You should be good to go. Leave one side open until you have installed the shower and run some water thru it and tested for leaks. If it were me, when I put the pipe back together to connect to the sink, I'd put a cleanout right under the sink for easy access.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

What do you mean by a cleanout? An access panel? I will be making one for the other side, if that's what you mean...

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

No, a T with a plug in it sticking out of the wall so you can simply unscrew the plug and put a snake in it. That way you wont have to feed the snake thru the traps of the shower or sink to get it into the line when it plugs up.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Whoops - saw that a little too late - it is already done. That's a great idea - I think I will put one in the run that goes to the shower. I'll put it right next to the elbow coming off the T.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

OK, it's all done and I have 100% confidence in the remaining connections I made.

Now a new question - I noticed the pipes going to the sink (in the pic) are only 1/2 inch. I planned on tapping those lines to feed the shower. Is that going to provide enough flow? I think we use 2 GPM water-saving shower heads here - is this supply going to be sufficient? Or do I now have to chisel below the surface and tap into the water lines there?

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

One other thing - see that thin yellow tube that runs horizontally across the pipes? I accidently ripped it while working on all this stuff. Any idea what that is?

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

I'd just use the half inch. No idea on that yellow line.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I agree with Kerry........just tap into the 1/2" lines.......you'll be fine.

The yellow tube appears to be similar to the tubes used for radiant floor heating. Got any of that in the house?

If you run water down your sink and the fittings you put in don't leak then there is no need to worry about your connections. You sure did put pleanty of primer on the PVC pipes.

1/2" water pipe is normal for a shower and will provide pleanty of flow. You don't to install a cleanout since you can remove the trap below the sink to get a snake down there if you need to.

The yellow tube looks like an air tube, no idea what it is used for.

__________________
Ray
1998 Mercedes E320, 200K Miles
2001 Acura 3.2TL, 178K Miles
1992 Chevy Astro, 205K Miles

Yeah, the yellow might be an air line. Who knows?

Looks like good work. I'll bet the squeak was something else. I don't think the joint would squeak even if it wasn't perfect.

If, perish forbid, there is some moisture coming out in that region, since it's only a drain -- very low pressure -- get some Sikaflex or other polyurethane caulking and fill up the area with it. The stuff is way tenacious, dries to a hard rubber like consistency. The only thing that harms it is UV, or so they say, and you won't have that problem. If used outside, paint protects it.

__________________
1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Very cool - thanks to all the great help on this forum, and I mean EVERYONE who helped me out. It never ceases to amaze me the amount of talent on this board, and not just with MBZs.

I think I figured out what the yellow tube is. We have something called "Hometeam" pest control here which the builder includes when constructing the house. It consists of tubing that runs through the house, particular through "damp" areas where bugs are prone to hide out. Outside the house, there are a couple of little boxes about the size of a light switch discreetly mounted on the brick. They have fittings where the pest control company can hook up and pump some sort of mixture through the house to critical areas without entering. We personally don't use the service, but I will attempt a repair of this little hose for the next guy, in case I ever sell. Who knows - maybe a MBZ vacuum line and fitting will work - how apropos!

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

I ran the sink for about 15 minutes and checked the suspect joint, all the concrete dust around it is still light and fluffy powder, with no evidence of moisture. I think I'm home free. But I am still thinking of caulking with that stuff just to be safe.

Interestingly, before I cut this pipe open we went through the upstairs of the house turning on sinks and showers, etc. and I couldn't hear any water flowing through the pipe at all. The only thing that caused a swishing noise down this pipe was the sink hooked directly to it (the one in the pic). So it would seem that this pipe is more of a vent pipe, and the only fixtures actually draining into it will be the sink and the new shower.

I'm not worried anymore - I think I will still caulk it for good measure, then seal everything up and forget about it.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

If you're going to put anything on it for good measure (and I don't think you need to), I'd use epoxy and not caulk.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I wouldn't put anything on it for good measure. If the joint was properly coated with the glue, it won't leak unless the pipe fractures.

Adding external sealant that doesn't have a place to fill, will not be effective.

The outside sealant is designed to fill the gap in his mind, not the gap in the pipe.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13