Oops forgot the make/model 2005 ML 350..

The MB hitch is super easy to instal although the early production instructions that came with mine neglected to tell me I needed to add a fuse in the fuse block for the signals to work. Easy fix but had me baffled for a while. The MB part also fits through the cut out in the bumper. Some of the Draw Tite tubular hitches I have seen actually fit under the bumper and are a bit of an eye sore but as you say it is only a hitch. If it is only holding 60lbs worth of bikes from skiding down the road that shouldn't be too tough of a job so no big deal. You would be surprised at how much you use it once you have it.

LS

ML hitch covers?
 

Hello fellow ML'ers!

Are there any slick hitch covers that look like they can from MB? To me, the OEM hitch looks kinda like an eye sore! I know about the normal slide in covers, but I am thinking more something that comes back to the bumper and integrates into the panel you need to remove! My panel looks like normal panel, but nicely notched out for the hitch!

Also, what is the story about towing and MB ML430? I understand they are rated to carry and haul X weight, but what is the real world experience? Tows great, tranny goes, blown motors or what else! Thanks in advance! BTW, I am new to my 2001 ML430 83K miles and I love it!

Hitch Wiring Harness Kit Availability
 

Hi There,
I want to install a Hitch on the ML but the Hitch kit is no longer available from MB. That I knew, but neither is the wiring kit anymore.
I just found this out yesterday.

I can get the "almost OEM 5K lbs hitch" from Draw Tite (part # 75087) but I am not able to source the wiring kit from anywhere.
Does anyone have any source on the exact wiring kit. I would prefer not to make my own.
All help is appreciated.

lights
 

I paid $100 or something like that for the harnass.
Only the lights worked, no blinkers or brakes.
It would cost you $10 for a generic and splice into the tail light yourself.

have not heard my problem happening to others.

no its not my trailer.. same results with 3 trailers.

I had installed all aftermarket parts for my hitch and wiring; the pricing for the OEM parts was stupidly expensive. I had my installer run all separate wiring for my brake controller and 7-way Bargman plug; all in parts and labor about $300. My set-up including the hitch mentioned above from Drawtite has served me well for the last 6 years.

-Kevin

Thanks guys,
Looks like I will have to make my own wiring harness. Its no big deal, I just want it to be as stock as possible. I am a bit particular that way.

By the way, I looked at the MB OE wiring kit on another car and its a OEM Chrysler plug made by pollack. Pollack is a competitor to Bargman etc.
Thanks again.

Trailer Hitch
 

I too have a Drawtite Max-frame hitch 75087 on a 1999 ML430. I paid $99. I also used a Q6540013 harness (from the dealer for $56 in 2006) and used it with a Modulite Lite #18187 that I bought for $25.54 (both the Modulite and hitch were purchased in 2002). They have worked flawlessly (blinkers and brakes lights work).

Good luck.

Hello Jim,
Thanks alot for the great information.
Q6540013 is a MB part number, which no longer is available, unfortunately.

The modulite and hitch is still available from Draw Tite. I better get it while I still can.
I looked inside the right rear inner wheelwell and inner panel today and there is no connector on my car. This means that I have to tap in my self and make my own connection.
I guess I thought I could plug and play, but it's gonna have to be the old fashion way.
Thank you again...

Trailer Hitch
 

If I recall correctly, the harness is simply a TWO wire plug. The plug is TINY and I'm pretty sure the end you're looking for is there. Mine was taped very tightly to the main harness and just behind the gas tank filler pipe. It was VERY difficult to see but now that you know what area to look in, I'm sure you can find it if you feel around the main vehicle wiring harness and find it. There was very little slack for me to pull and that is why I reluctantly decided to buy the harness. However, I do believe you could cut some of the bundling tape to give you more slack in that 2 wire connection so you can splice into it. Then either re-tape it or use cable ties to re-bundle.

If you want me to open that section up and take a pic for you, just send me a private message with your email address and I will be happy to do it over the weekend.

The bolt spec is M14 millimeters with a 1.5 pitch for a ML 320 manufactured in 2001
However, these bolts do not fit despite the spec sheet
B]Trailer Hitch Installation - Bolts too tight [/B]
ML 320 Manufactured in 2001 (w163)
If one orders the part from Merc OEM - part # is 163 315 0071 but the problem is that there are no parts anywhere in ontario hels by the merc dealers - so they have to be ordered and i don't have the time

I have the same problem
Trailer Hitch Installation - Bolts too tight
M14 1.5 pitch bolts please help what is the solution?
I purchased the bolts from after market and can only get 2 too 3 threads in and it appears i am damaging or flattening the 2 too 3 threads using more that 10 pounds per square inch.
What is the solution?:
TURNS OUT THAT I THE BACKYARD MECHANIC HAS TO DOUBLE CHECK THE? #*?$?? Experts:
"WORK"
Thank you for your assistance DAEWONI: when u said double check the correct spec i went back to the bolt specialist place and requested they re check the pitch it was incorrect OMG!!!! can u believe the ordeal in addition GO Figure i even went to a trailer place and they too gave me the incorrect pitch.

@#$ Unbelievable!@# (these are my kindest words right now)
THEY GAVE ME A 2.1 PITCH INSTEAD OF THE CORRECT PITCH of 1.5

Draw-tite/converter (15 yrs old)
 

I put a Draw-tite on my '99 ML-320 when I bought it in '98 and it has worked fine. I still recall drilling the holes in the frame for the reinforcing brackets as being a tough job.
You need a converter from the Euro 4-wire tow lights to the American 3-wire so you might as well put it in the knock-out panel under the compartment at the rear of the driver's side. That's where you access the loom anyway. I've been through a few converters and finally caught on that a good one can use that separate fused B+ wire to draw upon and switch as it monitors the voltages in the stop/turn/tail light wires.
On wiring, solder everything! Crimped connectors are just a problem down the road-especially where trailers are concerned.