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#16
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Quote:
Being obtuse again ! .
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[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ] "A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money." |
#17
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I think the reason why some people are keeping the original springs are because the Bilstein Rear Shocks don't come with any springs. The way to use them is to use the original shocks or buy a new pair of rear springs which would cost you $200!!! I have experimented with H & R rear springs, but the ride turned out to be really harsh and uncomfortable. One of the rear spring was broken, so I had to order an original shock/spring assembly and took the new spring off to use with my Bilsteins!!!
The best reason is that the Bilsteins Shocks are so much more superior as compared to the OEM Sachs shock absorber. The ride, with the Bilsteins, are so, so much better! They make the ride of my 2000 ML430 feel like my 2005 X5 3.0 I am so glad I did not get the cheaper solution of replacing them with the OEM units. If you can afford Bilsteins, and would not mind re-using the original springs, they are the BEST combination!!! If you are low on budget, then the OEM unit would suffice. Anyhow, I don't think the rear springs degrade with age, unless they are broken... all they do it suspend the vehicle, they do not loose their compressive strength over time that much... The shocks are the major thing that affect you ride... well, the spring rate is the other important thing, but you can't really change that unless you use a different spring, like the H & R springs. I think you made an excellent choice of using Bilsteins Shocks, I don't think you will regret it!!! |
#18
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Sunedog, thanks I will take a raincheck for that. On a second thought, you originally said you heard a "thunk", is it a metallic clunk sound? or a dull "thug"? If the swaybar bushing is bad, usually you will hear it squeek when you go over bumps, not "thunk". Before you go out and buy anything, at least jack up the rear end and check for any loose parts. The swaybar link has 2 rubber bushing sandwiched the swaybar, check to see if your mechanic put them back the way it supposed to. Again, I am no expert, just something to think about before you start replacing parts.
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98 ML320 (gone but not forgotten) |
#19
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yeah, better than obnoxious. I don't own MBs and pretend to be a VW expert. maybe the VW boys are treating you too rough there. People here are more civilized.
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98 ML320 (gone but not forgotten) |
#20
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Quote:
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I already jacked the truck up and made sure everything was tight. The mechanic didn't do the complete install. He just swapped the old springs onto the new shocks. I did the rest of the installation. I am confident I put the sway bar bushings back correctly. Since a new set of bushings is about $50 and mine have 165K miles on them, I don't mind replacing them as the next step. Oh -- dkveuro suggested having someone bounce the car while I listen at the wheel for noise. I wll try that first. Man I owe you guys. Someone needs to set up a paypal type site where you can buy beers over the web. |
#21
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Update -- Went to pick the truck up after the cat's were replaced and asked for a mechanic to listen to the sound. Actually two mechanics were a tremendous help. We could hear a fwap if I rocked the car (thanks dkveuro) and they were crawling all over the ground trying to isolate it. They finally pulled it into a bay at 10 minutes to closing time and pulled a wheel and inner fender. Two mechanics spent about half an hour with me and didn't write it up. I really appreciate their help.
Turns out the shocks are not properly mounted to the coil springs. I can't say I understand exactly what is wrong until I pull the shock/spring assemblies out this weekend. It is definitely not the top three 13mm nuts holding the shock assembly to the body. Evidently the mechanic that swapped the springs screwed up. The Mercedes mechanics pointed out what was loose when they had the truck on the lift with the inner fender pulled back. So the plan is to remove the shocks this weekend and determine what needs replaced. The left shock mount is toast. Don't know about the right. I'm hopeful the Bilstien's aren't damaged. Once I have them out, I'll be able to figure out if I just need to replace the shock mounts and properly fit and tighten them or if the Bilstien's are ruined as well. If they are, I'll definitely be looking for the best source for the shock/spring assembly. Anyone know the current best source for these? (Not Phil for this one. That's where I bought the Bilstien's. I believe he is only offering shocks without springs at this time.) I have a lot of work in front of me. I'll let you know what I find in a few days. Last edited by sunedog; 03-23-2006 at 08:36 PM. |
#22
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Glad you were able to figure out the source. You might get some of your money back from the original mechanic if you explain the problem and the trouble you've encountered.
I bet you can find the assemblies if you look hard enough. A google search should give you plenty of choices. Good luck !! |
#23
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The upper shock mount appears to be a separate item you can order see #14 in the link.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213951&chapter=ERI5768&appSectionid=2788&groupid=2523&subgroupid=2534&componentid=17502&make=67&model=M%20class&year=1998&graphicID=5768495&callout=13&catalogid=2
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98 ML320 (gone but not forgotten) |
#24
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Thanks, supradupe.
Ouch. $53 each. Funny, they call this part a "bearing bearing back." |
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