What type of refrigerant is typically in refrigerators, window A/C units, freezers, etc.? I'm guessing R22? Or maybe evil R12? Will standard schrader-based manifold gauges attach properly to pull vacuum and read pressures? Has anyone ever filled with R134a and PAG?

TIA

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

You guessed right, it's R22. If I recall the fittings are the same as R12 (screw on type not quick release).

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Ray
1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles
2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles
1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles

I thought that older appliances used the R12 freon...

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-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

Depends on how old and what it does. I had a small bar fridge and it used r-134a. I thought i read somewhere that freezers use r-22

Can R22 be bought with a 609? If not, are there any alternative drop-ins that can be purchased with a 609 and used in its place? What type of oil is compatible? Anyone ever convert to R134A successfully?

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

608 certification will get you R22. 608=HVAC, 609=MVAC

I bought 30lbs R22 a few years back for $70. I priced 30lbs of 134a the other day and I think they said $175? I was just checking and don't remember. I am guessing that 30lbs R22 would be in that range now.

This I am pullling off of the top of my head and never had much experience with, old refrigerators were often R12 but had less than a pound of refrigerant. Small old window units were R12 and had a little more ref. Larger window units were R22.

I only mess with this stuff when something needs work and don't keep current. The 608 certification was easy enough and cheap enough that I would recommend it to anyone with moderate DIY aptitude.

You might like this old thread:
DIY Home-Residential HVAC (A/C) Anyone?

I'm behind the times as usual.

The domestic refrigeration unit my Grandfather had installed here uses SO2,{sulfur dioxide}.
Although there are several dust-covered canisters of this in the workshop,to my knowledge only periodic oiling and cooling belt replacement has been the only required maintenance in 75 years of use.

My '84 300 turbo-diesel WAS successfully converted to 134 however,has the quick disconnect fittings,large on the low side and small on the high side,have to charge it with a small canister yearly to have it function properly,something with the high-pressure hoses leaking the finer 134 molecules or something.

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Thanks! I saw that thread a few days ago. Anytime it heats up here in TX I start thinking of A/C repair, whether or not there's any needed at the time. How much did it cost to take the 608 test? Any books you would recommend? Could I get them at Barnes & Noble? How hard was the test and where would I go to take it?

I am an IT professional and have no problem studying for a couple weeks and then "cramming" a test. I did my CCNA, A+, and Microsoft MCSE tests this way. Sometimes it's the only way when you have a family and a full-time job. Am I a good candidate for the 608 test?

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

That is exactly the kind of test taking I am talking about.

I spent a little extra through the local Johnstone dealer for the 608 test prep and they tested me also. I think I spent a little under a $100, $79? or so, test fees included. This was several years ago in Bangor, ME. The certification is through Mainstream Engineering Corporation.

This is link to a bunch of exam info at Mainstream:
http://www.epatest.com/

This may be the very kit that I bought:
http://www.epatest.com/q_608certinfo.html

Here is a link to the EPA exam overview:
http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/technicians/certoutl.html

It is important to develop a relationship with a local distributor so that they will give you the good prices instead of treating you like an outsider and protecting the local contractors. Johnstone is on the high side but they are a nationwide chain and I have an account that can be accessed over the net or at any local dealer. They have some good sales sometimes too.

I bought an expensive book at a local bookstore and later found about the same book at used bookstores for next to nothing. You might get lucky. An older book for the fundamentals is fine, Laws of Physics don't change often. Newer smaller cheaper books for regulations and recent developments may be the way to go.

I still like to read about geothermal heat pumps. I recently read that R134a is on its way out, to be replaced by CO2.

BTW, I think most small appliances are now 134a.

609 MVAC testing is still $15 or $20 and is an open book, online test.

I don't know what you're talking about. Ours uses a big block of ice.

Thats the method I am employing. My home AC compressor just took a dump...

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-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

A bit off topic -- I get a kick out of my propane/electric reefer that I got from a buddy who had it in an old RV conversion that he was junking. I keep at my warehouse/shop.

Thing has no moving parts, converts heat into ice, and the noxious chemicals it uses are hydrogen gas and ammonia.

Too bad they're less efficient than compressor type refrigs cause this thing is totally SILENT.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K