![]() |
need to semi-insulate unfinished garage cheaply and quickly
Ok, now that it's time to fix my truck, I've come to the grim realization that I'm going to be spending some serious time in the garage (in the really cold wisconsin climate)
I bought an 80,000 BTU propane trash can cooker, and a 20lb cylinder. It bairly raises the temperature, and frosts up the cylinder at the highest setting... I've got a 2.5 garage, open rafters, no insulation... How can i insulate this thing cheaply, and quickly? Budget of around $150 I was thinking of getting some 2" pinkboard, and making a "ceiling"... Dont know if that's the best way, but, it's an idea please let me know what you think ~Nate |
IIRC, the R12 insulation isn't that expensive, but I don't know if it can be used in the ceiling (don't know why it wouldn't). I insulated my parents' garage walls with it, and I think it was decently priced.
|
For 150 your best off just insulating yourself. There is some long underwear in the rafting... world that is polypropylene on the inside and wool on the outside, that should eat up about half your budget... then think layered socks and layered gloves. An insulated Carhart jump suit is about right for rolling around in the grease.
|
Cheap? Broken down cardboard boxes, old blankets and clothes, hay.
Watch out for open flames. |
how about some typar house wrap!!
|
Try contacting a contractor/re-modeler. I toss out a lot of insulation in the course of demolition on my projects. I would have no problem giving the stuff to someone who needed it. You need to find a house that is being rebuilt from fire or water damage. Another good source may be Servpro or another insurance damage cleanup service. Call around, you might be able to get it all for free. RT
|
Well probably cost more than the 150, but not as bad as you think.
Get some R-11 and do the walls, do the R-19 in the ceiling. I like the idea of using the pink board to create a ceiling, either nailing them to the underside of the rafters. Or just laying them on top, then put the insulation on top of that. You want to create a reasonably airtight area, not to suffocate, but no major drafts. What you save on propane, and frozen fingers will make up the difference REAL quick. Maybe even for now, use some plastic to isolate and insulate just half the garage. |
Instead of pink board I would install fiberglass with visqueen between it and the drywall. Pink board is very flamable and vulnerable to being dented or broken. drywall is fire resistant. your life is worth more than risking fire. if you can't do it up right put on more clothing and aim the salamander at yourself. with proper insulation it won't take much heat.
YOu won't be able to do it for 150 but it isn't that expensive. spend what you have and borrow a couple of hundred from your folks or other loved ones. They will want you to be safe. Good luck. |
returned the 80k btu one after it made the shop go from 15* to 35* in 4 hours
spend another $25 and got the 200k btu one. It's a trash can cooker, not a salamander. Shop went from around 30 to 60 in 30 min, I'm sure it used a ton of propane, but hell it was nice working. I got a great 3 hours of labor in before I had to come in and eat... and prepare myself for the drill this weekend (we have inspection, breifing, and shots:lipsrseal ugh) Mabey I'll rethink the exposed flamible pink board... Could I put some thin drywall over it and would that fire proof it, or does it need to be 1/2" thick? Might insulate 1/2 of the shop, and make a twin layer house wrap devider between that side and the un insulated side. but then I gotta come up with an idea for a door or something. ugh Anyways, sleep well all, I'm off to work in 7 hours ~Nate |
Heat rises so the most bang for your buck will be in insulating the ceiling. I would lay the rolled fiberglass insulation across (perpendicular) to the rafters and then staple a vapor barrier (plastic tarp) to the underside of the rafters.
I would then insulate the walls, however if you cant then just staple plastic tarp over all the walls, a heavy plastic tarp should be sufficient as a door to contain the heat in your work space. |
Quote:
Free carpet remnants might be a good way to go. That and egg-cartons work well for sound insulation, not sure how well that translates to temp. insulation. |
I believe the national standard for Garage drywall is 5/8" thick on any wall adjacent to a living area, and 5/8" on all ceilings. Standard fiberglass insulation can be exposed since it is flame retardant.
For cheap and quick, I'd staple plastic sheet to the ceiling which will cut down on air space that you need to heat. Insulation properties are nill, though. The same plastic could be used on the walls. use a window for fresh air requirements. Temporary, but effective, and not a giant building code violation. I've used this approach when I needed to keep the garage warm at the last place I lived in while replacing the entire electric service panel in the middle of January after it caught fire. For the first day I froze my butt off. After that, an hour of stapling up plastic and my tiny propane heater was able to keep everything warm enough that I could work on the panel comfortably. |
For a temporary solution the cheapest and easiest thing you can do is put up
a false ceiling using plastic. That will retain much off the heat. And can be done in 1/2 a day with a staple gun, nails, hammer and wood flats. Don't forget the utility knife. Was drill from 0800-1620? |
Hang plastic around the work area, like a temporary spray booth.
|
Don't forget plastic is flamable too.
Tom W |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:03 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website