that you have for the same cost.

These units have been repaired. I've replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, tested the units both in my testing setup as well as on the road in my 190E or 420SEL. The units have had a polyurethane coating applied to the front and back to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion/oxidation.

I'm asking $50 for each unit, plus $6 for USPS shipping.

I've had a 100% success rate with repairing these units. I've recently completed a repair for fellow members 79Mercy, MaineCedes, and shertex.

I have pictures as well as video of the each unit I've repaired.

Before you go and replace the amplifier you should test your actuator and ensure that its not drawing too much current. PM me if you have a question about this.

I currently have the following available:
(1 Available) 003 545 09 32
107.048 560SL
124.026 300E 2.6
124.028 300E 2.8
124.030 300E
201.028 190E 2.3
201.024 190E 2.3
201.034 190E 2.3-16

(5 Available) 005 545 05 32:
124.026 300E 2.6
124.030 300E 3.0
124.050 300CE
124.090 300TE
124.133 300D
124.193 300TD
126.024 300SE
126.025 300SEL
126.035 420SEL
126.037 500SEL
126.039 560SEL
126.044 500SEC
126.045 560SEC
126.134 350SDL
126.135 350SDL
140.134 300SD / S350
201.028 190E 2.3
201.029 190E 2.6
201.034 190E 2.3-16
201.126 190D 2.5

Note: The 005 unit, has a plug that is on the back of it that is matched to a set of specific chassis so you'll either need to have your original plug or perhaps I have on here that will work.

Too bad you don't have any for W123 cars. I'd remove mine, following your instructions and send it to you for a rebuild, if you would consider that.

colincoon · #5 04-01-2012, 11:04 PM

^Same.

JamesDean · #6 04-01-2012, 11:11 PM

Drop me a PM or email me. I've not worked on the pre-1981 10-pin units but Im willing to give it a shot. The 14-pin units are post-1981 and I've done work on those for the early 126s.

79Mercy · #7 04-01-2012, 11:14 PM

Jamesdean did an excellent job rebuilding my cruise amp in my 85 300D, its been working great for about 2 weeks now, i use it about everyday. Very highly recommended by me, dont hesitate to let him repair your amp!

JamesDean · #8 04-02-2012, 07:35 AM

Thanks for the kind words everyone!

I'm contemplating offering a protection device that would help prevent the amplifiers from seeing an over current or over-voltage draw problem and burning out.

My original idea was to just buy Mercedes harness bits and then assemble them with my safety components all wired in. It would just be like an extension cord for the actuator.

The piece would contain a fuse to protect from an over-current condition, should the actuator go south. I would possibly add over-voltage protection as well. I believe thats already implemented on the amplifier board so it might not be necessary.

My only problem is that Mercedes want near $30 just in the parts for making a suitable connector!

shertex · #9 04-02-2012, 07:45 AM

I wonder how common the problem is. I know it happened to me, but from my conversations with GDL my understanding is that it's somewhat rare. It would be nice, though, with your proposed protection in place to know for certain that an amp's death was not caused by the actuator.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Thanks for the kind words everyone!

I'm contemplating offering a protection device that would help prevent the amplifiers from seeing an over current or over-voltage draw problem and burning out.

My original idea was to just buy Mercedes harness bits and then assemble them with my safety components all wired in. It would just be like an extension cord for the actuator.

The piece would contain a fuse to protect from an over-current condition, should the actuator go south. I would possibly add over-voltage protection as well. I believe thats already implemented on the amplifier board so it might not be necessary.

My only problem is that Mercedes want near $30 just in the parts for making a suitable connector!

JamesDean · #10 04-02-2012, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

I wonder how common the problem is. I know it happened to me, but from my conversations with GDL my understanding is that it's somewhat rare. It would be nice, though, with your proposed protection in place to know for certain that an amp's death was not caused by the actuator.

Yes, thats what I gather as well. I believe you're the first I've heard. I was discussing this with a friend of mine and we gathered that there are two ways (mostly) that the output transistors could fail.

1) over-current condition caused by ailing motor in the actuator. Protection solution would be to install a fuse.

2) over-voltage caused by inductive kickback. Protection solution is to install diodes. I'm fairly certain this is already done on the board itself.

I emailed GDL asking about fusing the actuator and what they'd recommend for a fuse rating. I think once I hear back, I'd simply recommend to everyone that they install simple inline fuse on one of the wires going to the motor inside the actuator. I'd love to offer something plug and play but that's going to be pricey.

I mean it would be far cheaper to just send me the actuator and I'd install the fuse than to buy the Mercedes parts and make a small harness. It was $30+$12 shipping just for one set of parts, not even including wires, tubing or any of the fuse hardware.

Graplr · #11 04-02-2012, 10:16 AM

JamesDean,
Do you know how to test the older style "barrel" type actuators? My 79 300TD has been a garage queen since getting it last fall as I am doing some work to get it ready for summer driving. I am assuming my cruise does not work since the actuator was disengaged from the linkage AND disconnected going into it.

I do have a CC amp and a "barrel" from my old 116 but I can't recall if it was in working order or not!

If neither are working, I'd be a guinea pig for the older CC amps for you (assuming one of my actuators work).

JamesDean · #12 04-02-2012, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graplr

JamesDean,
Do you know how to test the older style "barrel" type actuators? My 79 300TD has been a garage queen since getting it last fall as I am doing some work to get it ready for summer driving. I am assuming my cruise does not work since the actuator was disengaged from the linkage AND disconnected going into it.

I do have a CC amp and a "barrel" from my old 116 but I can't recall if it was in working order or not!

If neither are working, I'd be a guinea pig for the older CC amps for you (assuming one of my actuators work).

I'm afraid I've never even seen the pre-81 type ones. My oldest benz is 82. I'd be interested though, if you like me to take a look at it, I'd be happy to.

At the least I could go through and replace the aged capacitors and retouch the solder points. Unfortunately I'd have no way of test the unit, other than sending it back to you and having you install it. Let me know what you decide.

ScooterABC · #13 04-02-2012, 12:40 PM

I could sure use one for my 1985 300TD. It works sometimes. It's abrupt sometimes, and sometimes it does nothing... Can you do one of those?

thanks
Scott

JamesDean · #14 04-02-2012, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScooterABC

I could sure use one for my 1985 300TD. It works sometimes. It's abrupt sometimes, and sometimes it does nothing... Can you do one of those?

thanks
Scott

Scott,

If you'd like, you can send me the unit and I can give it a try. Most often, the capacitors in these old units dry up and cause all kind of sporadic behaviors.

-Kris

Chadahar · #15 04-03-2012, 06:52 PM

Interested in a couple 126 Amplifiers or having mine fixed.

Interested in knowing how to test the actuator. My Euro 1986 500SEC has a bad one. How did I find out? there was a clacking noise under the hood and I thought it was a Lifter or compensator, I got the stethoscope out and had a listen. the clacking was faint at the valve cover or at the exhaust outlets, so I started over to the other side. didn't get there. I just plunked the probe onto the Alternator and heard the clacking, but very faint. Just on a whim I touched the probe to the actuator and the noise was deafening. I unplugged the Actuator and the noise was gone.
My question, how did that actuator get actuated and begin making noise, the cruise was not on. Must have shorted out or???

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