ML320 '99 Engine failure at 77,000 miles - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TROVERMAN · #31 11-29-2004, 11:02 AM

Standard engine oil left in block for too long=premature engine wear=rod breakage. I wouldn't care at all what they say--IF THE CAR HAS BEEN MAINTAINED BY THE RECOMMENDED SCHEDULE (AND AT THE DEALER!!) AND THE ENGINE IS JUNK BECAUSE OF ROD FAILURE AT 77,000 MILES THAN MERCEDES' 3.2 V6 IS JUNK AND THEY BETTER DARN WELL REPLACE THAT ENGINE FREE OF CHARGE FOR YOU. You need to fight this. If everything you say regarding maintenance is correct, there is NO WAY an engine should be no good at 77k. That is just rediculous. Kias and Hyundais have 10 year-100k powertrain warranty. Buy a Kia BRAND NEW for $8,000 and if a rod broke in the engine when it had 77,000 miles on it, Kia Motor Company would GIVE and INSTALL a BRAND-NEW engine FREE of CHARGE! We're talking a Mercedes-Benz here! A $40,000+ vehicle!

Unfortunately, they may have a loophole somewhere, and the amount you might have to spend legally, you might be better off cutting your losses, and just say "I'll never own another Mercedes-Benz product again."

They are great cars in many respects but this is rediculous.

Good Luck

JimF · #32 11-29-2004, 12:52 PM

done this yet, make sure to get a copy of your service records from the dealer before they mysteriously disappear or get misplaced. Go get'em and take a big bite!

tt33 · #33 11-30-2004, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kuan

I can't see the broken conrod. How did it "break' did they say? I've never heard of a connecting rod break. I'll believe it only if the mains are intact and the rod shows signs of fatigue. Can you bust open the oil pan and check?

Edit: Where's the blooming truck parked anyway? Feldmans, Sears, or Maplewood?

Well, they did not explain how and why it broke. They opened the engine without my presence, and the MB rep arrived to check why it failed. They are replacing the engine at the moment at Maplewood Imports, MN. I submitted all records of oil change to the lawyer and he will be moving forward with the case to get reimbursement from the MB.

Kuan · #34 12-03-2004, 10:17 PM

I tell you, it's rare that a rod breaks just like that. Typical is bearings go first, then the rod goes, then junk migrates allover your engine.

tt33 · #35 12-06-2004, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimF

done this yet, make sure to get a copy of your service records from the dealer before they mysteriously disappear or get misplaced. Go get'em and take a big bite!

JimF,

It's funny, but the dealership where I changed oil in PA from 1999 to 2001 has completely burnt out!

Luckily, it happened just a week after we called them and requested records for MB, so I got a copy of these records.

tt33 · #36 12-06-2004, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TROVERMAN

Standard engine oil left in block for too long=premature engine wear=rod breakage. I wouldn't care at all what they say--IF THE CAR HAS BEEN MAINTAINED BY THE RECOMMENDED SCHEDULE (AND AT THE DEALER!!) AND THE ENGINE IS JUNK BECAUSE OF ROD FAILURE AT 77,000 MILES THAN MERCEDES' 3.2 V6 IS JUNK AND THEY BETTER DARN WELL REPLACE THAT ENGINE FREE OF CHARGE FOR YOU. You need to fight this.

We are trying to fight this, and the laywer is preparing all materials. Meanwhile, the Maplewood Imports dealership has replaced the engine and called me last Thursday to pickup the truck. I drove it back home and noticed the following:
1. acceleration hesitation - could not accelerate and drive more than 60mph.
2. parking brakes are too loose
3. They broke a plastic base that fixes the hood stick
4. Plastic on the top of the engine is loose
5. When I drove home, it seemed to me that the the ride was too noisy, but the noise was not coming from from the engine. It looked like the noise is coming from the tires.
6. and finally, I noticed a half of cup of fresh oil on my garage floor under the engine next day, so I brought the truck back to the dealer.

Any suggestions on what I should check when I get the truck back from the engine replacement? Thanks!!

