Zoysia -- any experience? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

davidmash · #16 03-18-2008, 10:37 PM

As for it going dormant that's not a problem since everyone else's does also.

As for the TX heat, their web site shows me in the "green" zone which is optimum.

I think I might try it as soon as I get some work related issues cleared up.

TheDon · #17 03-18-2008, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

All I ever see is St. Augustine or Bahia. I prefer the St. Augustine.

thats all we can have in fl unless you own a golf course

we tried the zoysia stuff and it didnt work out well... so we re sodded the front lawn

t walgamuth · #18 03-19-2008, 12:22 AM

There is a house near South Bend where they poured concrete on the front yard and painted the "yard" area green.

Tom W

speace · #19 03-19-2008, 12:25 AM

Ditto what sunedog said except I would not mulch the clippings. I have Bermuda and my next door neighbor has Meyer Zoysia. That grass is so thick, where would the clippings go! It does choke out the weeds... and is beginning to take over my Bermuda!

You can plug Zoysia, but it is available in sod as well.

I would be sure it can take the Texas heat. If not, then Bermuda would be a good second.

75Sv1 · #20 03-19-2008, 08:53 AM

We had some when I was a teen. It took some time for it to get going. This was in PA. As said before it doesn't grow as fast height wise, so less mowing. Also, try to put some lime down on your lawn and some gypsum. Also, there are lwan restore products. I forget wich one I used some years back. It really helped green the lawn and reduce thach.
Tom

Ken300D · #21 03-19-2008, 09:27 AM

I have a problem with moss in some areas. That will expand during wet times and gradually kills off the grass. I have tried raking it away but it seems to have roots or spores that regrow the patch quickly.

Is there something that will destroy the moss without killing grass? Or do I need to nuke the area with RoundUp and replant after the radiation dissipates.....?

Ken300D

KarTek · #22 03-19-2008, 11:22 AM

Ken, Roundup doesn't always have to be a "nuke" approach. Sometimes I need to selectively get rid of things like weeds and crabgrass among my "good" grass. I simply adjust the spray down to a narrow stream and shoot individual areas. Since Roundup is a contact herbicide, it only kills what you spray it on. If you're carefull, you will minimize the collateral damage. When the offending plants die, just replant with the good stuff.

Chad300tdt · #23 03-19-2008, 12:05 PM

My parents' yard is Zoysia and it's brown as long as it's green. It looks great and is very thick, but it creeps very fast. You need to dig a trench to slow it down from entering your flower beds. Their zoysia is even taking over the neighbors' yards.

speace · #24 03-19-2008, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken300D

I have a problem with moss in some areas. That will expand during wet times and gradually kills off the grass. I have tried raking it away but it seems to have roots or spores that regrow the patch quickly.

Is there something that will destroy the moss without killing grass? Or do I need to nuke the area with RoundUp and replant after the radiation dissipates.....?

Ken300D

If moss is growing, the PH of the soil is probably wrong for grass. Lime, for example, will lower the PH, weaken the moss and promote the grass. You should consult your agricultrual service or a lawncare professional for the best approach. I have also noted that weed killers seem to weaken the moss as well.

The moss that I have is welcomed because it keeps my back yard green under the oak trees. It seems oaks not only make lots of shade, but they cause the soil PH to be acedic to the point that grass pretty much won't grow under an oak...

SwampYankee · #25 03-19-2008, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken300D

I have a problem with moss in some areas. That will expand during wet times and gradually kills off the grass. I have tried raking it away but it seems to have roots or spores that regrow the patch quickly.

Is there something that will destroy the moss without killing grass? Or do I need to nuke the area with RoundUp and replant after the radiation dissipates.....?

Ken300D

Moss is generally going to be a persistant problem as long as there is soil moisture available at the surface, generally in compacted soils which then to be on the heavy or clayey side but it can be a result of excess organic matter, also.

Roundup won't touch moss. There are some moss killers on the market or you can try an herbicical soap. They work to varying degrees of success but as long as soil conditions are right it'll be back. What happens is that in the heavier, moist soils the turfgrass essentially suffocates and thins out giving the moss the opportunity it's waiting for. Soil pH can be a factor (especially under evergreens and oaks), but more so in keeping turfgrass alive in that if it's acidic the plants get the double whammy of lack of oxygen plus the inability to obtain nutrients out of the soil so it starts to thin out or die.

Lime applications will help get the soil closer to the ideal range that the turfgrass is looking for, allowing the roots to absorb the nutrients it needs and giving it a fighting chance against the otherwise detrimental soil conditions. Lime does take anywhere from 3-6 months to break down and get the pH heading in the right direction.

The only permanent way to get rid of moisture is to open up the soil with regular aeration, preferably by pulling plugs rather than just poking holes. If it's a heavy, clayey soil topdressing with sand or calcified clay/porous ceramic (at possibly heavy rates) can help alleviate those compaction issues.

75Sv1 · #26 03-19-2008, 04:31 PM

I used a vitrified lime from a Gardening center. It is a lot more expensive. I remember $10 or more for a bag to treat 5000 sq feet. It breaks down faster than regular lime. It really made the grass green, almost emerald.
Tom

Dee8go · #27 03-19-2008, 04:53 PM

I sometimes use pulverized line. Is Vitirfied lime different from pulverized?

75Sv1 · #28 03-20-2008, 06:59 AM

I don't know if there is a difference between vitrified lime and pulverized lime. Might be the same just different wording.
Tom

SwampYankee · #29 03-20-2008, 08:56 AM

Vitrified has been kiln fired as a means of trying to cut down on dust. I don't know much about it other than a lot of nurseries and garden centers around here use it for their soil mixes when needed. Pelletized, as opposed to granular, generally breaks down the fastest as they actually grind pulverized lime again before gluing it back into the pellets. Pulverized lime is generally a pain to handle and spread since it blows around so easily. We switched over to pelletized about 10 years ago and even at 2-3 bucks extra per 50 lb. bag we've never had anyone complain that we didn't have pulverized.

Outside of a soil test it's just a guessing game, but if you need to fertilize every 3-4 weeks because the grass won't hold it's color chances are your soil is on the acidic side and the little grass plants just aren't able to utilize all of those nutrients before they leach through the soil.

Chad300tdt · #30 03-20-2008, 09:05 AM

Wow Swamp, you keep offering such great advice. You should change the description under your screen name to "Lord of the Turf"

You've given me hope with my yard. I had our yard "aerated", but cores weren't removed, they just stabbed a bunch of holes. I will make sure it's done the right way next time. We also have a "moss" problem that you've addressed in an earlier post too.