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  #1  
Old 04-11-2007, 10:47 AM
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What to look for on a W116?

I have found a W116 350SEL and I am mot really familiar with these cars, what should I look out for as far as Mechanial and Body Issues?

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90 350SDL (Rudolph)
91 350SDL (300SDL drivetrain)
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  #2  
Old 04-11-2007, 11:04 AM
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RUST is the biggest enemy of these cars. Look carefully for it. The 3.5 motor was thought to be one of the very best for these cars.

Have it looked over for mechanical, electrical, HVAC and body integrity issues.
Make sure it runs and tracks down the road well. They are large, comfortable and safe cars, and when they first came out in 1973 they were far, far ahead of the rest of the pack in safety innovations, having been modeled on the ESV (experimental safety vehicle).

A polished one in good condition still looks imposing today. Gas economy is not a strong point, but longevity, durability, comfort, prestige, build quality, availability of spare parts, and ease of repair are all strong points with them.

They excel at long distance highway cruising, at high speed, but are not a good choice for big city runabout use.
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  #3  
Old 04-11-2007, 11:09 AM
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Other than the rust issue, the 3.5 might have a timing chain issue as well I think. But beyond that I really can't think of any reason not to buy one.

- Peter.
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  #4  
Old 04-11-2007, 11:18 AM
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Thanks for the input so far, what areas should I look for rust, living in Toronto rust most likely will be an issue!
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OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE CLOSER THAN THEY APPEAR, ONLY IN A BENZ

89 560SEC
90 350SDL (Rudolph)
91 350SDL (300SDL drivetrain)
87 BMW 635CSi (Swanhild)
89 BMW M6 (euro)
99 Suzuki Hayabusa (Only the fastest thing ever)
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  #5  
Old 04-11-2007, 11:36 AM
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Interior floors, under the wheel arch chrome, jacking points, rocker panels, around the windshield and rear window, bottom of fenders, in wheel wells, trunk floor, around the rear license plate area, the entire undercarriage, bumper surface and mounting points to the body, the tinworm is merciless against these cars, the best ones are from dry climates like Southern California, Texas, and Arizona where there is no snow
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1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)
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  #6  
Old 04-11-2007, 11:54 AM
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Does the gasser have the same climate control servo as the diesel? If so, look closely at it. Replacements are about $900. They fail frequently but there is a replacment computerized upgrade available for around $600.
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  #7  
Old 04-11-2007, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pj67coll View Post
Other than the rust issue, the 3.5 might have a timing chain issue as well I think. But beyond that I really can't think of any reason not to buy one.

- Peter.
That would be the 3.8 with the chain issue. The 3.5 is an iron block like the 4.5.
Extremely reliable, and long lived like the diesels. I believe a 350 is euro spec and would have manual cliamate controls. If not too rusty, I would rate it a buy.
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  #8  
Old 04-11-2007, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
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If not too rusty, I would rate it a buy.
Thats what I was thinking and since hes only asking $1000 CDN that seems like a bargain, but I wont know till I see the car!
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OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE CLOSER THAN THEY APPEAR, ONLY IN A BENZ

89 560SEC
90 350SDL (Rudolph)
91 350SDL (300SDL drivetrain)
87 BMW 635CSi (Swanhild)
89 BMW M6 (euro)
99 Suzuki Hayabusa (Only the fastest thing ever)
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  #9  
Old 04-11-2007, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 635CSi View Post
Thats what I was thinking and since hes only asking $1000 CDN that seems like a bargain, but I wont know till I see the car!
Do be carefull though, if you test drive it you WILL want to buy it. Until you test drive a 116, you would not believe a big tank of a car can handle and corner like a sports car, rust be dammed!
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1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

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  #10  
Old 04-11-2007, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wodnek View Post
Do be carefull though, if you test drive it you WILL want to buy it. Until you test drive a 116, you would not believe a big tank of a car can handle and corner like a sports car, rust be dammed!
A 2 ton sports car.
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  #11  
Old 04-11-2007, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wodnek View Post
Do be carefull though, if you test drive it you WILL want to buy it. Until you test drive a 116, you would not believe a big tank of a car can handle and corner like a sports car, rust be dammed!
Oh don't get me wrong here my dad had a 79 300SD and that was an amazing car, but I was young and didn't really pay to much attention to problems such as rust. I can only imagine what a difference it would be to drive a non diesel W116.
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OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE CLOSER THAN THEY APPEAR, ONLY IN A BENZ

89 560SEC
90 350SDL (Rudolph)
91 350SDL (300SDL drivetrain)
87 BMW 635CSi (Swanhild)
89 BMW M6 (euro)
99 Suzuki Hayabusa (Only the fastest thing ever)
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2007, 07:58 PM
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On the w116, I think that there is an area at the bottom of the cowl that functions as some type of mounting point for a front suspension component. Supposedly if this area is corroded the car is dangerous. I'm relying on a really fuzzy memory on this, but I would stroll over to the Vintage section of this site and repeat the topic question.You might find a more precise response.
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2007, 08:46 PM
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If the rust is confined to the rockers and drivers side floor boards (both very common), you can get aftermarket rockers for $75 a side. The floors aren't too terribly complicated to rebuild. For some reason though the drivers side floor loves to rust, while the passenger side can be solid.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
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1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
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2007 GL CDI. Wifes

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  #14  
Old 04-11-2007, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wodnek View Post
If the rust is confined to the rockers and drivers side floor boards (both very common), you can get aftermarket rockers for $75 a side. The floors aren't too terribly complicated to rebuild. For some reason though the drivers side floor loves to rust, while the passenger side can be solid.
I always figured that was because the car leans to the left over its lifetime because of the shocks and subsequent spring wear causing the water to gravitate in that direction. I wonder if it holds true inversely for RHD cars?

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