ceramic tile install - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brian Carlton · #16 11-07-2007, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

YOur situation with ply plus luan is hopeless in terms of ever getting anything to last long term. Moisture susceptable and too flexible. So it is against all rules.

But if I wanted to limp along and just do a temporary repair that might last a few years I would glue the tile down with epoxy and use silicone to caulk the joints. When the silicone dries it looks very much like natural grout.

Tom W

Yes, I know it's marginal. It's lasted 15 years.........barely..........but, the problems are beginning to surface. My hope was the mastic would allow movement of the floor without causing the tiles to crack or dislodge from the floor. It's quite flexible. But, getting it to dry...............

If they'll dry, I'm preparing to fully grout the floor again............and I bet I can get another 15 years out of it.

Matt SD300 · #17 11-07-2007, 10:23 AM

Since your dead set on a mastic repair....grout it aready....the grout will hold the tile in place...........

Brian Carlton · #18 11-07-2007, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt SD300

Since your dead set on a mastic repair....grout it aready....the grout will hold the tile in place...........

Well, I've already done the mastic repair and am just awaiting the stuff to dry. I really don't want to rip it all out and start again. I was just curious as to why it takes a week to dry? I was using quite a heavy amount of mastic so that the tiles would be at the approximate height of the existing tiles (on thinset). This might be part of the problem.

I'll definitely grout it as soon as the tiles take some kind of set........if they're moving all over the place, I don't think that grouting it would be a wise idea.

John Doe · #19 11-07-2007, 10:33 AM

Brian, a very basic, possibly ignorant question: are you letting the mastic properly cure and become 'tacky' before setting your tile? If you put down tile over mastic that hasn't off-gassed, it will never dry.

Matt SD300 · #20 11-07-2007, 10:39 AM

Why not just pull the tiles and clean them up, apply some thinset, and be done with it!...

Brian Carlton · #21 11-07-2007, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Doe

Brian, a very basic, possibly ignorant question: are you letting the mastic properly cure and become 'tacky' before setting your tile? If you put down tile over mastic that hasn't off-gassed, it will never dry.

That's interesting, JD. The instructions say to work relatively quickly and prevent the mastic from "skinning over". If it does skin, it should be removed and new mastic applied.

I'm finding the "never dry" to be very close to the current situation.

I may have to remove them and use the thinset.............but, at the moment...........about 40 of the 51 tiles are secure enough to grout. They can still be moved slightly, but cannot be lifted.

Brian Carlton · #22 11-07-2007, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt SD300

Why not just pull the tiles and clean them up, apply some thinset, and be done with it!...

.........that's the fallback position.........

John Doe · #23 11-07-2007, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

That's interesting, JD. The instructions say to work relatively quickly and prevent the mastic from "skinning over". If it does skin, it should be removed and new mastic applied.

I'm finding the "never dry" to be very close to the current situation.

I may have to remove them and use the thinset.............but, at the moment...........about 40 of the 51 tiles are secure enough to grout. They can still be moved slightly, but cannot be lifted.

Mastic may have changed since I was in the biz. I had to replace a basketball gym floor for this reason once. Just trying to offer a simple angle over the din of, "do it over, use a product you already said you didn't want to use, you're a jackass, ect...."

John Doe · #24 11-07-2007, 10:56 AM

Hell, for that few tiles, what about liquid nails?

Brian Carlton · #25 11-07-2007, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Doe

Hell, for that few tiles, what about liquid nails?

I've got a bit of a height problem. A thin adhesive will leave the tiles too low when compared to the remaining floor.

The heavy application of the adhesive is hurting the drying capability.........for sure............it's about 3/16" thick.

I may just wait it out..........most of the tiles are OK at the present time.

Got the heat turned up and the lights on in the bath to keep the temperature well above 70.

Brian Carlton · #26 11-07-2007, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Doe

Mastic may have changed since I was in the biz. I had to replace a basketball gym floor for this reason once. Just trying to offer a simple angle over the din of, "do it over, use a product you already said you didn't want to use, you're a jackass, ect...."

I've had this same problem in the past with this mastic. I believe it's an inherent liability for the product.

I'll never use it again..........for sure.

Skid Row Joe · #27 11-07-2007, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I've had this same problem in the past with this mastic. I believe it's an inherent liability for the product.

I'll never use it again..........for sure.

Why not, just when you're getting the hang of it??...... LMAO!

Whiskeydan · #28 11-07-2007, 12:03 PM

I believe the substrate dictates what adhesive to use. I would only use thinset with a masonry substrate. Mastic on plywood.

The mastic HAS to be spread thin with the proper 'notched' trowel.