Running list of failures during 6 years of ownership
 

09/04/07 - UPDATED LIST - 74k miles

Left side driver's seat plastic panel broke (big ass?)
1.5 year old battery failed abruptly
CD changer replaced due to intermittent errors
Catalytic converter seam cracked
Power steering hose clamp recall
Cracked windshield washer resevoir
Stop lamp switch failed, causing ABS/ESP lights to come on (replaced THREE TIMES)
Brake pads last 24k miles
Tail light bulb burned out in under a year (yes, it's an anal list)
Rear hatch lock failed causing "machine gun" locking/unlocking
Driver's window glass rattles in frame when partially down
Engine stumbled and quit (twice) after starting for no apparent reason (no resolution)
Blown A/C fan fuse. Wiring mod installed for fans and fuse
Ignition coil pack #2 failure at 55k miles
Spark plug wire failure (should be 2.2k ohms - read 8.5k ohms) at 55k miles
Power steering pump replaced due to leak
MAF sensor
Master cylinder replaced due to BAS/ESP lights on
Engine idles rough and occasionally loses power when cold (no codes dealer suggests different fuel brand)
Sunroof wind deflector jammed (replaced)


We are currently about $3k into a $4k extended warranty with 4 months remaining. Guess it was a dumb idea to get it after all. Live and learn.

Q, I feel your pain. Here's the good news: most of your problems are not significant failures. I had a 1998 that had many problems, but I never got stranded and I still liked the overall vehicle. So, I bought a 2000. It's been much better. Still, some problems though. I only got 20K miles out of the first set of pads (and rotors!). I just switched to Mintex low dust pads. So far they're great, and they're supposed to last much longer. If you're a do-it-yourself-er, its an easy job. So, get your annoyances fixed while you still have warranty. Consider an extended warranty that covers engine/drive train, its cheaper than any major repair you might need. good luck.

>Left side driver's seat plastic panel broke (217 lb. ass to blame?)
Hasn't happened on my 98ML yet, maybe my ass is not heavy enought.
>Battery failed abruptly
happened to me after 2 years of ownership
>CD changer errors intermittently (no resolution)
happens to me now and then, it also get stuck and I couldn't take out the magazine. I suspect the mechanism is dirty and needs some cleansing.
>Catalytic converter leak
>Cracked windshield washer resevoir
>ABS/ESP lights came on for no apparent reason (no resolution)
hasn't happend yet.
>Brake pads last 24k miles
dealer changed mine at 22.5k miles while my battery went south, I asked for the inspection of old parts and found that there was still significant pad life left (at that time, I didn't know much, it was probably a dealer rip off). My second set of pads last approx. 30k when I changed them out myself, I think they could last 40k based on our driving habit. I concur with the other user that the Mintex pads are so much better in terms of less dusty and it is just as quiet and performed as well as the OEM pads.
>Tail light bulb burned out prior to 1 year ownership
it can happen to any manufacturers, afterall, the filament inside the bulb is pretty fragile.
>Rear hatch lock failed
my broke after 45k miles, it is a poor design in my opinion, the mechanism could use a better part (i.e. metal) instead of plastic.
>Driver's window glass rattles in frame when partially down
happened to mine too, it seems lots of cars have this rattle problem when window is partially open, Nissans are notorious on this. Too bad they don't make windows ride on a track, like some older German cars.
>Engine stumbled and quit after starting for no apparent reason (no resolution)
it is the security ring on the ignition, mine got replaced 3 times before it finally behaves properly.
>Still waiting for that harmonic balancer to let go.
I had the dealer changed it. cost $370 parts and labor. I have the old part and it ain't too bad after 53k miles of service.

I feel for your pain, lot of ML owners went through it. I think that my ML now is running better and more reliable than it was 5 years ago and I am going to keep it for at least 5 more years.

steve

Update:

The CD changer was replaced and the ABS/ESP fault was due to a bad brake light switch.

I believe the ABS / ESP light will illuminate when your voltage goes below a certain level.

The demise of your battery was the likely cause.

