How difficult is it to replace the brake pads and rotors on the ML? On a scale of 1 to 10, one being an oil change to ten being rebuild a motor, what do you guys think?

My front brake pads are getting worn and my mechanic recommend to replace the rotors also. The car has 110k on it. He said at this point the rotors are to thin to have them turned. Also, it would cause warping if the pads are changed without changing the rotors.

What brand of brake pads and rotors do you guys recommend?

Is this a DIY project?

John

Difficulty rating will really depend on your experience working on cars. If you've done some work on your cars before you would probably think it's a 2.

Before I replaced the rotors I'd measure the thickness. There's a number stamped on it somewhere which gives the minimun thickness.

My preference is for OEM parts.

I agree with Ron, probably a #2, doesn't get much easier than an ML320. Pretty good arm strength and a big pair of channel lok pliers needs to push the pistons back in, but other than that.....EASY job. I alos agree on sticking with OEM on the parts.

Gilly

PAGID, I believe is the OEM manufacurer for Mercedes brake parts. Be sure and replace the pad wear sensor as well. Good luck!

Can someone tell me what tools do I need for this job? I don't want to open it up and not have the tools to finish it in timely fashion. It's my primary car.

Thanks,
John

Just the normal tools, that is no MB special tools are needed. I think there might have been bolts that took a 20 or 21mm socket but I might be wrong on that. I also recall using a torx head socket maybe #40. If you have a good set of 1/2" drive metric sockets and torx head sockets you should be covered.

I do remember having trouble getting the piston to go back into the caliper, not enough arm strength on my part, so I used a large C clamp and had no problem.

Is it true that PAGID is the OEM maker for ML320 Brakes?

I used the Mintex "red box" and I'm real happy with them. No difference in stopping distance and almost NO DUST! With all the changes to pads in the ML's (sensors, shapes etc.), just make sure you're getting the exact replacement.

I rate it a 2 as well.

You need a torx bit, allen wrench, C clamp for the piston, and some penetrating oil.

Torx for removing the caliper. Wish I had the torx size for you.

Allen wrench for the single rotor hold down screw. Mine were frozen on with rust. A little PB Blaster or whatever it's called in the lug bolt holes and a couple of minutes later, they practically dropped off.

It took too much arm straining to get those pistons back in. My neighbor's C clamp made it WAY easier. Keep your pad faces and rotors free of contaminants.

Don't forget that the first time you use the brakes, they are not going to be 100%. Gotta get those pad faces back down to the rotors after pushing the pistons back. So, don't back out of your driveway balls to the wall.

I recently had the pads in my 320 replaced. Used PBR Deluxe. No change in pedal feel. No dust. Yeah!

__________________
...Tracy

'00 ML320 "Casper"
'92 400E "Stella"

I agree with everyone that the brake job is pretty straightforward but let me share two pitfalls that I experienced.
1. While changing the rotors, one of the allen screws that hole the rotor became stripped. This added some time in drilling out the screw. To avoid this next time, I added anti-seize compound to the threads. If you run into a stubborn screw, I would suggest heat and or penetrating oil to loosen the screw (just don’t set the ML on fire)
2. After I finished the brakes would squeal terribly. I took them apart and sprayed an anti-squeal spray (Permatex make some) on the back of the pads. Sounds great now.

Good luck

What are the considerations for changing the 320's (my 2001 and earlier) to those of the ML430? Is this just using 430 parts instead or is it more involved?

Changing pads is easy as everyone agrees. My comment;

DO NOT change the rotors unless you really trust whoever says they are bad. If you have not had them turned, it is unlikely they are bad. Mine are still fine at almost 100,000 miles, and I'll bet they go another 50,000. The pads do need changing about every 30,000 on the front and 60,000 on the rear. I tow a trailer, and live in the mountains, so flatlanders may gety more mileage. I got NAPA pads the first time so they would be free for ever more. Get a micrometer and check the rotors your self.

I don't go by the mic for rotors. I go by whether or not they are heavily grooved and/or have a lip on them at the outer edge. I won't have the rotors turned either. To me, shaving off the mass of the rotor seems like a good way of removing its heat sinking capacity. I'm pretty anal about stuff like braking ability, so take it for what it's worth. I do the rotors every two sets of pads. At 48k, the lip on the outer edge was significant.