Hi,

I noticed that Mobil1 15W-50 not approved anymore, only Mobil1 0W-40. The 15W-50 was previously approved and it is what I used all along.

Do someone know why it was taken off the approved list?

Thanks,

Rene

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'99 ML320, '00 C280

Quick question first. Can one use 5W - 30 Oil in a ML 320 or other benz?
As the 5W really is thicker oil, and the 30 above speaks (I think) durability, how long the oil will last, how often one would need to change oil etc

What if the vehicle or ML 320 has Km 120 000 and higher? surely for better compression one would want 5W instead of 0W, so as to have a better compression, less blow-by, etc.?

What are the risks of running 5W or Even 10 W in your new benz with low km?
Will the above void your warranty? (and the latter 10W only in summer months and the former 5W in cold winter months where the temp +5 and colder and not using a block heater at cold start-ups.)

Nope, the numbers refer to performance when cold (lower number) and performance when hot (upper number).

0W-40 is "thicker" than 5W-30, as most of the time your engine runs warmed up.

Realize that 5W-30 was invented as a fuel economy oil to help Detroit meet CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) standards. A thinner oil provides less internal engine friction and consequently less fuel consumption.

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

Forgive me but, I am not disagreeing with your post above, however, to clarify when you or someone else has a moment; Would you agree this is what the numbers represent:
The first number indicates Viscosity, thickness of the oil
0W is the thinnest oil available (which I believe is recommended or insisted upon)
5W is a bit thicker than above
10W is a bit thicker than above
etc.


Now the last number for each of the above Oil
0W - 40
5W - 30
10W - 30
What does it stand for?


Ps what if one uses a particular additive brand of oil eg Lucas oil additive.
Would anyone recommend this especially on vehicles over Km 120 000
Does anyone know what the viscosity of Lucas is?

One of the top technicians on this site once told me that on my specific vehicle and with its specific Km had, that Mobil 1 synthetic 5W - 30 was useable and the same oil filter for 0W - 40 can be used with the 5W - 30 oil.

I assume and await on one of the excellent technicians on this site with years of experience to confirm same that within or outside the warranty and/or whether your benz is fairly new or if your vehicle has done Km 120 000 or more (compression reasons) use 5W oil on lets say ML 320 or on anyother benz? (how did you arrive at this simalar conclusion or why you disagree)

The 5W - 30 synthetic or conventional will be less expensive, however, you will have to change the Oil and filter every Km 5000.

The Mobil 1, 0W-40 synthetic is more expensive , however, you will have to change the Oil and filter every Km 10 000.

This one I doubt anyone can answer:
Does Benz recommend only Mobil 1, 0W-40 synthetic? If so, how did benz arrive at this oil recommendation.
(iow I can report that I did a survey that determined that I am good-looking but when pressed on details of my survey - only my mother was surveyed)

Both numbers are viscocity measurements, the first at a set cold temperature, the second at a set warm temperature. The "W" stands for "winter" meaning it can work when it is very cold. None of the numbers have ANYTHING to do with durability, i.e., how often it needs to be changed. The oils with the dual numbers are "multi viscocity" meaning that they have different properties at different temperatures, as opposed to the old oils, like a S.A.E. 30, wich was 30 weight at all temperatures.
For all old style MLs, 5 w 40 was the standard, then 0 w 40, as it became more readily availible and worked better at cold temperatures. You should really only be using full synthetic in an ML, with the upgraded fleece filter designed for synthetic. Oh, and Mobil 1 is the recomended oil, but I think that is all just marketing. Any full synthetic in the right weight, such as Castrol syntec, will also work just fine.

Lots of oils are approved. See here:

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

__________________
1973 280SE 4.5 (Sold)
1984 LWB 280GE (Sold)
2000 G500 NMLE - "Deep Throat"
2007 ML320 CDI (Sold)
2010 Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia TipTronic (Sold)
2010 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (Sold and Sorely Missed)
2014 ML350 BTC
2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (On Order)

Actually, all oils change viscosity with temperature.

A single viscosity oil, example SAE30, exhibits normal thickening/thinning behavior as it is heated and cooled.

A multi-viscosity oil, example 5W-30 exhibits less thickening when cold than a normal single-viscosity oil, but the same viscosity/"thickness" when warm.

Most/all dinosaur multi-viscosity oils have viscosity modifiers added to keep them from thinning as much when warm, for example a dinosaur 5W-30 oil is essentially an SAE5 oil with short-chain polymer additives to keep it from getting as thin as an SAE5 oil normally does when warm, thus earning it a labratory-based rating with a second (hot) number higher than the base oil. The problem here is that the viscosity modifiers typically are sensitive to high-shear and break down so that you are protecting much of your engine with an SAE5 oil.

Many synthetics have little or no viscosity modifiers, example the ORIGINAL formulation Mobil 1 5W-30 had none at all since it naturally didn't thin as much when hot, which makes it a more durable oil.

Fairly recently Mobil re-branded its Mobil 1 oils as "extended" oils, and introduced a lower-line Mobil 1 which is actually not a synthetic basestock but a dinosaur oil cracked enough time to be badged full synthetic under current laws/regulations. Many other "fully synthetic" oils are produced in this cheaper manner so Mobil needed an oil to compete on price.

Fortunately the Extended drive Mobil 1 oils are still from synthetic basestock, as are many other good oils from Amsoil, Royal Purple, RedLine et al.

If your driving style and vehicle support wanting to go to an extended oil change interval, be sure that you still change your oil filter on the regular interval.

In any case, you get what you pay for in oils. The oil basestock is fairly cheap, but the additive package is not. Better or "premium" oils typically have a better additive package which will last longer and protect your engine better.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

More then you cared to know about oil.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=question164.htm&url=http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

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Satan creates nothing: he only ruins everything. He does not invent: he tampers. And his followers are no different ~ Archbishop Carlo Maria Vigaṇ