The ABS/ESP light was attributed to the "Stop Lamp Switch" which was replaced under warranty P/N 001-545-31-09.

Can't believe I missed this one too:

Blown A/C fan fuse. Wiring mod installed for fans and fuse
P/N 163-540-00-35 Electric Cable

That stop lamp switch may have caused it, but my mom's 1999 E430 states in the owner's manual that an illuminated ABS / ESP lamp is caused by a drop in voltage below a certain level.

The battery failed about a month prior to the warning lights activating. The two were unrelated.

Here's another post on the same failure

Great. Thanks for tip.

The owner's manual also suggests that if the ABS / EPS light illuminates, it can be "re-set" by turning the wheel all the way from the left to the right. My memory is a little vague on the exact procedure, but I remember performing this procedure as described in the owner's manual.

Sharing info in a place like this helps everyone involved.

3year ml problems
 

I have 84970 miles on my 98 ml 320. Here are a list of problems I have encountered during the last 3 years:
1. left front seat heater quit
2.rear windshield wiper assembly and motor replaced
3. transfer case seal replaced
4. air flow value replaced
5. front belt tensioner replaced
6.fuel pump replaced
7. sending unit replaced
8.new fuel filter replaced
9. pinion seal and rear axle seals replaced
10. shut off switch replaced ( near driveshaft )
11.window switch panel replaced
12. harmonic balancer replaced

All of this in the last 45,000 miles. I bought the ml used, at 41000 miles and had the signal light assembly replaced and the blower motor. I purchased an extended warranty( not mercedes)) and my dealer has been great fixing some problems outside of the 4 year 48000 warranty. ( light switch 70000,harmonic balancer 60000). My "restoration" is almost complete( the only way I keep my sanity ) but the other question is what use would you buy ?

Did you mean "what SUV would you buy?".

Sad to say this all seems pretty typical.

Here are a few comments:

The seat heater pads seem prone to failure, especially on the bottom cushion.

This is just one part, the motor is part of the assembly. The 2 usual problems are either the rear wiper squeaks when operating (usually quite loudly), OR the rear washer nozzle either breaks off or starts rotating with the arm, so the fluid isn't correctly directed to the rear glass. When it breaks off it may be a good way to get into trouble as it will spray rearwards about 20-30 ft!!!

I assume the Mass Airflow Sensor here. ML isn't alone with this problem, nor is Mercedes-Benz.

Front belt tightener again is an MB problem, not just ML (doesn't make it any nicer for you, but don't blame just ML is what I'm trying to point out).

On the fuel pump and level sender, again this is the same part. Pretty common on especially the first few years to have this fail. They were constantly trying to get this part "right". Hopefully they finally do.......hopefully.

The fuel filter was replaced......then replaced again? They did change to a different length fuel filter requiring a modification, which I thought was pretty dumb on their part. To have to remove the rear seat, etc etc to replace the fuel filter? Couldn't they make it wider or some weird oblong (oval profile or something) so that you wouldn't need to pull the rear seat? Maybe they thought the dealers would be replacing the fuel pumps often enough that they could just replace the fuel filter at that time!!!!!

No idea what this refers to......

Yeah, that was another big problem, first thing I thought of was "What, only once?". I think the newest versions are holding up pretty good.

Another Mercedes-wide problem, not just ML.

