PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/)

- ML, GL, G-Wagen, R-Class, Unimog, Sprinter (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/ml-gl-g-wagen-r-class-unimog-sprinter/)

- - ML430 Brake life (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/ml-gl-g-wagen-r-class-unimog-sprinter/42035-ml430-brake-life.html)

Called EBC 1-818-362-9486 (European Brake Company)

Front and rear available (6000 series) made for suvs and trucks

This is for a ML 320:
Rears 59 per pair
Fronts 69 per pair

Will include anti squeal grease, sensors

Quote:

Originally posted by gillybenztech
I scanned briefly through the instructions as was requested of me, it looks OK, other than the anti-squeal spray-on stuff, the spray on stuff won't last as long as the MB approved products, if it did MB would recommend it. A few other things is that the writer says the rotor is worn simply by stating "Note Lip". Big deal about the lip.

LOL. The "note lip" comment wasn't intended to be the manner in which one diagnoses worn rotors. It was merely an observation about the appearance of the rotor in the picture.

The front rotor was below minimum spec. It was at 22.4 mm.

Quote:

Originally posted by gillybenztech
Other things I noticed about the DIY was how it more or less sounded like a DUI article, seems like the writer thinks that auto mechanics and alcohol somehow mix. To me this is a serious, dead serious, business, especially something as critical as a brake or steering system. How much more critical does a system have to be? Sheeeeesh!

It sounds like you need a beer.

It was a joke for Christ's sake. Despite your protestations to the contrary, it's pretty tough to screw up a DIY rotor/pad job on an ML despite the fact that more time consuming than doing the same job some of Mercede's German brethren.

Quote:

Originally posted by gillybenztech
One final point is the "slugs" (roll pins) that help locate the rotor do NOT have to be removed to pull the rotor. Once the caliper is off and the one set screw, assuming the rotor really is worn out, just tap on the rotor with a large hammer and it will come off. You may want to thread one of the lug bolts a few turns into the hub to keep the rotor from say, dropping on your foot or taking a big chip off the garage floor, but DON'T ASK ME WHY I KNOW THIS!
Gilly

Yup, some folks let me know about that and I need to update the page. My rotors must have been very corroded because despite some serious persuasion with a hammer, and a small sledge, I couldn't get it to budge.

Thanks for the feedback.

Pete

Hey Pete,

How are ya, I think your article was very well done. Often people don't take pictures at the optimal resolution or their supporting narrative is weak. Your's was very useful and I'm sure as we all knew humorous! Gilly's a great contributor to our mshop experience and I'll bet his comments we're only supplemental.

Say Gilly, on the mbworld forum, one guy told me his east coast dealership replaced his squealing pads for free. His ML430 had 12K miles and is a MY2000 too. They did it under "good will", would your store have done the same? I'm not complaining about the deal my dealership is giving me but why not spend the money on paint touch up :cool:

We have done them under warranty, whether or not this was considered "good will" or just plain 'ol warranty I don't know, that's "front office" stuff. Typically the boss will have me r&r the pads and do the recommended fix, which is to use the MolyKote on the back of the backing plates and caliper support sliding areas for the pads, that alone fixed a few. If the problem was still evident, which I could determine by a short road test, i was then allowed to put in the new pads. I can only recall 1 truck where I sent the truck out after just the MolyKote and I felt the noise was gone, and had the truck return with the noise again, at which time I repl. the pads.
Gilly