I was going to replace the front rotors on my girlfriends 91 Accord, in fact I spent many hours acquiring tools, various things and laboring in the garage in a vain attempt. Due to the omission of an important fact in the Haynes manaul, I was left up that famous old creek. First of all, the design sucks. Front wheel drive sucks. There is too much stuff all in the front axle. Working on an old Benz is much more sensible.

Basically, after finally arriving at the point of removing the driveaxle and unbolting the inside retaining bolts for the disc/rotor assembly, I discovered that separation of the disc/rotor assembly from the steering knuckle requires a slide hammer. Or, as my race car mechanic friend does on old Honda's and Subaru's, remove the entire front axle assembly and places the steering knuckle in a press to press out the hub and rotor. All this to do a freaking brake job!
The Haynes manual says nothing more than unbolt those 4 bolts on the inside and remove the disc/hub from the steering knuckle. You think they could have said something, not everyone has a slide hammer. They are expensive things aren't they?

It ticks me off, I could have r&r'd the sub mounts on my fintail instead.

Just venting,
thanks.

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

I suggest that you obtain a factory Honda service manual. I owned a 1988 Accord for 16 years, did several brake jobs and never had to use a slide hammer to remove the rotors. After removing the caliper there should be two bolts which remove the caliper bracket. Then there should be either 2 or 4 phillips screws which secure the rotor to the wheel hub. Remove the phillips screws and the rotor should come off.

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Ray
1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles
2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles
1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles

Now let's not condemn all FWD cars based on this Accord. Removing the rotors on the majority of front drive cars is a piece of cake. But Honda, for some inexplicable reason, decided to go with a "trapped" rotor design for a few years in the early 90's. Generally, if I don't feel a pulse in the pedal and the rotor width is within spec, I don't mess with these. But when there is a problem, here's how I get them off:

(First of all, a slide hammer might work, but it has to be big and heavy, and it's brutal on the bearings.)

Leave the four hub attachment bolts in place, but backed out about a 1/4 inch. Then with the same 12 point socket used to loosen them and an extension, go around and pound each bolt head using a fairly good sized hammer. You'll probably have to beat on it pretty hard. Keep going around to each bolt and be patient. Shield your eyes. Keep loosening the bolts as the hub comes out. Once it's off the knuckle it should be obvious how to get the rotor off the hub. This has always worked for me, but I don't tend to see cars with serious rust issues. If there's heavy rust on your hub you may indeed have to pull the knuckle and get it pressed out.

Good luck,

-mark

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ASE Master Tech
71 280s
Whatever happens, don't freak out.

BTW, I'm assuming you've got the axles removed...

I know, I know, it's a real PITA.



-m

__________________
ASE Master Tech
71 280s
Whatever happens, don't freak out.

The Civic was fairly easy...........only two screws secure the rotor to the hub once the caliper mounting bracket is removed.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

rjnonnie, I'm pretty sure the 88 accord is a different design. Mark N, thanks for the detailed info. I'll have to remember that if I ever encounter one of these beasts again. I've thrown in the towel and will leave it to the professionals. She has enough money to deal with it, I just thought it wouldn't be so difficult. It is frustrating to spend so much time and get nothing done. Though to acheive ASE Master, I'm sure you've dealt with a lot of frustrating repairs.
Remove the driveaxle?! Sheesh.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Joshhol,

Sorry for any confusion. I guess it's typical for an auto manufacture to think of the auto mechanic last when designing vehicles.

I do recall removing the drive shaft on my 88 Accord when I replaced the CV boot. Once you initially do it, the subsequent attempts go a-lot smoother.

__________________
Ray
1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles
2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles
1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles

If they changed the design from the 89 Accord, then they screwed up. I just replaced the rotors and pads on mine and only took two beers!