Lebenz,

No problemo...

nimo,

Click on the FastLane and/or PartsShop tabs at the top of the page or Here

Here are the part numbers for the shocks based on the build date.
97-98 builds
10/99-02

FYI, it is best to have your VIN handy and call them when ordering the rear shocks as there are different part numbers for different years of M-Class.



A quick browse uncovered the rear shocks are tough to find. Time for a call to one of Bilstein's Distributors.

FR

Tonight I installed new swaybars on my ML430. It is a bit to late for an extensive evaluation, but it feels much more secure in turns. Less lean and roll.
I did get:
- 163 323 1965 Rear Sway bar for ML55 year 2002
- 163 323 1865 Front Swaybar for ML55 year 2002
I also got new bushings, but the old hardware worked well.

Install was pretty simple - no lift needed and only 13 and 15mm sockets/wrenches needed.

My factory bars looked very simlar to the new ones, but they were slightly lighter and just a bit thinner.
Old front was 35mm and rear 19mm.
New front is 36mm and rear 20mm.

Next project would be shocks, but the rears look complicated.
Anyone know if fabric mounted 3rd-row seats also included different springs or shocks?

Thanks,
Nimo

Just finished my shock swap. I installed front and rear Bilsteins, but also need to install new brake pads before I try it out on the highway. First ride around the block shows a little improvement in handling, but not as much as I got from the sway bar swap.
- I’m still using the stock springs and ride height.

How?
- Using the details found when searching this Forum, it was pretty straightforward (Great notes from Gilly, FR and others). But removing the rear springs and moving them to the new shocks, was a real pain. This was the single most time-consuming and aggravating part of the work. Second most annoying task was to unscrew the top nut on the rear shock/spring assembly – it would just turn and there was nowhere to hold it back.
- Reaching the rear upper mounts was possible, once the spare wheel was removed.

Overall I’m happy with my new ride quality and will post an update once I have my new pads on.

Next on my list are new tires; my current Generals are on their last miles.
Will post a separate question on this.

Thanks,
Nimo

Thanks,
Nimo

nimo,

Agreed, swapping the coils is a real biotch. I ended up having to 'dremel' one of the nuts off since we twisted the tip of the stock shock off.

Might have to investigate the sway bar swap. hmmmm

FR

The sway bars are dead easy to swap - done without jack.
- I bought a number of mounting brackets, as I didn't know what I would need. I ended up using only the bushings - all the old brackets were OK.
Have fun.
/Nimo

Hi,

Reading this thread convinced me to upgrade my stock suspension to "tighten" the ride of my 98 ML320 (it has 46k miles).

I began by purchasing the Bilstein shocks from Fastlane. I couldnt believe how quick it arrived (next day) with free shipping. Now that's service!

I installed the front Bilstein shocks just as documented on this forum (took about 1.5-2 hours). My concerns are now on the rear. I am now ready to install the rear Bilstein shocks but I would also like to install new springs as well. Nimo & FastRobert noted that it's a tougher job (difficulty scale is 7 out of 10) which concerns me a bit. A couple of questions I have before I tackle the job are:

a. For the new springs, how can I tell if my ML has flat end springs or not?
b. To remove the old spring/shock, do I need to compress the spring to remove it from the car?

Thanks in advance, you guys rock!

-rik320

You definitely need a spring compressor. A good one saves a lot of time. Mine hardly fitted between the spring-rows and was complicated to work with. I used "The MacStrut" ATD-7551 and they worked, but I had to take them apart and bend the parts in place. (Setting them in the middle doesn't help much - they need to be far apart.) There might be a product with a better fit, but this was all I could find.
- If there is a shop that you can take your rear's to for the spring swap, it is worth considering. Removing them off the car and mounting them is easy.

I did not change my rear springs, as I did not want to lower my car. Could not find a spring that would keep the height intact.

I'm very happy with the results of my sway bar and shock change. The ML keeps its path better on highway and reacts in city traffic with more confidence. Don't feel that I lost anything.
Have fun.
/Nimo

rik320,

Your VIN determines whether or not you need flat end coils. Another option would be to remove a real wheel, fender skirt and inspect the coils. It will also give you some perspective on the removal/reinstall process.

The spring compressor is used after the spring/shock assembly is removed from the vehicle. see attached image below.

Since one of the coils on my ML was in TWO pieces, a set of progressive rate H&R coils were ordered from Tire Rack for ~$150 and delivered with standard shipping in two days. They lowered the rear two inches. I am VERY satisfied with the end result. Saved about a grand doing it myself.

Another tip. Re-use the bumpstops from the OEM shocks in lieu of the questionable quality pieces included with the Bilsteins.

FR

Attached Thumbnails

 

Thanks Nimo & FastRobert.

yes I am thinking of ordering the springs at tirerack. It looks like I have flat end when I went to feel it the top-end with my hands (cant see it visually even when it's jacked up). I hope it goes well.

Regards,

-rik320

FR,
Is that picture of your broken spring or before you compress it?
- I tried a grip at about that offset and could not make my springs to un-load. Instead I had to get the compressor to grip the 2nd outmost ring and the compressor bolts did look like coat hangers when the spring finally released. (Camera failed to store my pic.)
My compressor is different from yours and does not have the convenient U bolts.

I left everything on, that came with the Bilsteins - but added the stock rubber stops.

Thanks,
Nimo

nimo,

The spring is compressed actually and it is the broken one. Notice the gap in the spring at the lower mount.

The U-bolt compressor defintely made it easier and the impact wrench got a workout..

Here's a closer look at the broken coil and the three bolts sentensed to Death by Dremel, or something.

FR

Attached Thumbnails

 

Arrghh! My springs arrived but Tirerack sent the wrong one. I ordered flat ends but received the other (although the box says flat end model). I was very disappointed since I paid extra to have it Saturday delivery.

It means I'll have to reschedule the project for next weekend. The good side is that this gives me another week for planning. I am contemplating on doing the following since removing the springs look like a really tough job, esp. if done @home without a lift (In my case I have to do it on the driveway).

1. If available, buy new upper shock mounts & bushings so I dont have to remove them from the old shocks (hence I dont need a special spring compressor).

2. Have a shop remove the top bushings & install it on the new shocks/springs.

3. Have the shop perform all the work.

I'll start getting quotes tomorrow.

rik320,

1. The rear springs/shocks are sold as an entire unit from MB. Been there, tried that. You would need a spring compressor either way.

2. Always an option.

3. Viable option also. But $$$.

FR

I did it!!

Everything was straight forward as mentioned on this forum. This forum certainly made the job so much easier. Total install time was 2.5 hours with a helping hands of a friend.

The most significant item is the strut compressor called StrutMaster($40). A standard long bolt & hooks compressor, nothing fancy, but the hooks are thin which is easier to insert between the gap. It took me several days to find it and I'm glad it paid off.

I saved $400. Thanks again guys !!!

Glad to have helped.

cheers!!

FR