Bathroom Remodel Question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gmercoleza · #1 12-23-2005, 11:56 AM

OK, I've only been in the house about 1.5 years and the remodel bug has already hit me. I already built a wall and doorway to turn a formal living room into an office. Now I'm thinking of doing this stuff perhaps this spring or summer:

I want to reconfigure a poorly designed 1/2 bath and laundry room on the first floor/concrete slab (see picture HERE.) I'd like to basically turn the laundry room into a full third bath (with a doorway to my office), and relocate the washer/dryer to the existing 1/2 bath, sort of turning it into a laundry closet with or without door.

Problem is, everything is on concrete. Now I can deal with the washer/dryer and pedestal sink hookups, and I think I can figure out how to re-route the dryer vent. Some minimal wall movement and/or door width opening will be involved, which is no problem. I will pay someone to relocate the 220 electric dryer outlet (I could do it myself, but not feeling really brave).

The biggest question for me is, how do I relocate or tap into the toilet pipe? It's in concrete covered by ceramic tile - I already know I may have to redo all the tile, that's not the issue. Do I have to cut into the concrete and run new PVC pipe, or is there some other solution? I've thought of a raised floor under the relocated toilet, then "hide" the pipe along the wall. This could serve both the toilet and sink, and I could just put a raised floor under the washer/dryer (less stooping might even make things easier on our backs). But would that be considered generally acceptable in a residential setting? Any other ideas from the experts?

NOTE: The pedestal sink would most likely just flip-flop to the other side of the wall it's currently on. The doorway would be on the wall adjacent to it (going to the right in the image). The shower and toilet would go somewhere on the wall opposite that doorway, and the existing door would remain for dual access, though I would reverse the swing. The existing washroom door would go away, and I would widen the opening to make a laundry closet of sorts. The other door (opposite the existing washroom door) goes to the garage. To finish it all off, I would probably put a door in the opening at the bottom of the image.

NKowi · #2 12-23-2005, 12:21 PM

Houses on slabs are great - until it comes to a re-model job involving plumbing. I couldn't get your image to display, but it sounds like the plumbing you need to move/add is pretty much in one small area. If that's the case, bite the proverbial bullet, rent a jackhammer, and do the job right. Removing and re-pouring the floor is not really as PITA task as it sounds on the surface. Well, ok, it is, but...it's certainly do-able for any above average DIY'er. If you're keeping all those old Bencedes on the road yourself you should be able to tackle this job. Good luck!!!

TheDon · #3 12-23-2005, 12:22 PM

give me the specs of your space you have to play with and i can do something in architechtual desktop for ya

G-Benz · #4 12-23-2005, 01:57 PM

If your slab is a post-tension cable type, stay CLEAR of just hammering away unless you know where the cables reside! When the slab was poured, the cables were tightened to tensile forces ranging in TONS! Sever one of those, and you may likely be doing your LAST remodel!

gmercoleza · #5 12-23-2005, 02:05 PM

OK, link in my original post has been fixed, or you can just see the image below:

Approximate area is 6.5 x 14.

Good point about the cables in the foundation - how do I tell if I have those? This is a Centex home, about 6 years old.

gmercoleza · #6 12-29-2005, 11:25 AM

OK, this might sound really stupid... Is there such a thing as a combo shower/sink that could go in the place of the existing pedestal sink? the more I think about it, I really don't want to move the toilet, however it creates a really big bottleneck...

dannym · #7 12-29-2005, 11:49 AM

Have you ever seen post-tension in residential slabs?
I have only seen them in commercial buildings and then only on the top level not the bottom.

If you really want to be sure call Centex and ask, though they will probably think your crazy.

Danny

kerry · #8 12-29-2005, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmercoleza

OK, this might sound really stupid... Is there such a thing as a combo shower/sink that could go in the place of the existing pedestal sink? the more I think about it, I really don't want to move the toilet, however it creates a really big bottleneck...

I looked at units like that a few years ago when I was considering adding a bath to a rental apt I own. They were very expensive.

It would be cheaper to install a flip-up RV sink into a standard shower stall. I had a unit like that in my 307d motorhome and thought it was a creative solution to the sink/shower space problem.

gmercoleza · #9 12-29-2005, 03:04 PM

OK, I just came back from Home Depot and think I figured it out. I won't need to jackhammer at all. Here's what I'll do:

* Get a 38 inch corner entry shower ($275)
* Get an 18 9/16 inch wall mount sink ($25)
* Get a full-size laundry/slop sink ($40)
* Turn the toilet 90 degrees, leave it in the same place
* Push the wall out 22 inches (still leaves the adjacent bedroom a decent size at 9 x 13.5)
* Add 24-inch swinging door or pocket door for bedroom (dual) access
* Tile, drywall, and trim to finish.

The shower can be even cheaper if I just go with a standard 36 inch square base and a surround kit, just depends.

A picture is below. Any thoughts?

I kinda think a 9 x 13.5 bedroom is too small? Current size is nearly 11 x 13.5.

TX76513 · #10 12-29-2005, 03:30 PM

Indoor plumbing, that's a cool idea!