For Gilly and other knowledgeable ML techs/owners:

We just got our 99 ML430 back from the dealer in Newport Beach CA and was charged about 700 plus for front and rear pads and rotors inc. labor. the car has about 63k and this is the first time the rotors were replaced. We have the extended warranty which extends to 100k.

Would replacing the rotors and/or pads myself VOID the warranty that is left on the car. I read the warranty agreement and it stated :

The ff. are NOT covered by any Starmark Extended Limited Warranty:

10. Repairs at non authorized dealers: Otherwise covered repairs when the prescribed repair is not performed by an authorized MB center.

I've read several posts of people having an easy time changing their pads / rotors? so i was curious about going ahead and saving some money, if it would not VOID the extgended warranty on the car . Otherwise car is great with a few minor repairs here and there.

Thanks for all your help.

99 ML 430 63K- RUBY
84 300TD 295k- ASTI

you will not in any way void your warranty coverage.

and actually, even $800.00 for rotors and pads all the way around on a 113 ML is VERY reasonable by dealership standards. what was the labor rate at your dealer? also, we normally don't see a set of pads last longer than 20k miles on an ML...

yeah, so, do the brakes yourself next time

I did my front and rear pads and front rotors for, I think, $240. Dealer wanted $600 just for pads. I said, "wow, that's a lot."

I go to the same dealer in Newport Beach. They charged me $700 for replacing the pads all around and sanding the rotors, no rotor R&R.

When I questioned the charge, he actually told me with a straight face that was the shop charge for pads and rotor cleanup. I think that was unconsionable for the brake job that was done. I told my tech writer never to expect to see any brake work from me again.

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Ed "Don't Benz's just feel better..."

Current wives...
2000 ML430 Skyview "The Mel"
2000 CLK430 Cab "The Cab"
85 300D Turbo "The Diesel"

Past wives...
92 300E
85 190E

"One should as a rule respect public opinion in so far as is necessary to
avoid starvation and to keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond
this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyranny, and is likely to
interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
Bertrand Russell

Q - I am facing the issue right now! Where did you get your parts; Local MB dealer or independent parts supplier?? Thanks!

Yes! (I've used both.) Same parts, lower cost through independent such as Fast Lane or Parts Bin. Go with a reputable independent to be sure you're getting OEM parts.

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Lenny

There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. --Ernest Hemingway

'10 GL550/'04 BMW 545/'99 BMW 323/'98 ML320/'87 VW GTI (race)

Go here and order your parts. I cannot recommend the PBR based on my experience with getting an improperly manufactured piece and the fact that they do not have the brake wear sensor feature. There is nothing complicated with changing the pads or the rotors at all.

I bought pads and anti-squeal grease for my ML at FastLane, and had the dealer install them. They charged me about $150 for labor. The pads are PBR deluxe, and they create about 1/10th the dust the OEM pads do.

Q that's weird. My PBRs came with sensors and fitment wasn't a problem. Any chance you got the wrong parts?

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...Tracy

'00 ML320 "Casper"
'92 400E "Stella"

I got the deluxe pads and there was no hole for the sensor wire at all in them. Also, as I've posted here before, one of the pads was built on the wrong backing plate. The taper of the compound and the notch for the caliper to fit into on the edge were not the way any pad should be built. I had to grind the lower edge of the C shaped notch off the edge of the backer plate in order to lower the caliper into place. You know how you have to put the one side of the caliper in place before the other so the notch fits in and the opposite side slides down? Was impossible with the part I was sent. Phil offered a swap, but I decided grinding was my prefered option so I could get the car on the road that day.

Thanks for the help folks! Glad I found this forum!

GREAT HELP AS USUAL!...THANKS GUYS....

try www.philsinc.com
i got mintex pads, front and rear with sensors and shipping for 90 bucks.

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dan

I am planning on changing the front pads and rotors on my 99 ML 430 and was looking for some directions. I have been to http://www.petefagerlin.com/ML/brakes.htm but from what I can tell, the brake calipers are different on my ML. I have completely replaced the brakes on my Audi S4 with StopTech's and I just want to make sure that I have the best instructions possible. Any help will be appreciated! Also, can anyone tell me what the torque setting is for the lug nuts?

TIA

I've got almost 57,000 miles on my original front pads and rotors on a 2000 ML430. The rear pads had to be done at around 28,000 miles. This has to be close to some kind of record for front pads on an ML.

i was surprised how small the rear pads are, compared to the front ones anyway. pad/rotor life may depend on how much towing is done with the vehicle. i also find that just taking my foot off the gas, or cancelling cruise control, slows the truck down pretty quickly. i find that looking at the nav screen tells me when the next hiway intersection is coming up when towing my boat, and if i just back off the gas about 1/4 mile early, just takes light braking to complete a full stop. 57 k miles must be a record though, especially for a vehicle of this weight!

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dan