JimF · #37 12-06-2004, 03:11 PM

the truck's records BEFORE it "burnt out". I take it that it the old place "burned down"???

From your latest post, sounds like it's going to be a 'long-road'. No acceleration??? Leaking oil??? Sorry to hear that.

How about a new "truck"???

TROVERMAN · #38 12-06-2004, 05:09 PM

1. Can't drive more than 60mph: I take it with the accelerator floored it won't go past 60? Or will it not change up to a higher gear and so the RPM's climb very high in the same gear?
Is Check Engine on? It could be some type of "limp home" engine mgt. mode.
Is the computer replaced with the new engine? If the old computer was simply reprogrammed the new engine may not be compatible for security issues. On my 95 Range Rover the engine mgt system communicates with the engine 4,000 times / second to ensure the computer is not stolen? Your ML may have some type of similar issue.
2. Parking Brakes are too loose. On my E320 wagon, there is a drum-style brake on each rear wheel. I assume this is the way it is on the ML. I can't remember the interior of an ML enough-does it have the "Euro Style" console mounted e-brake? Or is it on the floor as a foot pedal? Usually, the solution to this is simply an adjustment. I don't understand why anything would be changed here while changing the engine, though.
3. Hood Stick. Not sure of what you mean, here. Are you saying the ML has a prop-rod which holds the hood up when its open? On the E320 there are springs which do this, plus a function for the hood to be opened vertically straight up. If it is a prop rod you're referring to, and they broke the clip holder, they need to replace it free. Fine before--dealer breaks it--they replace it.
4. The plastic on top of the engine is the engine cover, correct? Usually these just snap on or screw on (The E320 has none except a small piece at the front of the engine with the MB logo on it) See if you can fix it yourself first; if not, make the dealer do it.
5. Ride noise. Not really sure here how this could be related to an engine change, unless the tires were removed and put back on. Check and make sure your lugs are tight and your air pressures are correct.
6. The oil is absolutely a cause for concern. New seals leak oil? Did you recieve a completely new engine or did they simply replace the broken parts? I would make the dealer get it 100% right for the money involved here.

tt33 · #39 12-07-2004, 06:19 PM

>> 1. Can't drive more than 60mph: I take it with the accelerator floored it won't go past 60? Or will it not change up to a higher gear and so the RPM's climb very high in the same gear? Is Check Engine on? It could be some type of "limp home" engine mgt. mode <<
It changes to a higher gear, but it is not accelerating much above 60mph. Check engine light is off.

>> Is the computer replaced with the new engine? If the old computer was simply reprogrammed the new engine may not be compatible for security issues. On my 95 Range Rover the engine mgt system communicates with the engine 4,000 times / second to ensure the computer is not stolen? Your ML may have some type of similar issue.<<
According to records, the computer was not replaced. How do I check if the engine is compatible with the computer?

>> 2. Parking Brakes are too loose. On my E320 wagon, there is a drum-style brake on each rear wheel. I assume this is the way it is on the ML. I can't remember the interior of an ML enough-does it have the "Euro Style" console mounted e-brake? Or is it on the floor as a foot pedal? Usually, the solution to this is simply an adjustment. I don't understand why anything would be changed here while changing the engine, though.<<
It is a foot pedal, and I do not know if it was affected by the engine replacement.

>> 3-4-5. Ok

>> 6. The oil is absolutely a cause for concern. New seals leak oil? Did you recieve a completely new engine or did they simply replace the broken parts? I would make the dealer get it 100% right for the money involved here<<
They said they replaced the engine, however the records I have show that they replaced parts. Talked to the manager and he said that the whole engine was replaced... How do I verify that? It has a new number that is different from the previous one. The leak was on the left front side of the engine if you look from the driver's seat.

The manager called today and said they did not find anything wrong and it was just a residual oil leakage. I think I have to call to MB directly about this.

