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  #1  
Old 09-03-2004, 06:31 PM
Automotive Restoration
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Steamboat Springs, CO
Posts: 186
ML jacking points (oil change)

Since I don't have service info yet, where are the best places to jack the car using a floor jack, and then where to support with stands?

All the info in the forum looks clear on the oil change scenario - just want to check, is the filter supposed to be a paper cylinder that goes in a reusable metal cannister? The one I got here from NAPA is this way, just the paper insert.

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  #2  
Old 09-03-2004, 08:10 PM
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Location: In the fog
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The filter is an insert. Do yourself a huge, HUGE favor and get a device called a Topsider. The ML makes a god-awful mess when you drain the oil from the pan. It will soak the front tire and a lot of the suspension, your floor, your clothing and irritate you to new levels or ire. You have been warned......
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  #3  
Old 09-03-2004, 08:19 PM
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Location: St. Louis area
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oil change

I agree that the oil change can make a huge mess. But, there is a way to drain the oil and do it relatively cleanly. I cut a plastic milk bottle into a funnel, leaving 3 tall sides and one lower side to allow the oil to enter from the drain plug. Since its plastic, you can squeeze the funnel to get it into position above the suspension. Then, get whatever you catch the oil in up high close to the funnel. It's a bit of a trick, but I did it with very little splashing out. Make sure there is plenty of capacity in the oil pan. Most vehicles don't hold anywhere near the 9 quarts that the ML does.
Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 09-03-2004, 09:42 PM
Automotive Restoration
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Steamboat Springs, CO
Posts: 186
On that Topsider, which I've seen discussed here in other threads, where can you get one - any auto parts stores? What length does the tube need to be to reach the ML oil pan?

Thanks guys!
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  #5  
Old 09-03-2004, 10:21 PM
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98 ML320
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: North Shore, IL
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With 9 quarts of synthetic oil, cost of filter, the cost of parts alone will add up to probably 50 bucks. Dealer only charges $75 or so to do the job, why sweat yourself on this? Plus you get a nice washed car when the job is done. Plus, there isn't much satisfaction out of an oil change anyway.
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  #6  
Old 09-04-2004, 10:42 AM
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I don't know which is more trouble on the end-of-job cleanup but, a third option exists for less messy ML oil changes. In addition to the Topsider and plastic funnel suggestions, the Sure Drain offered by Fram at many automotive supply outlets is easy to use.
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  #7  
Old 09-04-2004, 10:44 AM
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Location: North Charleston, SC
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I also used an oil extractor (you can purchase one at a marine supply store) but wasn’t confident that it removed all the old oil from the engine.

Now I use the drain plug and a homemade cardboard diverter. I cut a small piece of cardboard to fit over the sway bar (I think) and it funnels it into the catch pan.

PS You don't need to jack it up to change the oil.
PSS My dealer charged me 150 for an oil change when they did my consumption test

Nick
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  #8  
Old 09-06-2004, 07:53 PM
Automotive Restoration
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Steamboat Springs, CO
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Since we're 3 hours away from the nearest dealer, that's not an option for me. I have used Grease Monkey here locally, but I'm trying to learn more about the cars and teach my son as well - that's why I'd like to DIY.

Nick - It sures looks like I I need to jack the car up, maybe because I have the sidesteps? It'll be real tight otherwise.
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2004, 08:16 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: St. Louis area
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Go Ahead, DIY!

Fema, you know what you're getting into from the discussion... The whole problem is that MB put the drain plug on the side of the oil pan. The best way to avoid the issue is to suck the oil out (with TopSider or another product). Or, make the home-made funnel like I did. It's not perfect but it works pretty good and makes the oil change cost less than $50. (if you buy the filter kit online (not the dealer). Good luck.
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2004, 11:58 AM
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Location: In the fog
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Northern tool sells a variety of oil extraction devices

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/NTESearch?storeId=6970&catalogId=4006970&langId=-1&PHOTOS=on&KEYWORDS=oil+change&kw_fmt=oil+change

The topsider is about $40. It is probably the most often used tool in the garage (we have 6 engines requiring regular oil changes)
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  #11  
Old 09-16-2004, 09:40 PM
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Location: St. Louis area
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Topsider capacity?

One thing I notice with the topsider is that the capacity is listed at 2 gallons. The ML holds at least a half quart more. I know this is just a half quart, but what do you do? Stop the process (hopefully without spilling oil) and then transfer some of the oil, and then begin again? Anybody actually use this for an ML?
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  #12  
Old 09-17-2004, 01:35 AM
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Actually that is a minor weakness in the design. I generally pump about 20-30 times and then let it work. Come back later and the vacuum is gone and about half the oil is drawn out of the pan and into the topsider. Empty the topsider, put the cap on and pump another 20-30 times. It takes 2-3 reps of this, but I always add another cycle after getting the gurgling noises off of the bottom of the pan. Never had a problem with spillage.

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