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  #1  
Old 12-24-2005, 10:46 PM
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Microwave tankless water heater.

This seemed interesting...although no price has been published.
Anyone have any other information on this product ?.

I have tried other tankless water heaters, but the flow rate is a little low on the electric ones.

http://www.pulsar-at.com/

.
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Last edited by dkveuro; 12-24-2005 at 11:35 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-24-2005, 11:00 PM
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No, but I like the idea! I sent them an email with a ton of questions.
I'd love to get rid of our tank. Our condo has a storage closet on the outside that also houses the water heater. I would guess that with this unit, I could rip the tank heater out, gain a bunch of space, and mount this microwave unit in the crawl space.
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Old 12-24-2005, 11:02 PM
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My thinking is in a RV of any size.
Was hoping to find what the amp load was but the site says nothing about spec's.

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  #4  
Old 12-24-2005, 11:06 PM
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Or a Boat Too! Great idea! A 12 gallon tank heater takes up a lot of precious space on a boat!
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Fred
2001 E430 Sport, 204,000 miles
1997 C280 Sport, 144,000 miles
1991 300SL, 189,000 miles
1987 420SEL, 149,000 miles
1986 190e 2.3 16v, 151,000
1968 W30 442, 78,000 miles
1988 46' US1 Cougar, 3 supercharged 572's
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/waybomb/
Warming the globe, 24 cylinders at a time
And I want a 126 wagon! Point me to one!
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  #5  
Old 12-25-2005, 12:00 AM
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Forgive me for using the dirty word, but I'm skeptical - not that microwave technology can be used to heat water (it can), but that it could be practically useful in such an application.

I don't see how this could help but be less efficient than a properly designed electric tankless water heater. Such heaters dump the vast majority of the power consumed into the water. Where could the free lunch come from?

I'd love to be proven wrong on this, though, so please post back here if and when some facts become available.
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  #6  
Old 12-25-2005, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkveuro
I have tried other tankless water heaters, but the flow rate is a little low on the electric ones.
Have you considered LP gas ones?
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Old 12-25-2005, 09:05 AM
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I'm a minimalist! Not!

But I am guessing that a microwave unit will be smaller and I'd never have to replace a resistance heating element again.
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Fred
2001 E430 Sport, 204,000 miles
1997 C280 Sport, 144,000 miles
1991 300SL, 189,000 miles
1987 420SEL, 149,000 miles
1986 190e 2.3 16v, 151,000
1968 W30 442, 78,000 miles
1988 46' US1 Cougar, 3 supercharged 572's
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/waybomb/
Warming the globe, 24 cylinders at a time
And I want a 126 wagon! Point me to one!
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  #8  
Old 12-25-2005, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eskimo
.........................

I don't see how this could help but be less efficient than a properly designed electric tankless water heater. Such heaters dump the vast majority of the power consumed into the water. Where could the free lunch come from?
................................
I think we need to see more spec's on energy consumption per litre/pint/quart per kw or however we measure 'lectricity nowadays.

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  #9  
Old 12-25-2005, 03:05 PM
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Electric resistance heating is 100% efficient. Heat pumps can be up to 600%, but they are big and complex, and efficiency goes down as the temperature change goes up. Generating radio waves from electricity and using them to heat something is less than 100% efficient, but it might be possible to do it in less space than a resistance unit.
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  #10  
Old 12-25-2005, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkveuro
I think we need to see more spec's on energy consumption per litre/pint/quart per kw or however we measure 'lectricity nowadays.

.
For existing tankless water heaters, specifications are already available, and the efficiencies are know to be very high. Units with significant capacity have walloping big power requirements simply because it takes that much power to effect the desired increase in temperature at the desired rate of flow.

For the "microwave water heater" mentioned in the opening post, I think the only specification available to us now is...

... that absolutely no specifications are available at this time!
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  #11  
Old 12-25-2005, 10:58 PM
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On boats and RV's you'd have to be plugged in to get long effective use. In both instances, I prefer propane tankless heaters. The only downside is they have to be vented but the smallest units are quite compact and very efficient. They can also be used as mini-boilers for hydronic heating if necessary.
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  #12  
Old 12-26-2005, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry edwards
On boats and RV's you'd have to be plugged in to get long effective use. In both instances, I prefer propane tankless heaters. The only downside is they have to be vented but the smallest units are quite compact and very efficient. They can also be used as mini-boilers for hydronic heating if necessary.
I'm not a boat or RV guy myself, so tell me - what sort of electrical service (voltage and current rating) is typically available when one is "plugged in"? That by itself would establish the maximum flow of hot water that could be had for a given temperature rise from a tankless electric unit.

That's why I, too, mentioned LP gas units. If heat's what one wants, then things that directly burn fossil fuels really pack a wallop.
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  #13  
Old 12-26-2005, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waybomb
I'm a minimalist! Not!
But I am guessing that a microwave unit will be smaller
Do you have any particular reason for guessing this? Do you know just how small existing tankless electric heaters already are?

Quote:
Originally Posted by waybomb
and I'd never have to replace a resistance heating element again.
Would you care to hazard a guess as to the long-term prospects for reliability of the magnetron and the associated electrical components of a high-power microwave unit?
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  #14  
Old 12-26-2005, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eskimo
I'm not a boat or RV guy myself, so tell me - what sort of electrical service (voltage and current rating) is typically available when one is "plugged in"? That by itself would establish the maximum flow of hot water that could be had for a given temperature rise from a tankless electric unit.

That's why I, too, mentioned LP gas units. If heat's what one wants, then things that directly burn fossil fuels really pack a wallop.

Don't know 'bout RVs, but depending on what size boat / slip, 30 amp 120VAC is the norm, and usually 40 foot slips and up will have 50 amp 240vac.
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Thank You!
Fred
2001 E430 Sport, 204,000 miles
1997 C280 Sport, 144,000 miles
1991 300SL, 189,000 miles
1987 420SEL, 149,000 miles
1986 190e 2.3 16v, 151,000
1968 W30 442, 78,000 miles
1988 46' US1 Cougar, 3 supercharged 572's
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/waybomb/
Warming the globe, 24 cylinders at a time
And I want a 126 wagon! Point me to one!
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  #15  
Old 12-26-2005, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waybomb
Don't know 'bout RVs, but depending on what size boat / slip, 30 amp 120VAC is the norm, and usually 40 foot slips and up will have 50 amp 240vac.
OK, now take a look at the specifications for even a quite low capacity residential tankless electric water heater. For example, got to SETS Systems and look at their model 110 "point of use" unit.

They describe that model as "ideal for secondary point of use application in warmer climates or in northern climates in the summer months". By "secondary point of use," they mean a single sink or low flow shower. See their chart for some idea of what one could expect with respect to input temperature, maximum output temperature, and rate of flow.

They're talking 60 A, 240 VAC for this. It takes a lot of power to heat up water "on the fly"!
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