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  #1  
Old 07-06-2012, 05:35 PM
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Can't raise rear seat-ML320

Usually we leave it down for the dog & groceries. 2000 ML320. I went to put the left rear seat in the up position and the lock lever does not release. I can feel the cable underneath is slack-obviously disconnected or broke. It is the 1 1/2 size seat so the middle is tight to the drive shaft hump and I can't get a finger in to find the catch. Has anyone had this happen and have a solution?

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  #2  
Old 07-12-2012, 10:16 AM
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Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
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I had one of the rear seats down for the last year because I couldn't get is back up because the lever broke.

I finally got it up a couple of weeks ago. The rod that the lever is attached has a dogleg in it so I was able to grab onto it and pull on it to rotate it. The seat has to go down further before it can go back up again.
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'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
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  #3  
Old 07-12-2012, 01:33 PM
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Not the same thing. Lever has cable (see first post) that's slack.
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  #4  
Old 07-14-2012, 07:57 PM
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The lever on my 98 is (or was) connected directly to a doglegged rod. Must have changed it in '00.
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #5  
Old 07-18-2012, 11:28 AM
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Could someone please look under their LR seat and give me some insight as to how & where the releases are. It's possible if I knew that I could activate them with a slim jim or something.
Thanks
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  #6  
Old 07-19-2012, 10:02 PM
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Location: NY
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See if this helps. It sounds like you can remove seat cushion to get to the cables.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf rear seat 1.pdf (223.0 KB, 734 views)
File Type: pdf rear seat 2.pdf (389.1 KB, 603 views)
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  #7  
Old 07-27-2012, 10:39 PM
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Thanks for those PDFs but I was unsuccessful
After many contortions resulting in several days of pain in numerous places, I came to the realization that those directions are for the removal of the seat IF you can raise the seat.
The 2 final bolts are not assessable by any tool known to man unless the seat is in the UP position. After I put it all back together I thought that maybe I should have removed the other seat first so as to gain access to said bolts, but my back and knee joints said "fuggedaboutit", so I resigned my70 year old self to having a 3 passenger ML and sat down to a few beers & Advil.
I surely wish someone here has had the same problem and could share their repair.
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  #8  
Old 08-12-2012, 02:15 PM
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Bump-still can't find a release
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  #9  
Old 08-26-2012, 08:25 AM
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I'm going to bump this as well. Just happened to my 99 ML430.

Please help...

the only people who can fit in the 1-1/2 seat now have got to be real small.....

Thanks
Al
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  #10  
Old 09-20-2012, 10:57 PM
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I guess I'll have to bit the bullet and take it in to the dealer. $$$$$
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  #11  
Old 10-03-2012, 05:17 PM
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Fortunately, when my cable came off, the seat was in the up position. I'll take a look and see when I get home if I can give you some guidance on what releases it if cable is off.
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:42 PM
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I'd appreciate that. I took it to the stealer and they wanted 4 hrs labor + $800 in parts. Without the parts they offered the labor-option either up or down. Sheesh...
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  #13  
Old 10-31-2012, 10:23 AM
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I don't understand the parts of $800. The cable that most commonly breaks is $145. I know, I just bought one because our seat did what yours did this past week.

Now, I will post pics on HOW to get the seat UP enough for you to rotate the right cylinder COUNTERCLOCKWISE along with holding in the LEFT lever as well. It's not pretty, about a 2 hour job. But, there's no other way.

A short description of what I had to do:
1. Removed snap rings from all 4 cylinders on the back 2 folding arms and 2 cylinders.
2. Tap out each stud from mounting bracket that is bolted to floor. When the studs are tapped out where the springs are, they will unload with a snap. That's okay because once the seat is upright and removed, you can reload them while reinstalling studs.
3. Get 2 x 4 and raise seat from rear. While holding in the left collar where the cross cable attaches, the right collar must be rotated counterclockwise to unlatch seat. Then seat can be raised in upright position. You may have to tap the collar with a ratchet or hammer to get it to move. When it releases, you'll hear the click.
4. REMOVE BOTH seats, the right single one FIRST because it sits on top of the bracket for the left one.
5. Once seat is out, identify the cable in question and replace it.
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2012, 11:22 AM
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I'm waiting.... I'd really like to see those pics
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  #15  
Old 11-05-2012, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkunk View Post
I'm waiting.... I'd really like to see those pics
Unfortunately, I don't have the pics. Memory stick was erased after pics of a fall festival were downloaded.
There is definitely NO way you can unlatch in down position. If you will do what I listed about removing studs and raising the rear of seat with a board, you will be able to gain access to the cylinder collars to unlatch seat. You can locate these collars by following the cable that crosses from one side to another. Then your torx bolts will be accessable for removal of seat.

The cable that breaks is an assembly that includes the handle.

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