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  #1  
Old 11-18-2004, 11:36 AM
R Leo's Avatar
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Soldering Advice Requested

Has anyone here ever done any large sheet metal soldering?

OK, here's the deal: For my WVO storage and filtering I've acquired some old service station square "bulk oil" tanks (36"x36"x36" with a hand-cranked pump). They are made from galvanized steel which is spot-welded together and then the joints were soldered to seal the tank.

At some point in the last 50 years, the bottom corner of the one tanks was bumped hard enough to slightly bend the metal and crack the solder joint at a seam, allowing the tank to leak in that area. In addition, the tank had collected water in it at some point which has corroded the metal inside the cracked joint.

It seems like I should be able to resolder joint this to fix the leak. Any pointers or advice?

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  #2  
Old 11-18-2004, 11:51 AM
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Clean the area to be soldered with an abrasive to clean clear metal....Use plenty of flux and acid core solder.....be sure to wash well afterwards as the flux will promote corrosion. and use plenty of heat for solder flowout.
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2004, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
Clean the area to be soldered with an abrasive to clean clear metal....Use plenty of flux and acid core solder.....be sure to wash well afterwards as the flux will promote corrosion. and use plenty of heat for solder flowout.
What about down inside the joint? I can't mechanically clean that; will the acid core solder do it?
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Old 11-18-2004, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Leo
What about down inside the joint? I can't mechanically clean that; will the acid core solder do it?
No it won't. and where there is rust you won't get solder flowout either.

How heavy is the metal? Is sandblasting as much as you are able an option?

Is it a light enough guage you can open the joint to clean it somehow and close it back up with a hammer prior to soldering?

Even better are you able to post a ppicture of the joint in question. Maybe a "Patch" that overlays the joint is an option, assuming its flat enough.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 11-18-2004 at 12:19 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2004, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
No it won't. and where there is rust you won't get solder flowout either.

How heavy is the metal? Is sandblasting as much as you are able an option?

Is it a light enough guage you can open the joint to clean it somehow and close it back up with a hammer prior to soldering?
Can't sandblast, but opening the joint is a good idea...I'll try to pop the spot welds apart or drill them out and pry the joint open to clean it. It's just light sheet metal, 12ga..10ga max, hammering it or clamping it back togehter should be no problem.

Here's a cross section of the construction:
Attached Thumbnails
Soldering Advice Requested-tanksection.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 11-18-2004, 12:34 PM
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yes open that up as best you can, use whatever means you have to clear the rust, and pound it back after you clean what you can. You want to clean as much as possible into the joint. So you have the maximum bond you can get. get Lots of flux into the joint immediately after cleaning but before you bend it back. This will wick solder into the joint. Solder really is resistant to spreading in unclean areas and where there is no flux. You will likely need a torch so with WVO be careful if it flares up.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #7  
Old 11-18-2004, 12:45 PM
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Stella!
 
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Bonehead,
Thanx for the advice! I guess I was hesitant to 'do more damage' by prying it apart but I can understand now that it is the best/only way to get this done right.

No worries about fire; no oil/flammables in this tank for quite some time...it had just collected (unintentionally) 45+ gallons of rain water in it with no oil sheen or film present.

Thanks again!
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2004, 01:02 PM
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Make sure its acid core solder.....and the proper flux for that.....be very generous with the flux. You can't use this for electrical work, and that stuff won't work for this. Its going to take a lot of heat, so be patient,

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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