Just bought a house down here with a pool. Looks like the waterpump timer is out so I have been turning it on manually. For you guys with pools, how long should the pump run per day? I ran it a lot the first week, just because the previous owner had let it go a bit.

Pool screens.....

Screening is easy enough to replace, but I must wonder how in the world do they replace those top screens? I have a section to replace, and don't want to end up in the "Darwin awards" section in next weeks rag. Any suggestions? Or just better to hire a pro?

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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold

All depends on the type of pump and filter. I have a sand filter which runs about 14 hrs a day. Diatomaceous filter you can run less since it filters better than sand. Let it run overnight and a couple hours during the day for a week or so, then see how it looks.

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma

I've had experience with diatom filters when I worked for a pool co.Very efficient.

We have an above ground but now dear wife and daughter are clamouring for an inground,I told them frankly that we could get and inground pool or a 50'yacht,they would both consume an equal amount of cash...........

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Big paper filter, looks like the filter for my benz....just bigger.

It is crystal clear now and can see to the bottom. So maybe just a couple hrs per day?

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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold

Depends on where you are, and the pool temp, and how much crud gets into your pool, and if it rains alot.

Generally, from the time the sun is really out (mid morning) to just before the sun is down (late late afternoon). Same for winter (since the water is colder, and the pool does not get used as much, the need for filtering isn't as great, so the hours can be reduced.)

A few hours is not enough.

Sand filters rule, but are big and bulky, and have that gasket that you have to get in there just so, or the darn thing leaks. Cartridge filters cost you more in the long run because...well, because you keep having to replace the cartridge once the bands around the pleats break.

I've never had a Diatomaceous earth filter myself. All I know is the "sand" they use is super super fine and reminds me of gray clay.

Good luck with your pool. Get a test kit, and keep an eye on your chlorine and your ph level. Check your total alkalinity about once every 3 months.

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

. . only run the filter two (2) hours a day. It's a small pool and only two (2) users.

Of course, the key to being able to run the the pump for two hours is the "gal/min" that your motor/pump combo can produce. My motor is 2HP with an oversize brass pump w/ a large agitator, so bottom line it turns the pool over every two hours.

Previously had a diatomaceous earth (DE) element filter (72 sq ft) and it did a great job. Filter properties are excellent; about 1 micron. Only needed to be backwashed about once a year; the bad news was it took all day and it was messy! BTW, in CA, DE is classified as cancenogenic, BION!

Currently using a 175 sq ft paper filter and I clean it every two months. Filters to 5 microns but with added synthetic DE, it filters to about 2 microns. Cleaning takes 15 mins with no mess.

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Regards . . . . JimF
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'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

There are more variables than a horse race analysis.

I find that hiring a pro is pretty cheap and easy for weekly maint.

I am also gonna look into a "salt water" setup, alot of info on line for that, you should check into it.

ron

I suggest using the same standard they have for large pools. State (KY) requires water to be cycled thru the system at least 3 times a day (more of course is better). Thus a 4,800 gal pool would have to pump 10 gallon per minute for 24 hours per day. That's 10 gpm times 60 minutes = 600 gph times 8 hours = 4,800 gallons. Check your chlorine and Ph a couple times a day. Target chlorine at 1.5 ppm (state requires 1.0-3.0 limits) and Ph at 7.5 (state wants 7.4 to 7.6). I like alkalinity around 70ppm. Sunlight and number of people in pool are the normal things that will consume chlorine. Stuff off the trees or rain are other factors. Water can go bad pretty fast. Water in those little kiddie pools should be changed or treated every couple of hours.
D.E. filters are on the way out. EPA is slowly getting rid of them. They do work great, especially when they are dirty. Really "polish" the water, but basically produce toxic waste. When our swim club rebuilt the facilities, we went from D.E. to high velocity sand filters (2 filters 8 foot dia and 7 foot high). We run over 900 gpm. You don't even want to know how much chlorine and acid we use in a season. Trick with all pools is to keep them managed. Don't let them get too far out of balance. That's the real problem with private pools, they really need considerable maintenance and supervision. Uncle used to figure his 16 x 32 foot pool cost him $100 per month just for chemicals and that was 15-20 years ago.
I tell people: "if you are not going to bother keeping control of your pool, please go jump in the river. It probably will actually be cleaner". Seriously, a home pool can be great in the warm weather if you keep after it, but geesh can it be bad news if ya don't. BTW, screening the whole thing is a great idea. Keeps out an awful lot of contaminants.

For a lightly used home pool, turning over the water once per day is generally acceptable. How long that takes of course depends on the size of your pool and how many gallons/minute the pump/filter flows.

It's important to get a handle on the chemistry as well. The basics are maintaining the PH and sufficient chlorine to keep the water sanitary. For PH, you need to keep the total alkalinity in the range of 80-120PPM. Lowes/HD sell big boxes of baking soda (yes!) for raising the total alkalinity. (TA acts as a chemical buffer to prevent PH bounce - rapid changes in PH.) Of course you'll need acid and/or base to adjust the PH. My pool only ever seems to need acid. I prefer dry acid because it's easier to handle. Keep the PH around 7.2-7.4 and you'll be OK. Too acidic and you can damage the pool or the equipment. To basic and you'll get scale formation, and the ability of the chlorine to work is impacted. Lastly, chlorine. There's bunches of ways to handle that. Use what works for ya - I have an inline feeder near the pump which holds a dozen chlorine pucks.

There's a good pool forum at http://www.poolforum.com

Good luck,

- JimY

Great info, thanks everybody.

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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold

A fifty footer cost lots more, much much more!!!! But I'd rather have the yacht than the pool.

But to the subject - the last inground I had, I switched to a "Nature's 2" device. I think it had silver something in it. Anyway, with it, you can run your chlorine real low; so low your eyes don't burn after being in the pool for an hour. Used it for over four years, with no problems. Chemistry does play an important role though - you need to test often and keep all parameters in their ranges.

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Thank You!
Fred
2009 ML350
2004 SL600
2004 SL500
1996 SL600
2002 SLK32
2005 CLK320 cabrio
2003 ML350
1997 C280 Sport

Well, there's a 50' wood hulled sloop made about 1949 for sale locally,hull's been done,drop dead gorgeous mahogany and teak interior,still has the period fittings which have been well restored including a nice brass-bowled hand pump head with basin and shower,like stepping back in time,galley has a coal fired range,like a museum.

It needs a new mainmast and sails,owner ran out of funds,selling to bail out,they told me $25,000.00 would make it mine.

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DE requires the pump to run all the time. The DE coats the filter elements and when the pump goes off, the DE falls off and the filters no longer filter until you coat them again (by adding DE to the skimmer).

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MB-less

Wow, that kinda detracts from the advantages of using DE. I would have thought the added efficiency would reduce filtering time and electricity demands. I have a time-of-day electric meter so power is cheaper at night and on weekends. I keep the pump off during peak hours.

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma

A high rate sand filter is the best and easiest to maintain.

I have never seen an electric meter that knows what time of day you use your power. Most get read once a month and just register total KWh. How does yours know when you are using electricity?

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MB-less