Starting problem with test results:
 

Ok, here it is:

Starting problem occurs as follows:

A) Only after sitting for several hours
B) The starter will turn and engine will crank over and over and sometimes will fire, but immediately shut down, and sometimes will not fire at all, but just keep turning.
C) The DAS light blinks when I insert and turn the key
D) After 3 attempts the car will start and run fine and start fine for the whole day.
E) The problem will repeat itself after sitting for a while.

So far I've changed the Crankshaft position sensor.
Is this the same thing as the camshaft position sensor ? excuse my ignorance

So what do you guys think?

Fuel pressure bleed-off??!! would hook-up guage & watch for complete bleed-off.

Thanks MBDOC - but I'm a little bit of a dunce when it comes to this - what do you mean by fuel pressure bleed off? Do you think I filled up with a bad tank of gas? Should I try fuel aditive/cleaner?

When the engine ISN'T running there is a residual pressure that the system must hold for the injectors to inject fuel when you try to start the engine.

Otherwise the fuel pump must be activated several times to re-build that pressure....fuel filter & pump have check valves to hold that residual pressure.

So, another diagnosis point:

When I turn the key to position 2 and then back to 0 and repeat it 3 times, the truck starts fine....

Each time you turn the key on the pump runs for a second to help re-build residual fuel pressure..again fuel bleed-off is the most likely problem...how old is the fuel filter?

They changed the fuel pump (and I believe associated filter assembley) in 2001 while still under warranty for the fuel gauge problem....

Should I ask them to just change the fuel filter alone?

Okay, so here were my symptoms: (someone please add this to a sticky somewhere - wolfgang you may want to add to your site:

A) The car would have a hard time starting when left off for more than a few hours.
B) I looked for the little red LED to flash (by the Low Range switch) when I turned the key
C) If I left the key in position 2 for more than 30 seconds, and then cranked, she would start right away.

What that simple procedure did was immediately rule out:

1. DAS (Driver authorization systems)
2. Battery
3. Crank Shaft Position sensor.

So the only thing left was the fuel delivery system.
As MBDOC and others pointed out - the most probable cause was the check valve integrated into the fuel filter unable to maintain fuel pressure after I leave the car off for several hours. When I turned the key to position 2 it activated the fuel pump and re pressurized the rails.
2 tankfuls of Techron DID not help....

So I went to my trusty dealer and of course because my ML is a 1999, I cannot just change the fuel filter. In 2001, when they changed my fuel sender, they put in the OLD system!!! I had to update the pump and the lines.
Total cost parts and labor was around $1030 - VERY reasonable in my opinion, and best of all SHE'S ALL FIXED!!!!! and STARTS LIKE A DREAM.

Here are some advantages of having done this fix:

A) She pulls VERY STRONGLY off the line, and there is ZERO delay in passing from 55mph to 90mph - just keeps PULLING AND PULLING
B) ANY hint of a slight rumble at idle after a hard run is GONE
C) Fuel economy is up.




Thanks everyone!

Starting my 1999 ML-320 needed a spare key
 

Thanks for this info. I didn't realize the red blinking light was also the DAS indicator. At any rate, my ML 320 ('99) wouldn't start the other day. I called AAA and they tried to charge my battery, to no avail. The battery was fully charged but the engine would not start after turning the key to position 3 and releasing. It would try to start and at times sounded like it did start but it never did. Then my dealer sent over the MB Road Side Assistance guy with his tools which included a modified Thinkpad that attached to a connector under the left cupholder. He said the problem was "not enough fuel was reaching the combustion chamber" for the truck to start. He used the Thinkpad to force stuff but he sadly told me his idea had failed and there is now no fuel in the lines to reach the engine. The truck ha s a full tank of gas (93 octane) with Chevron Techron HD added. There are 85,000 miles on this car. The fuel gauge is acting funny as well; it goes from F to E while I am driving on a full tank. Once reaching E it reverses SLOOOOWWWLY back to F, but never actually touching the F (a tad below). This was fixed back in 2001 by replacing sending units and lines..whatever those are. The fuel filter was recently (2/2006) changed and that cost over $500 since they had to change lines again and repressurize (according to invoice). I called the 1800for mercedes number and the dude told me to insert my key (at position 0) 5 times and then try to start...no go. He then told me to go from position 0 to 2 five times and then try to start...no go. The car was loaded on a flatbed and sent to the dealer. They asked me to go to the dealership with a spare key. It was after hours when I reached the dealership and I tried starting the car using the spare key (remoteless) and the key with the remote. The car STARTED! Apparently the electronic module doesn't allow the original key to start the car. Question..if the two 3 volt batteries were removed from the offending key..wouldn't it be just another remotless-spare key and the car should then start? I haven't tried that yet. At any rate...my phone calls and voicemails have yet to be answered as to the reviving of the offending key.

Question: Why did this happen and can a re-synch procedure fix the offending key?

Please help explain any of the items I discussed because I can't find the answer via Google.


Thanks in advance,

Chance
please cc cneale@panix.com as well.

do a search on DAS and key ring transponder on this forum.