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  #1  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:00 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
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Location: Milford, CT
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1995 Jetta problems...

I posted on the VWvortex forum, and have gotten decent response, but you guys will probably know more!

Here is the problem:
1995 Jetta 2.0, with 137k miles.(auto)
I have done the following over the last couple of weeks:
Timing belt, I checked the timing three times its dead nuts.
Cam and distributer seals
Serp belt
oil+filter
fuel filter
air filter
Spark plugs
I cleaned the throttle body, the egr pipe, the intake manifold, and replaced all the broke and leaking vacuum lines.
The PO did the alt, plug wires, battery, and V belt about a year ago.
The distibuter cap and rotor have some time on them, and I ordered replacements they should be arriving next week. But for now I just cleaned them up.

The problem is the CE light is on, I thought I caused it but I didn't get that lucky. I disconnected the battery and tried to clear it but no luck. When the engine is cold its fine, but as it heats up it skips and begins to run like its down a cylinder. Eventualy it gets to the point where it wants to stall. I know I need to read the codes, I'm going to try to do that tomarrow night.

I hope its not the MAF, they cost $250!

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  #2  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:13 PM
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VW used to have a box that was tied into the speedo cable, that would automatically have the light come on every 15 k miles. It would be behind the firewall - the area where you would find the wiper mechanism, and the blower for the cabin.
I don't know for how long they used this gadget, but what the heck...thought I would mention it - maybe you'll get lucky.
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  #3  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:14 PM
I miss my MBZ
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Those 2.slows arent that fragile a motor.

make sure the PO didnt mess up the new plug wires when putting them on (fully seated, not crimped or bent....)


Post again when you have a code. I think that Autozone will read them for free if they have a spare guy behind the counter...

-John
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  #4  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:23 PM
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O2 sensor(s)? Check their wiring for shorts/breaks.
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  #5  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:42 PM
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Check the coolant temperature sensor
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:49 PM
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On some of these cars the CEL light comes on if the gas cap isn't screwed on completely.....
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2007, 11:20 PM
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Yeah I double checked the wires, and gas cap. I can't really do anything until I read the code, chances are its going to be the most expensive sensor possible!
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  #8  
Old 11-17-2007, 11:40 PM
I miss my MBZ
 
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If you didn't get the rash of 16 y/o's on vortex then there is great wisdom there. I hang out on a local VW board and I don't hear of 2.slow MAF's failing (VR6 - yes, 2.0 - no) - the 2.0 is usually pretty bulletproof (even if attached to a lousy quality car =)

There is an OBD-II code for "cylinder misfire" that will light the CEL - this will only confirm what you already know - it starts missing on one cyl. and runs rougher and rougher. Hpoefully there are other codes locked in.

When this happened to my then-girlfriend's Neon- (and her friend's civic...) new plug wires did the trick.

Changing characteristics as the engine gets warmer does point to a bad coolant temp sensor (as already mentioned) but I've never heard of one of those causing a cyl to stop firing. As I remember my brother's Bentley (he has a VR6...) it said something like "If the ECT doesnt see a correct Engine coolant temp then it will set mixture as if the coolant temp was 210*F..." - that was the VR6 motor though (be only slightly glad that you don't have a VR6...)

-John
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  #9  
Old 11-17-2007, 11:46 PM
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Well it feels like if you pulled a plug wire off a cylinder, than above 3k it will clear out. Rev it again and it will catch. Also the throttle response is lazy, and at idle it will run rough, slow down and want to die.

The wires are pretty recent, and I cannot see arching. I did just change the spark plugs but I used the proper tool to grab them at the base. It was running very poorly before, because the old spark plugs had half of their electrodes gone and were three times the gap they should be!

It sounds like its either the wires or the coolant temp sensor. It runs so well when its cold I'm leaning towards that.

I have a Bentley for it I need to read up.

The VW forum is decent, a ton of kids though. You have to be willing to through the posts to get the golden nuggets.
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2007, 12:10 AM
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I had a similar issue with a 93 Cabriolet, ran great for 20 minutes, then the idle changed, it would stumble and barely run. I replaced everything except the 02 sensor and never did find the issue. My european car specialist made 2 suggestions: put a Weber on it or sell it, the Digifant injection is a can of worms, he called it Digifart. I sold it to a kid who fancied himself a mechanic...
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  #11  
Old 11-18-2007, 05:02 PM
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Does that model have a coil that could be heating up and going bad?
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  #12  
Old 11-18-2007, 06:23 PM
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We got two codes. One was for the first injectors wiring, the plug wasn't pushed down all the way. I pulled it off to change the spark plug and didn't reconnect it properly. At least it was an easy fix.

The second code was 4411 for the cam position sensor? Not sure on that one.

Its running a lot better now, so I'm going to get it registered and on the road. It won't pass emissions with the CE light on so I'm going to see if that code clears itself, if not I guess I need a new sensor. We were messing with a lot of the wiring in the engine bay, so sometime this week when I get some time I'm goingto find that sensor clean it up, and check the wiring.


I found some records it seems the wire's, along with the entire exhuast including the cats (probably O2 sensors as well?)were replaced in 2004. The wires look really good and we ran it in the dark and did not see any arcing.

When the cap and rotor arrive from Phil I'll pop them on and see if it improves at all. But the engine is running 100% better than when we got it.

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