Hey guys, I'm thinking of buying a 2002 ML320. Everywhere I have researched on the internet, the truck is bit and chewed apart with tons of negative reviews. I have yet to see a good review, matter of fact there are websites customers have made proclaiming this truck as being a money pit and problematic SUV. How much truth is behind these claims? is this true for certain model years or all across the board?

I want to know from you guys, how are these trucks mechanically? how have you found them to be?



thanks, take care

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Mercedes CLS
Mercedes C-Class W203 - All time favorite

R.I.P.
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Mercedes ML - Warrior
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The 1998-2000 trucks had (have) many problematic areas..later trucks are much better.. The biggest problem is the lack of recommended service & people believing that they can go EVEN farther than that.

Well serviced 2001 & later ML aren't money pits but following 15,000 service intervals will cause them to be $$$$ pits.

The most common problems are lack of air filter changes resulting in Mass Air Flow sensor failure & that causes the Catalytic converters to fail prematurely.

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Just a cursory comment on a personal experience:
I could never afford a high-end vehicle like a Mercedes Benz, as I come from humble origins. Although my folks could afford one from time to time, I always wanted one!!!.
I have never been able to afford a new vehicle import or domestic, as a result I thank my late father for teaching few things during my tender years and lots of help from knowledgeble guys on this forum in 90% of time doing my own repairs and maintenance, and yes REALLY I do want to purchase the WIS manual but I just cannot afford one this year probably.

All this said and done I was able to afford a 2002 ML320 18mnths ago with 116 000 Km's (now 140 000 km), [before taking ownership: the front bearings were replaced under warranty b4 120 000 km limit and usuall brake pads] with the sole purpose of having a Mercedes Benz for a minimum of 400 000 km - longevity.
Since then I have changed my oil and filter if synthetic every 10 000 km if conventional evey 5 000 km: Major repairs; I have replaced the the hanging bearing since, found a electrical short affecting abs ets and what have you, I have to patch the Wiper fluid bottle now and now the water pump and possible a couple bearings for the pulleys as they sounding a bit rough.
I do not know what to conclude from the immediate above but I do have a suspision that lets just say 140 000 km is a bit little to be doing those types of repairs or maybe someone turned the speedo clock back - I don't know and can not compare same with domestic - someone else with experince should make those deductions and comparisons.

Finally my point, my neighbour a great guy and a "fitter and turner" or Millwright who was always happy for me purchasing a mecedes benz. He took a look at the damage caused against the alluminum back side of the water pump caused from the bearing collapse in the water pump jacket which is part of the engine block and shook his head in disgust as now the raised area in which the impeller operates is a bit thinned on the engine block side and is concerened as to whether this may affect my water pressure and then continued to say "I guess all vehicles are now mass produced even mercedes" and then asked me "why did you buy this car again?"

Did you see the timing cover got grinded off like mine?

Water pump leak 1998 ML320

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98 ML320 (gone but not forgotten)

ML 320 2002
Just replaced the waterpump drive around the block all looks sounds good, put the plastic engine cover back on now car turns fine but won't start return from a function start working again on the car, remove the plastic engine cover car starts, drive around the block car dies 10m from the the drive get out fiddle around, car starts with engine light on.
Now ???

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The red portion below may be relevant to this post
ML320 2002
Now??? Here is the update:
I fortunately got hold of chap up the road to come have a look see and here is what was discovered:
I did not have information other than what was said on the sheet of paper which came with the water pump; take the screw cap off the antifreeze water filler bottle or reservoir of the car fill it up and leave the cap off, start the car so as to assist with getting air locks or air out of the water system out the car while the car is running up to operating temperature - which I did but experienced the problems mentioned in the immediate post above. What the chap did do different is that he revved/accelerated (at first periodically about 3000 rpm then later on keeping it at 3000 rpm for longer periods of time, the thermostat opened during these procedures and the flow of water increased throughout the system unlike when I was doing it by just letting it idle and thereby expelling any air in the entire system with the thermostat open. What was discovered further was that the top radiator hose leading to the thermostat housing was collapsing because of a huge air gap in the system and also that I need a new hose especially in that section.
Also discovered which is not necessary relevant to the problem I was having and what Doc has mentioned in other posts was that the air filter was in serious need of replacement (which I am embarrassed to admit really am this is a silly oversight on my part), also (again not necessarily relevant to my immediate problem above) that the clutch assembly needs to be replaced showing play and wear and that even though antifreeze was more than a 50/50 ratio or rich blend of antifreeze to water which in turn raises ones boiling point in summer it would have no real benefit if the fan assembly or viscous fan/ clutch fan is running at 1/2 its speed.
The chap then said without checking or even looking doesn’t forget to re-tighten the cables to the battery, especially the red/live battery cable and sure enough it was loose. The chap then went on to say that this is a great vehicle and strong engine and will last for a long time, good coil pack, the only thing negative is the front axles (if this includes the ball joints, I don't know) and the Mass airflow sensor and the temp. Sensor may have to be replaced from time to time.

So I will be purchasing the 3 new parts as soon as possible, especially the
hose above asap as he said that the hose will probably swell up and explode pretty soon.

But here is where I fall short:
How does the above problem find marry up with what appears to be an electrical fault??? anyone??
My guess is that had this been an older vehicle without sensors I would have driven without knowing any better, but the sensors sensed no water flow and put the vehicle in limp mode or warning mode of possible engine failure and thus would not start?

can you read the code? what code did you get?
get the upper and lower radiator hoses and replace them, when hot, they should stay firm, if not, the rubber is going. The smaller hoses you don't have to worry about too much. This is what I was told by the MB dealer parts guy.

the air gap should not be the cause of your truck dying on you, it will only cause the temp to go up. It could be the MAF, since you mentioned the airfilter was in need of replacement, it may have fouled your MAF. Scan the code and see if you get 0170, 0173 codes. The other possibility is the crank shaft position sensor.

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98 ML320 (gone but not forgotten)

No the chap did not have his snapon sensor reader with him. I don't want to bug hime again so I will try someother way.

Supraupe after the above message went for a test drive all felt fine stopped at the store got in she starts drove forward she died, took the key out waited 3min she started again with the engine light on

just like supradupe mentioned earlier - The other possibility is the crank shaft position sensor.

My money's on failing CPS also. My 2 cents.

The scanner shows crank position sensor

thanks for the info. How much is the cat.convert job if it dies?

thanks bud

__________________
My Cars
Mercedes CLS
Mercedes C-Class W203 - All time favorite

R.I.P.
Mercedes C-Class - W202 Lemon
Mercedes ML - Warrior
VW Jetta – Worst Car I ever owned - Alot of problems

Other then the commonly known ML probs....MAF, Brake Eater, gutless, seems like these trucks are a good choice. I'm still looking around for a good buy. Prefer 02 or 03. People in Canada still think Mercedes are made of gold or something...i'm getting tempted to import a good used one from the US and save around $6000

thanks for the info everyone

__________________
My Cars
Mercedes CLS
Mercedes C-Class W203 - All time favorite

R.I.P.
Mercedes C-Class - W202 Lemon
Mercedes ML - Warrior
VW Jetta – Worst Car I ever owned - Alot of problems