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#1
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Hot Water Heater Question
I figured I'd ask this here since you all seem like a smart bunch of DIYers (I'd like to include myself as well someday). Does anybody have any experience with these. Mine is at least 12 year's old, and it's a power ventilated tank. The gas pressure switch needs replacing ($50 part), there's a lot of sediment in the bottom and I doubt the anode rod has ever been replaced, so I figured I might as well replace it than put money into it. (I swear I smell gas coming from the thermostat as well.) So, is it worth replacing? Does anybody know a good brand and is this a DIY job or is it worth having a plumber do it? I'm confident working on my car, but plumbing would be sort if new to me. Although you do have to start somewhere I guess. I got a quote from a plumber of $950 for a 40 gal. Bradford White heater installed. This does look like a very nice heater, but still that seems a little high. I've read not so good reviews about the Lowe's / Home Depot brands. I thank you for any input.
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#2
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If you can work on your car, you should be able to work on your hot water heater, although some cities forbid you from doing so.
I'd replace the switch and flush it out. I've never replaced an anode. Unless the hot water heater is leaking, I consider them worthy of replacement parts unless it's a giant pile of rust. I've replaced a number of hot water heaters. Most take a couple of hours and I don't think I've ever paid more than about $300 even for very high BTU heaters. A gas sniffer could help you identify whether or not you have a leak. Of course soapy water is also a useful test in many conditions.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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You can also flush with citric acid to remove the majority of the scale and return a relative measure of efficiency to an otherwise worn-out unit.
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#4
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If you are looking to replace the water heater(there is no such thing as a 'hot water heater') look at the tankless kind. I have had 2 on them in my house for nearly 20 years had have only had to spend about $$40 each over that time. They aren't cheap, about $750 for the big one, but the savings in gas more than makes up for it.
The only problem I had initially was that since we never ran out of hot water the kids would take 2 hr. showers. The nice thing is that all you have to do is turn the unit off and within 10 seconds the bath is over. The 2 I have are made by Paloma. They are made in Japan and are all stainless and brass. Very well made and dead easy to replace the rubber diaphragm. |
#5
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Quote:
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#6
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Isn't it redundant to heat hot water?
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1993 300E 2.8 185k miles 2006 Mustang Convertible 4.0 Eaton Supercharged |
#7
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You would have to make few modifications but none is difficult and the result is worth the effort.
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#8
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i'll also go with the tankless.you might even check with your utility company they might offer a rebate or a tax credit.
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#9
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Hot water can continue to be heated until it becomes steam so I guess it depends on how hot hot is.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
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I've replaced a couple of gas heaters. No big thang. Have a pipe wrench and a big crescent or two. Need to be careful with the gas of course, the shut-off valve is self explanatory, when the arm is in line with the pipe, the flow is on, when the arm is perpindicular to the pipe, the flow is shut off.
Get some paste, called pipe dope (who knows why) that's rated for gas. It's more reliable than the teflon tape IMO. Before you turn it back on, have a spray bottle filled with a mild soapy solution, turn it on and spray the gas fittings liberally with it (damn liberals). Just like with a tire, a leak will create bubbles. You might be able to find a large steel yard that'll take your old tank for free unless the city will pick it up for nothing. $950 does seem steep. I believe the Home Despot units are around $400. That's a nice $550 paycheck for a few hours work.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#11
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Home Depot quoted me ~$700 for a normal gas 40G; the power vent was an extra ~$180.
I concur about the HD horror stories. There's a thread in here somewhere about the fun I had with them. |
#12
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Thanks for the input guys. I thought about going tankless, but the chances of us still living here a few years from now are pretty slim, so I'm not really sure it's worth it. I tried flushing it out last year (took the drain valve right out to get a nice big hole) but I was only able to clean it out around the hole. Maybe I'll try sticking a hose in the top to really flush it out with the citric acid - we have pretty hard water. Whether I replace it or fix it, I'm pretty confident I can do it myself now, the only problem is I'm getting a little resistence from the wife. As soon as anything goes wrong with something she wants to buy new and she's scared of working on gas and electricity, thinks it should be handled by an expert (which can be a pretty loose term). The only thing that really concerned me with mine was the gas smell coming from the thermostat. I found a very small leak in a pipe connection with the soapy water, but I don't think the soapy water will work if the thermostat is leaking internally somewhere. I'm guessing a thermostat would be pretty pricey, so maybe I'll find a gas sniffer somewhere to check for sure. If it leaks, I think I'll get a Lowe's brand heater and install myself. This is one of those situations where I'm pretty sure I can do it myself and save a bunch of money, but I'm tempted to bite the bullet and pay somebody else to deal with it.
Quote:
Are gas detectors fairly accurate as far as locating the leak, and where would I find one? |
#13
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Quote:
$880 for the power vent. That's got to be installed right? |
#14
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I bought mine on Ebay. You may be able to rent one. They have adjustable sensitivity which can detect extremely small leaks. I set the sensistivity by playing around with it at the pilot on my gas cookstove.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#15
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when we first built our house i had a normal 40 gal gas unit. four kids me and mrs w. it turns out i was always last in the shower in the morning. invariably the hot was luke.
so i did some research and ended up installing a 75 gal commercial with a burner, that is three or four times normal size. but i had this 90 pound thirteen year old who would just live in the shower. so occasionally i would still get luke water. now though it is empty nest except for our dweller in the basement apartment. i really need to go down and turn the heat down on it. i just checked and it is on less than half its highest capacity temp.! it is a kick as$ heater though! tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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