What Soaker Hose Should I Buy? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chad300tdt · #1 03-27-2008, 09:03 AM

I have a 125' row of Cardinal Songbird hedges that I planted last year. Yesterday I replanted the area that was ripped out by the SUV that went through my fence.

I had a soaker hose there last year, but it sprang leaks almost daily. I had it covered with mulch and figured that would be enough to keep it from drying out. What should I look for in a GOOD soaker hose? Are they all the same composition, or is there a particular one to look for? Should they be buried under soil or is it OK to just cover them with a layer of mulch?

I need to get a hose ASAP but I don't want to end up with the junk I had last year.

KarTek · #2 03-27-2008, 09:36 AM

I thought soaker hoses were supposed to leak...

Anyway, strangely enough, I've never had trouble with ANY soaker hose I've owned. I usually snake one through the garden on top of the rows and let the plants grow up around it.

I've also had good luck with those accessory tubes you take and pierce through a regular hose and it turns it into a custom soaker. You can buy different tips for the lines depending on what type of plant you're watering. Match this up with a timer and you're set.

SwampYankee · #3 03-27-2008, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I had a soaker hose there last year, but it sprang leaks almost daily. I had it covered with mulch and figured that would be enough to keep it from drying out. What should I look for in a GOOD soaker hose? Are they all the same composition, or is there a particular one to look for? Should they be buried under soil or is it OK to just cover them with a layer of mulch?

I need to get a hose ASAP but I don't want to end up with the junk I had last year.

We're a Gilmour dealer for their high pressure and golf course hoses. They hold up very well and on the one or two occasions that there's been any problem Gilmour has replaced them. They do offer soaker hoses but I can't speak for them as I've never used one or sold one but I'd imagine they'd hold up at least as well as their hoses.

Covering them with mulch is really all that should be necessary. What happened with your old ones, did the rubber just break down?

Chad300tdt · #4 03-27-2008, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwampYankee

We're a Gilmour dealer for their high pressure and golf course hoses. They hold up very well and on the one or two occasions that there's been any problem Gilmour has replaced them. They do offer soaker hoses but I can't speak for them as I've never used one or sold one but I'd imagine they'd hold up at least as well as their hoses.

Covering them with mulch is really all that should be necessary. What happened with your old ones, did the rubber just break down?

Thanks for the input guys. I'll look into the Gilmour line.

I let the hose get wet before I rolled it out to make sure it wouldn't crack. I covered it with about 3" of mulch and turned it on for about 2 hours in the am and 2 hours in the evening. I didn't have much pressure running to the hose either, but it would get little stress tears. I would know a leak sprung because I would see a puddle form. I wrapped the leaks with duct tape and kept using it until the SUV tore it up. I had 2 - 100' hoses linked together. They started leaking within a month. Maybe the rubber was breaking down, but I thought it would last longer than that.

Chad300tdt · #5 03-27-2008, 10:40 AM

What do you guys think about using the soaker hose to apply a fertilizer? I was thinking of hooking up a miracle grow garden feeder inline after the timer.

Stoneseller · #6 03-27-2008, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

What do you guys think about using the soaker hose to apply a fertilizer? I was thinking of hooking up a miracle grow garden feeder inline after the timer.

I did that with an "EZ-Flo" brand water soluble fert dispenser. It worked fine, except the brass fittings corrode pretty quick.
http://www.ezfloinjection.com/1-6.asp

I like the Gilmour hoses. The heavier weight round ones, not the flat style. I probably have close to 1000 feet of them spread out through various beds. In last summer's drought they worked out great.

Jordan G · #7 03-27-2008, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

What do you guys think about using the soaker hose to apply a fertilizer? I was thinking of hooking up a miracle grow garden feeder inline after the timer.

Miracle Grow - what, do you use diapers from Costco too?

http://www.compostguide.com/compost_tea_information.html

Chad300tdt · #8 03-27-2008, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordan G

Miracle Grow - what, do you use diapers from Costco too?

http://www.compostguide.com/compost_tea_information.html

Sorry.

If I make any compost tea I wanted to use it on the vegetables. I guess I need to expand my "organic" vision.

I could use that EZ flow injection system to use the "tea".

Jordan G · #9 03-27-2008, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

Sorry.

If I make any compost tea I wanted to use it on the vegetables. I guess I need to expand my "organic" vision.

I could use that EZ flow injection system to use the "tea".

I'm only kidding - golly, I still have some Scott's fertilizer left over from last year to treat crabgrass and I'll probably spread it this weekend.

It's best to practice everything in moderation

PaulC · #10 03-27-2008, 11:08 AM

That method of fertilizer application is an interesting idea. My only concern would be that some of the liquid-based fertilizer might migrate away from the target area and fertilize surrounding plant life, such as grass. You might wind up seeing a difference in the quality of the grass in the immediate area of the hedges.

BTW, when you were replanting, did you come across a grille emblem for a 2007 Tahoe? Just let me know.

