116 parts for sale all parts are here 2 cars are compleat all parts are there let me know what you need and ill give info on part. I am in so. cal 92585 these cars are late 70s

parting these out good parts inside and out

What color and condition is the rear seat?

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• 2001 E320

blue int

can send pics if needed

1. Main vacuum line, from vac pump to brake booster (large, black hard plastic hose,with metal threaded fitting at each end and a check valve 'saucer' near the brake booster)

2. the main bolt that holds the inboard end of the upper control arm to the frame (19mm bolt head, about 3 inches long, found in the engine compartment)

3. the large bolt (24 mm bolt head) that holds the upper control arm to the sway bar (torsion bar?) under the fender, plus the threaded nut-thingy that is held to the sway bar by two 10mm bolts and a 8mm allen hex head bolt that locks the large bolt in place

4. headlight surrounds (clear plastic)

5. Automatic climate control push button panel (if it's in good shape!)

6. transmission shifter linkage, including the shift selector handle inside the car and the connecting rod

7. plastic cap, with vacuum hose attachment port, that clips onto the trans vac shift modulator, found on the passenger side of the transmission

8. left front bumper rubber guard, large squarish protruding thing

edblock@earthlink.net

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1978 300SD 149K miles silver-blue "Maxine" (mine!)
1979 300SD 318K miles red "Helga" (SOLD)
1980 300SD 321K miles yellow "Linda" (younger daughter's)
1980 300SD 148K miles blue (SOLD)
1980 300SD 153K miles green(parts car, SOLD)
Yes, I have a W116 fetish :-)

Edblock, wow you must love those 116 a lot. I just bought a black 1980SD with only 45k miles on the engine, but the car has few problem that need to be fix. Can I get your advice on how to get it fix right and at a reasonable price. First the heater and ac inop. AC servo will cost me $500 from George Murphy new internal parts and aluminum body. Rebuild internal with aluminum body cost $330 at most venders. Should I spend the money and get the $500 or is the $330 good enough. Some people on this board reporting leaks on the rebuild internal servo. With this price tag I want to make the right choice. Any idea I can get these part for cheaper. Thanks

HI i like all these cars being forced to get some out or i would keep them all and fix them in time to spread out the cost mybe you might want to buy one of these servos i have that work for 50 and make sure every thing else is working well i dont have any alum right now but these are in good working order

Thanks Rob

Lue,
I also have heard that people have problems with rebuilt units. I purchased one two years ago with aluminum body and so far have not had a problem. I paid $280 I think. I got it from http://www.nicksmotors.com/

I also suggest that if you are going to the trouble and expense to replace the servo, you should replace the ACC amplifier as well. That will cost about $90. A bad amplifier can ruin a new servo. Be sure also that the aux water pump is working--if it shorts, it can blow the amp! Many people put a 5 amp or smaller fuse in the power line to the aux pump, so that it will protect the amp from power surge if the pump freezes up.

Since you have been in contact with George Murphy already, ask him about his climate control troubleshooting guide. I think he will mail it to you for a $5 fee. it contains info that was invaluable to me in diagnosing my auto climate control system.

Good luck, and may your 116 roll on!

__________________
1978 300SD 149K miles silver-blue "Maxine" (mine!)
1979 300SD 318K miles red "Helga" (SOLD)
1980 300SD 321K miles yellow "Linda" (younger daughter's)
1980 300SD 148K miles blue (SOLD)
1980 300SD 153K miles green(parts car, SOLD)
Yes, I have a W116 fetish :-)

Robmai, is this the original servo which came with the car? If is not aluminum I would prefer one that has been been recently install on the car. Let me know how old is it?

Edblock, is there any way you can test the AMP and the aux water pump?

Lue,

the aux water pump is easy: unplug the wire and jumper it over to the battery. If it spins, you'll hear it. If not, it's probably shot. The seals can leak and allow water/coolant into the electric motor windings.

The amp is a little more difficult. The Automatic Climate Control (ACC) amp is one link of a resistance "chain". It compares resistance values of the incoming air temp sensor (under the hood, on the firewall next to the servo,) the in-cabin air sensor (that little grille on the top center of your dash,) the resistor in the servo (which indicates the position and therefore how much the valve is open) and the temperature adjustment wheel on the control panel. It attempts to balance these resistance values against a constant, by opening or closing the servo valve to allow more or less heated coolant through the heater core. It also affects the speed of the blower motor fan.

I have heard of people removing the amp (it is screwed to the firewall inside the car, behind the glove box) and replacing burnt-looking resistors and re-soldering all connections with some success, but the best way to test it is to replace it with a known good one. Again, George Murphy has some excellent troubleshooting info that will help you determine which parts have failed.

You can put a used servo on your car and maybe get it to work for a while, but if the ACC amp is fried you will still have problems and you could burn up the replacement servo.

I have also heard of people just by-passing the whole deal and installing a manual lever to control the heat. My opinion is this: if you are going to the trouble and expense to make the ACC system work as designed, then do it right--determine which parts are bad and replace them with the best you can afford.

__________________
1978 300SD 149K miles silver-blue "Maxine" (mine!)
1979 300SD 318K miles red "Helga" (SOLD)
1980 300SD 321K miles yellow "Linda" (younger daughter's)
1980 300SD 148K miles blue (SOLD)
1980 300SD 153K miles green(parts car, SOLD)
Yes, I have a W116 fetish :-)

Hi i am not sure of the age but ac is working wright now i mean i was in the car taking parts 3 hours ago like around 4pm 1/16/03 and it was blowing cold out of all vents and compressor was working great and when i pushed the button to turn it on there was no delay i hpoe iam explaining this right i just started with these cars about a year and now iam hooked

Thanks Rob

Thanks Edblock, I will checking with you for more help latter on when I start working on the car. I love to talk to people who own and know their car.

Rob, does the heater work also? Is there any leak around the acc servo?