TROVERMAN · #40 12-08-2004, 11:04 AM

Tell MB to tighten the parking brake so it can hold the truck on a hill easily. One other thing I thought of as to the 60-MPH limit is the throttle cable, which would have to be disconnected during engine replacement. Do you have to push harder on the gas than usual (give it more throttle than usual) to accelerate? It may just be a case of a loose throttle cable.
It is important to find out if there is an entirely "new" engine under the hood or if the old one was simply "rebuilt." This should change the cost of the repair significantly. IF its a whole new engine, the engine serial number stamped on the block somewhere will be different. Other members will have to advise here as to where the SN is located on the block and how to find out the original. On to the oil situation. Is the vehicle continually leaking oil? Did you find more, new oil leaked on the ground. If you go somewhere in the ML, find a clean parking space, then check under the vehicle as you leave to see if it is continually depositing oil. Residual oil may be a possibility here, but if it doesn't go away in a couple of days MB needs to correct it as there could be a seal problem somewhere. If you are mechanically inclined at all you could actually crawl under the ML and do some checking for yourself as to exactly where the oil is leaking. Find the source, wipe it down, and check again after a drive. Then you can TELL MB exactly what is leaking where and that they need to fix it. With the money involved here and the actual situation that occurred I would want it to be perfect.

Good Luck

tt33 · #41 12-10-2004, 01:47 PM

Update: Got my ML320 yesterday. The manager at the dealership assured me that nothing was wrong and it they couldnot find any leakage. He also said that it could be a residual oil issue. They cleaned up the engine and whole truck like I've never seen it before. The manager also gave me printouts of the new engine and the broken rod, so I will scan and post them soon. However, after driving about 10 miles the same day, I found the oil leakage again at the same place. I took a few pictures with my digital camera and placed them here:

Photos of Oil Leakage Spots

I also added comments where I see the oil spots. Could you comment on this please? Where is the oil coming from? There are too many spots but the general area is shown on the last photo.

Thanks....

tt33 · #42 12-10-2004, 04:39 PM

I added another photo of the leakage. Drove 10 miles and stopped on the dry surface in front of my garage. See the oil puddle here.

Looks like the oils is spreading under pressure - any comments?

RickT · #43 12-10-2004, 05:39 PM

Take your ML to an independent dealer and ask them to completely inspect the engine. Find one that will allow you to observe and is willing to point things out as they go. You need to get these problems clearly documented. Then, go and file a formal complaint with the appropriate state governmental agency that regulates automotive repair shops. See if they are interested in using your case to investigate the dealer by inspecting your vehicle and then sending to the dealer to see what they say.

Then, after you have as much documentation as possible, go back to the dealer. In my experience, I clearly found cases of what appeared to fraud by my dealer. I took pictures of defective parts before going to the dealer. They said that they replaced those parts. Then, when I picked-up the vehicle the supposed "new" parts had the EXACT same markings (including the defects for which they were supposed to be replaced).

This may be time consuming, but you are talking about 10s of thousands in engine repair that may need to be redone.

tt33 · #44 12-10-2004, 05:57 PM

Rick,

I think I can do that, however what would be the "appropriate state governmental agency that regulates automotive repair shops"? I think my dealer is simply not capable of solving this problem with the leakage. I called MB regional manager and they told me that now MB will contact the dealer directly and MB regional manager will not call me back, so I guess I will hear from the dealer again.

tt33 · #45 12-23-2004, 04:26 PM

Ok, finally the dealer fixed the leaking cooland problem after they changed the engine (I had to visit an independent car repair shop and they found leakage immediately after connecting a pressure monitor to the coolant system. I brought their estimate to replace the coolant pipe so MB did that).

Now, it's getting quite cold outside: -8F in MN. The Check Engine light went on so I brought the truck again to the dealership. They checked it and called me that the engine is fine, but probably a "purge control" is faulty. Why probably? They said they need to remove it to make sure. Cost $260.00 to replace it. I have no trust in them, so can anybody explain what the purcge control is and is it dangerous to drive if it fails? The Check engine light disapperared when the weather was quite warm

(20-26F), but it is lit again.