Gilly

Re: Running list of failures during 3 years of ownership
 

50 ML Problems In 4 Years
1. Brake system defect (pump leak)
2. Wiper motor defect
3. High pitch sound from rear of car (could be fuel pump)
4. Door problems (latch noises)
5. Door problems (maladjusted door)
6. Command center malfunction (dead navigation system)
7. Door lock malfunction (right rear door actuator)
8. Washer reservoir leaking
9. Lamp switch defect (stop lamp)
10. Fuel filter problem
11. Door lock malfunction (gas door actuator)
12. AC problem. (AC fan speed switch knob malfunction)
13. Door lock malfunction (gas door actuator)
14. Trim problem (sunroof seal fell off)
15. Door problem (Rattle from inside left rear door - loose metal washer)
16. Trim problem (3rd brake lamp cover pops off even when re-secured
17. Trim problem (rear inside trim panel defective)
18. Window washer nozzle defective on right side
19. Command center malfunction (dead navigation system)
20. Door lock problem
21. Lamp problem (defective check engine light - right rear 02 sensor)
22. Rotor in rear changed at only 27500 miles
23. Sunroof shade problems
24. Sunroof guide clip missing
25. Sunroof shade problems
26. Trim problem (left outer seat trim cracked)
27. Sun roof frame defect
28. Seatbelt jammed (left rear)
29. Brake system defect (pad wear sensor defect)
30. Defect fuel door lock actuator
31. Rear door latch replacement
32. AC problem (system not cooling properly)
33. Sunroof motor connectors rattling
34. AC problem (blower motor rattle)
35. Drivers window stuck down (bad switch)
36. Command center problem (CD changer error)
37. Window problem (clicking front left window)
38. Door lock problem (rear right/left door actuator defect)
39. Door problem (insulation inside right door damaged due to melting glue)
40. Command center problem (CD changer error)
41. Trim crack (leather on steering wheel cracked)
42. Door problem (rear right/left door actuator defect)
43. AC problems (blower rattle)
44. AC problems (clicking sounds)
45. Trim crack (cracks in duct tape on door)
46. Door problem (rear left door actuator defect)
47. Washer reservoir crack
48. Right window washer nozzle defect
49. Lock problem (front left door actuator defect)
50. Car manuals and registration card taken during service
51. Power steering problem (replacement of clamp for power steering hose due to possible fluid loss at radiator)

tcp??, yea, seems you change login ids accross sites, but at least always start with "tcp". you know, you might just deserve all those problems on your ML :-D cheers!

"you might just deserve all those problems on your ML" "crying baby"

I don't know what your problem is, but I found the list helpful, as I am sure others will to. I am at the crucial point of end of warranty. I need to make a decision as to whether or not I want to keep it without warranty, buy an extended warranty, or sell it.

If you don't care to read it, don't.

I'll never understand the sadistic poster:
"I'm tired of coming here every day and having to read all of your worthless tripe. See you tomorrow."

You think you've got problems......... check out the ML section at this site http://www.mercedesproblems.com/ :D

To "Q"
 

Here is an interesting "poll", scroll down and there is an excellent post explaining the nature of the "tcp", thant may shine some light.

Thanks

http://www.mbnz.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1124566&posts=18&fid=29&np=1127731

To "Q": More ML problems
 

Here an excellent post that may shine some more light on the many ML problems.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=89699&start=1&fid=29

Thanks

Adding to the list.

Ignition coil pack #2 failure at 55k miles.
Spark plug wire failure (should be 2.2k ohms - read 8.5k ohms) at 55k miles.

Be forwarned, the dealer quoted me $18.90 for each of the 12 plugs. I was going to do them while I was changing the wires, but at that price, I'll hold off until 100k.

Q, I curious as to if that 100K plug change would be your first? I also have a 2000 ML but with only 38K miles. I was considering holding off on a plug change till the 5 year mark but there has been posts discussing seized plugs if you don't change them at 4 years.

The single plug I pulled was in there pretty tight. It grabbed all the way out. I was affraid of pulling threads. On reinsertion, I put some anti-seize on the threads that the factory delivered dry.

If you are really concerned, you could pull them all and put some anti-seize on the threads and replace them.

updated list in first post.

Updated list

ML is great vehicle overall
 

I guess the poor first year 98 ML models had the lion's share of problems. I have a 99 ML320 which I bought coming off a lease and it has been a tremendous car overall. I replaced the MAF and had the cats fixed (one was cracked) under the "recall", plus the PS hose clamp and some other minor things. Otherwise, it has run "like a trooper" as they say. Perhaps the original lease holder took care of a lot of things under warranty that I don't know about -- but it has been a very good car/truck in general. No car is perfect; they all require good maintenance and attention to problems that develop before they become worse .... I think a lot of these difficulties lie in the area of "poor owner performance" as part of the problem. I would buy the current ML over several other Mercedes models that seem to have some extensive problems with electronic systems, etc. etc.