Chad300tdt · #11 03-27-2008, 11:12 AM

That's the way I see it ... plus I want to make sure the hedges grow as fast as possible. Some kind of plant growth hormone would be great.

Jordan G · #12 03-27-2008, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulC

That method of fertilizer application is an interesting idea. My only concern would be that some of the liquid-based fertilizer might migrate away from the target area and fertilize surrounding plant life, such as grass. You might wind up seeing a difference in the quality of the grass in the immediate area of the hedges.

BTW, when you were replanting, did you come across a grille emblem for a 2007 Tahoe? Just let me know.

At least say you're sorry Paul, you've caused the good man some considerable grief.

Chad300tdt · #13 03-27-2008, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulC

BTW, when you were replanting, did you come across a grille emblem for a 2007 Tahoe? Just let me know.

No, it was a Ford Explorer ... I did find about 15 chunks of the alloy wheels that broke when they hit the curb backwards.

SwampYankee · #14 03-27-2008, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordan G

I'm only kidding - golly, I still have some Scott's fertilizer left over from last year to treat crabgrass and I'll probably spread it this weekend.

It's best to practice everything in moderation

Wait until the forsythias start dropping their petals or dogwoods just start budding. Crabgrass won't germinate until the soil temps get into the 50's (we're hovering around 37* here). If you figure you're getting 6-16 weeks of control (until that barrier breaks downs) depending on product, putting it down 2-3-4 weeks early is 2-3-4 weeks of control you'll lose on the tail-end when you're more likely to need it when your turf starts to stress and thin as the heat comes in the summer.

The Four Step programs really have been the bane of IPM in the the residential market. Thanks to Scotts and their mega money advertising budget it's already time for Step 1 because you need to wait 6 weeks until applying Step 2. In the northeast the ideal time for crabgrass control application is just about the time Step 2 goes down but obviously you wouldn't double up. I can tell retail customers until I'm blue in the face to hold off on Step X or when it comes time for Step Y take a look at your lawn and see what it needs, if it doesn't need step Y use Z instead, or try this organic fertilizer right now instead because of conditions but that marketing has done its job. If I weren't a firm believer in IPM and a balanced approach I could make a lot more money pumping out our eqivalent of a season program.

AFA chemical fertilizers go we don't sell Scotts but rather a better, professional grade one so they buy it from me anyway. It'd be better if we could just get them to use only what they need when they need it rather than looking at a calendar or doing what the radio commercial said. OTOH I have been successful at reprogramming a good percentage of them so it's not a lost cause. The lawn care guys and golf course superintendants (who you would hope know what they are doing) are heavily regulated yet homeowners can spread stuff willy nilly.

Weeee...lawn talk.

Jeez, Jordan. Those have been some bombshells today. Disposable diapers and Scotts fertilizer????

Jordan G · #15 03-27-2008, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwampYankee

Wait until the forsythias start dropping their petals or dogwoods just start budding. Crabgrass won't germinate until the soil temps get into the 50's (we're hovering around 37* here). If you figure you're getting 6-16 weeks of control (until that barrier breaks downs) depending on product, putting it down 2-3-4 weeks early is 2-3-4 weeks of control you'll lose on the tail-end when you're more likely to need it when your turf starts to stress and thin as the heat comes in the summer.

The Four Step programs really have been the bane of IPM in the the residential market. Thanks to Scotts and their mega money advertising budget it's already time for Step 1 because you need to wait 6 weeks until applying Step 2. In the northeast the ideal time for crabgrass control application is just about the time Step 2 goes down but obviously you wouldn't double up. I can tell retail customers until I'm blue in the face to hold off on Step X or when it comes time for Step Y take a look at your lawn and see what it needs, if it doesn't need step Y use Z instead, or try this organic fertilizer right now instead because of conditions but that marketing has done its job. If I weren't a firm believer in IPM and a balanced approach I could make a lot more money pumping out our eqivalent of a season program.

AFA chemical fertilizers go we don't sell Scotts but rather a better, professional grade one so they buy it from me anyway. It'd be better if we could just get them to use only what they need when they need it rather than looking at a calendar or doing what the radio commercial said. OTOH I have been successful at reprogramming a good percentage of them so it's not a lost cause. The lawn care guys and golf course superintendants (who you would hope know what they are doing) are heavily regulated yet homeowners can spread stuff willy nilly.

Weeee...lawn talk.

Jeez, Jordan. Those have been some bombshells today. Disposable diapers and Scotts fertilizer????

Awesome info - consider this guy reprogrammed. I was one of the blind users, I'll admit - never gave it much thought before. It said spread it in early spring so I forked over the money at Lowes and got the speedy green 5000 all ready.

Yep - you pinned down the flaws in my character (of which, there are many

)......I'm a selfish and vain organic/treehugger

.

I'll only counter with this - an organic Rome can't be built in a day, Swamp. I only hope to have all the flaws ironed out...so if you ever stop down for a visit, there will be nary a hypocrisy among us.

Have you been watching your Celts? Sixers have actually been making a nice run, as of late. Sorry - off topic.