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#1
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jack made a hole in the body !
I was changing the tire on my corolla and strangely enough the jack actually broke the underbody of the car and went through it. now there's a hole in the underbody. some body ! arghh...
well, i'm wondering how to get it fixed now. should i get it welded by going to a body shop or is there another simpler way to get the whole mended. thankx.
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Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford. |
#2
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could ;you
post a pic of it?
hard to tell much by verbal description. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
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well it's under the car. not sure if the pic would be visible but i'll try to take one tomorrow
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Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford. |
#4
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Not supposed to jack them up from their. MB's will do the same thing. If it is a newer car with some value I'd get it welded. For an older car just fiberglass it.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#5
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Very interesting. What year model is the car? Was the jack located on the floor panel, rather than the frame? Hattaras is correct with his statement. Putting that much weight on a floor panel is trouble.
Good luck - we will look forward to the photos and model year of the car.
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2004 Toyota Sequoia Limited 4wd 1991 Lincoln Town Car Executive 1991 Cadillac Sedan DeVille 1988 Mercedes 300SEL 1972 Chevrolet Caprice Kingswood Estate 9-passenger wagon 1973 Pontiac Grand Ville (Prior MB's: 1974 240D, 1985 380SE, 1984 190D, 1993 400SEL) |
#6
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Look on the bright side, you screwed up when you were using a jack (?) and you're still alive and well, typing messages here at ShopForum!
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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi |
#7
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it's a 96 corolla,
yes I am thankful to Allah that I'm safe and sound. I didnt have the tire off when this happened. I'll try to take some pics but weather out there isnt all that great today. I liked the idea of using fiberglass to fill it out so I'll be visiting the local autobody shop to get some solution as well. thanx again everyone for the great input.
__________________
Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford. |
#8
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Quote:
Next time ask Allah where the owners manual is, you could have avoided this mess altogether now. |
#9
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@n8nod..,
I'll ignore your comment. as for the owner's manual, the jack had slipped hence dislocated from the original point of where the car jack should've been positioned. perhaps you'll think a bit before posting in future.
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Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford. |
#10
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If it's a non-structural panel, (and I hope it isn't if the jack is all it takes to punch through!) here's what I'd do, given that the car probably isn't worth a big dollar welding repair (most of which will be removing carpeting and interior around the weld area so you don't burn the car to the ground)(and don't forget how vicious flammible some undercoat is, like creosote). First, you should hammer the panel flat or back to it's original shape, leaving a seam or tear to fix. Then you need to mechanically re-join the metal along the tear line(s). This can be done by welding, or use patch pieces of sheet metal and pop rivets. I cut my patch pieces to size, then butter the area where it will lay over the floor metal with flexible seam sealer. This stuff is like glue, stays flexible, and does the job of waterproofing the repaired seam. Fibreglass will crack after time and leave you open to water penetration, but it's an option I guess if you are careful to clean the metal thoroughly. After many years of fixing rust holes in old floors, I've gone over to rivets and seam sealer, since it's easier, faster, and the repair usually outlasts the surrounding metal. You don't have a rust issue here though, but flexing of floor metal is always a problem, so take this for what its worth as an option.
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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus |
#11
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I agree with the metal patch/sealer/pop rivets fix. Pop riveting is a GREAT invention. Not extremely strong, but strong enough and easy to do. And this is a repair that will not be very visible.
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86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#12
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i agree
assuming it is just floor pan and not structural shapes such as rocker area.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#13
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yea it's the floor pan.
__________________
Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford. |
#14
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Did that with a Z-24 years ago (almost). Couldn't figure out why the car wasn't lifting off the ground until I stopped, opened the passenger door and saw that the passenger-side floorboard had been raised considerably!
I lowered the jack and stomped the floorboard down until it was normal...I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to deform that area...not much metal to it. Fiberglass is kind of a pain to use if you never have tried it. Have a welder patch a piece of metal onto the damaged area and coat it with roofing sealer to prevent rust...
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#15
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Duct tape?
I mean, it is a 10-year-old Corolla.
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