I'm sure you are not implicating me in the "poor owner performance" group, but thought I'd add in my maintenance prescription just for info purposes for others.

Our 2000 has been dealer serviced for all A and B FSS maintenance. I have changed the front pads twice, the front rotors and rear pads once. I have also started changine the oil with OE spec Mobil 1 mid-FSS required service. The wife drives the car 99% of the time and she's pretty tame by anyone's standards. We just put on our second set of replacement tires at 60k miles. First ones lasted about 25k. The originals were GrandTrek. I replaced those with CrossTerrains. Since we have cut her mileage back considerably and intend to sell the car in another year and a half, I went cheap and put the GrandTreks back on.

Tire thoughts re the ML's
 

I have found that the General tires for the ML's perform the best and if you look at user reports in Tire Rack, you will see that these tires often go 50-60K miles or more if properly inflated and treated. I have put these on both my ML and my girl friend's ML (another 99) with great results. Also changed plugs on my 99 at 65K and some of the plugs were already very, very tight in the block. I would recommend that anyone with an ML redo the plugs at 50K or as one person suggested in this thread group -- take out the plugs and put on some anti-seize goop; but once they are out why not put in some new plugs with the anti-seize stuff?! My reference to drivers who mistreat their Mercedes or other cars was a general comment, not aimed at anyone in particular, but when you read some of the threads, it becomes obvious that the person writing them really does not take good care of his cars and gets very excited when he slams his cup holder open and breaks it!? I treat all my cars as if they have to last forever --- which they probably will ....

Our ML was prolematic
 

Sadly, our '99 ML320 was the worst Benz we've ever owned (oddly one of the best is the current '90 W124 with a hair under 200k on the clock). Gorgeous in black with all the exterior factory bling (we bought it used in 2001 with 16k on the odo).

After the traction control lights would not go off, and we started getting a number of O2 sensor CEL's (that would then go away again after a few days - it was time to trade her in). It was an exceptional off-road machine with the electronic traction control (last time we tested it was on a beach and it was unstoppable).

Now, it's W124's for this family. Should have another delivered tomorrow weather permitting.

Some of the things I recall us having to fix on the ML

Accel cable (was sticky.. scary!)
brake light switch
brakes (pads and rotors twice in the first 50k miles)
rear hatch bagan to rattle, never was able to resolve that

I can't recall all the little things but I spent more time ordering parts from Faslane for the ML than I did for the much older 300E. I wanted to love it but secretly I'm glad the wife agreed to sell it, I was getting scared that we were on the verge of a HUGE repair bill... :(

I just bought another 124 too off ebay a couple of days ago. A 1992 300 TE wagon.

I've owned MBs for over 25 years and my ML is not the quality of the 1992 and older models. I've not owned a MB newer than 1992 nor would I. I don't know how good the quality is now but they seem to be more cheaply made than the older models.

I do still like my 1999 ML 320 which now has 112K miles on it and I have no intention of selling it, inspite of the number of repair. I think for the price it is a very nice mid-sized SUV.

Updated for master cylinder replacement.

ML's don't have throttle cables, it's electronic!

My 2000 ML 430 has a throttle cable. :rolleyes:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213951&chapter=EPI346&appSectionid=6&groupid=10025&subgroupid=618 79&make=67&model=Ml430&year=2000&catalogid=1

THROTTLE CABLE, ML320, ML430 00-03 $22.50 $16.88

By golly, my '98 ML320 has one too! I stand corrected. Seems like the actuation of the throttle is electronic, but there is a cable to engage the transmission kickdown switch. Is this right?

"Why use one part when two will do?"

The electronic throttle potentiometer is operated by a cable.
The actual engine throttle body is drive by wire.
MB has been using this kind of set-up since ASR and Electric Throttles came out in the early 90's.
DR.D

lucky
 

You sound like one of the luckier ML owners.
I had the cracked reservor problem, it leaked fluid on the computer; it eventually broke through the metal and damaged the computer. I had a $1200 computer repair. this is was only one of many problems I've had.