The tech's and I discussed this. Basically, even a small leak shouldn't cause the pedal to go too far all at once. They really focused on if the pedal "sank" after the initial bottom out position. They thought they would look closer at the brake booster if the problem persists. I have not pursued it since stopping power has remained good.

about the brake problem. Let me relate my experience. I had an 00 430 that I traded in on Dec. 04 for an 05 500SE. I noticed that the brake pedal travel on the 05 was greater than the 00, but it was solid, didn't bleed down and I could get the toe of my high tops under it barely! I drove another 500 at the dealer and it was the same way. So, I decided that all ML's are not alike when it comes to brakes. Because they don't bleed down and you can't pump them up there is no problem. Having been a mechanic by trade early in my life, and still active on race cars I can say this with confidence!

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David L

dakat/Ron - that's good to know, thanks.

Ron - as far as a leak, the fluid level looked good last I checked. I did do the front pads about 3 mos. ago (my first time!), and sucked out and replaced some fluid as suggested by the forum. Perhaps it's a touch lower than before I changed the pads?

Doesn't sound like a need to worry, that's good, but I'll keep observing.

Thanks to all!

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

I have the low "pedal problem" on a nice 240D that I bought a couple week ago. I did the search and came up with this thread. Amazing forum here, The car has what looks like a new master cyl and booster. I replaced all four brake hoses, the front calipers and pads, rotors were OK as were the rear pads and rear calipers. Pressure bled the system twice. Pedal still travels down too far. I swapped out the master cyl from a parts car, power bled the system, pedal still low. I am fixing this car up for a friend so I gota get it right or I'll get it back.
I have had lots of 240Ds and all of them have had very little travel before you get brakes. this is still odd and I cant figure out the answer.

dakat....maybe all 240D brakes are NOT the same TOO

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I can add that after bleeding the brakes on my ML320, (a few weeks after changing the front pads) it took a few days but then suddenly the pedal felt "harder" to the touch and less travel noticed. I don't understand why it took a few days after bleeding - I did get some airbubbles out of the first line, and then of course all the old dirty fluid. Would have thought the feel to be restored right away, but just glad it got better. I did have it at the dealer before the feel got better, and the tech didn't think it was bad even though you could push it close to the floor with heavy pressure.

Hopefully someone with more knowledge can help you here - good luck!

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

To follow up on an earlier post on this thread. After having put a little over 3000 miles on my new 05 ML500SE I noticed the brake pedal now grabs sooner and slows the vehicle better. Now it feels like my 00 430 did as far as pedal height and effort. I have to believe it took that long to properly seat the pads on the rotors, thus producing better braking for a given pedal pressure. I don't use a lot of brakes and brake and release when stopping from high speed such as a free way offramp rather than one long application which would produce more heat. So, maybe it just takes that long to seat the big brakes on an ML 500. At any rate I'm happy with them now!

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David L

It's all about seating the brakes. On the ML's especially, you need to get them a little warm (keep driving and barely press the brakes without letting off the gas on the hwy for about 6 seconds) in order to make them respond as they should from then on. Try this and see if you note any improvement. Anyone know a cheap place to get air mass meters?

Chris Warner, Lt, USAF
AC-130 Pilot

"keep driving and barely press the brakes"

Chris

thanks, I'll try that and see what happens. I bought the rebuilt, loaded callipers that I usually buy for this job. The pedal is up enough so I can get the toe of my other foot under, so I guess its not too bad.

Cant help with the air mass meter, dont know what it is

Steve, Tugboat driver RT