Replacing Driver's Door Lock
 

The driver's door lock is exhibiting the "machine gun" problem. I purchased a new lock and had intended replacing the offending part last weekend. After removing the door panel, it seems that the lock can only be removed if the internal door brace is first removed, and the top of the door brace can only be removed if the side airbag is first removed. I decided to postpone the replacement and seek the advice of the forum members.

Do both the door brace and the side airbag have to be removed before the new lock can be installed? I realize that in order to remove the door brace, the four rivets must be drilled out. It also appears that the side airbag is held in place with two Torx-head bolts at the top and two rivets at the bottom. Is this true or will loosening the Torx-head bolts free the airbag for removal? I don't want to set the SRS fault light on the instrument panel so will simply disconnecting the battery before removing the airbag avoid this problem?

Incidentally, I did find the potential reason for the lock problem. A small spring that attaches to the lock mechanism had apparently fallen off and was lying at the bottm of the door.

Thanks.

Alex

Yes, you seem to have it figured out. Remove air bag, (drill out rivets) and drill out rivets holding rear run channel in place in order to remove the latch. unsure what's up with the spring though, never seen parts laying around in there.
You can remove the battery negative terminal if you're really deathly afraid of the SRS light. If you simply "refuse" to turn the key "on" while the side airbag is removed you'll accomplish the same thing.
Only potential problem i see is that you should use the MB rivets to reinstall the bag and channel. You need a really big rivet gun to install those babies.

Gilly

Gilly, many thanks for the help. I did purchase new MB rivets when I bought the new door lock but I don't think that my current rivet gun is up to the job. I had thought about using M6 bolts and lock nuts when I re-assemble everything rather than rivets. I will of course make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the movement of the window glass. Do you think this would be as good?

Sure. As you are already aware, just watch the length of the hardware to make sure nothing interferes with the guts of the door, and the inner door panel, etc. I'm no engineer, but structurally I think that would work fine.

Gilly

We use a rivet gun called
 

"Big Daddy" what a wierd name for a rivet gun, but it works great on those big rivets..