Wood-finishing advice, anyone?

[BodhiBenz1987]

After getting the stain all straightened out on my zebrano interior pieces, I'm ready to move on to the final challenge: finishing. I've read just about every post on refinishing zebrano and there seem to be a few different choices of finish. I basically am looking at two decisions:

-What type of finish? I experimented with nitrocell lacquer and wasn't impressed with its durability, but I liked its look. I'm thinking of trying pre-catalyzed lacquer, although would need to order it online as no one seems to sell it. Some stores I've gone in have suggested polyurethane, but I'm not sure I trust their advice. I want it to look as much like factory as possible (obviously I'm not going to duplicate the factory polyester). Drying time is important because I do not have a dedicated sterile facility to do this. I can do it in a reasonably clean garage, but it's not perfect.

-What's my best bet for application method? Spray seems to be the best option in my mind, but it's also been suggested I paint on the finish. I was going to purchase an HVLP gun (in the $100-$150 range) to do it ... would that be worthwhile if I do go the spray route?

I'm sure there are several ways to go about this and that this project could work with a variety of finishes and techniques, but I'd like to hear some ideas before I invest in any particular product or equipment.

[WVOtoGO]

I love a woods natural beauty.
For me - It's always been Tung Oil. Nothing but pure Tung Oil.

A bit more work. But more than worth it.

Edit: Sorry. I just read your post again. Seems you're after that "dipped in clear plastic" look. Never mind.

[Botnst]

Originally Posted by WVOtoGO

I love a woods natural beauty.
For me - It's always been Tung Oil. Nothing but pure Tung Oil.

A bit more work. But more than worth it.

Edit: Sorry. I just read your post again. Seems you're after that "dipped in clear plastic" look. Never mind.

I use tung on my rifle stocks that I refinished. Looks fine on fr walnut.

[BodhiBenz1987]

Originally Posted by WVOtoGO

I love a woods natural beauty.
For me - It's always been Tung Oil. Nothing but pure Tung Oil.

A bit more work. But more than worth it.

Edit: Sorry. I just read your post again. Seems you're after that "dipped in clear plastic" look. Never mind.

Yup. I love that natural look on furniture or a rifle stock, but I want the pieces in my car to look like they did when my dad bought the car, or as close to it as possible.

[ytr1903]

Go with the pre-catalyzed lacquer. You have several choices in the finished look, in your case I would go with the gloss finish. If you go with lacquer, you are going to want to spray it, but unless you intend to use that HVLP gun after this project, I would go with something along the lines of a Harbor Freight touch up gun. Just spraying the lacquer is not going to give you the clear-look finish that was originally on these pieces of wood. You will probably need to color sand and hand buff each piece when done spraying. This will definitely give you the best mirror finish AND by going the color sand route you can get that cheap gun because you will be hand finishing each piece. I have been using pre-cat lacquer for almost 30 years. It is virtually indestructible as evidenced by a coffee table that I made back then. It has survived my kids and is now patiently tolerating my grandkids. The finish still looks like I just sprayed it.

Tom

[BodhiBenz1987]

Originally Posted by ytr1903

Go with the pre-catalyzed lacquer. You have several choices in the finished look, in your case I would go with the gloss finish. If you go with lacquer, you are going to want to spray it, but unless you intend to use that HVLP gun after this project, I would go with something along the lines of a Harbor Freight touch up gun. Just spraying the lacquer is not going to give you the clear-look finish that was originally on these pieces of wood. You will probably need to color sand and hand buff each piece when done spraying. This will definitely give you the best mirror finish AND by going the color sand route you can get that cheap gun because you will be hand finishing each piece. I have been using pre-cat lacquer for almost 30 years. It is virtually indestructible as evidenced by a coffee table that I made back then. It has survived my kids and is now patiently tolerating my grandkids. The finish still looks like I just sprayed it.

Tom

Thanks, Tom. Forgive my ignorance, but what exactly is "color sanding"? I did some wet-sanding in between coats on the practice pieces I did (that was with nitrocell) and was able to get close to the look I wanted, so I'm hoping to re-enact that effort with precat lacquer. Touch-up gun sounds neat. I wasn't thrilled with the idea of buying an expensive HVLP gun that I would be unlikely to use often. I have several things I could use a touch-up gun for in the future.

Another question: Where on earth can I get pre-catalyzed lacquer? I haven't been able to find it at any hardware, paint or wood specialty store in this area. Do I have to order it online, and if so, what brand is best?

[MTI]

Mercedes used the "dipped in clear plastic" look for the safety of not having wood splinters flying around the cabin in an accident.

[WVOtoGO]

Originally Posted by MTI

Mercedes used the "dipped in clear plastic" look for the safety of not having wood splinters flying around the cabin in an accident.

Sure. That's a good one. For a second there, I thought you might be serious.

We both know:
If you were in an accident capable of making splinters of the wood trim pieces.
Said splinters flying around the cabin would be the least of your concerns.

I'd like to see it though. (Without the passengers, of course.)

[mpolli]

I saw one of those "how it's made" shows recently and they were at the Gibson guitar factory in Nashville. The guitars have a high gloss finish on them. They were laquering them and then buffing them on a big buffing wheel. They ended up very glossy.

[ytr1903]

Colorsanding is performed in order to remove dust particles in the finish and to level the finish of any orange peeling or other problems that may have occurred during the spraying process. You can go to auto parts store that also sells auto body supplies and get the necessary materials. You want to get a couple of sheets of 1000 grit paper and a couple of sheets of 2000 grit paper. These are of the wet or dry variety. 3M makes them along with other manufacturers. Spray you finish on the piece and let it dry over night. The next day take you 1000 grit paper and sand the new finish flat. (You have to make sure that you have sprayed enough material on the surface, so that you don't sand through.) Next, take your 2000 grit paper and do the same thing. You are trying to get fine enough sanding scratches in the finish, so that the buffing process is easy. All this sanding is done wet. Next, get some rubbing compound (that you also bought at the auto parts store, Finesse is the 3M brand), put some on a soft rag and buff away. The shine will start jumping at you immediately. Finish it off with polish and you have it. Don't be bashful to talk to the counter guy about what you need. They are not typically your Autozone-type guy, but will be trained in automotive paint.

Here is a link for Magnalac: http://www.mlcampbell.com/secured/pisheets/W350%20MAGNALAC%20PIG.pdf

You could also use a clear automotive paint such as Chromabase or even Imron and they would be even more indestructible than Magnalac, BUT they are catalyzed products and would require the proper breathing equipment.

Here is a short video on color sanding and buffing. You don't need/want a big buffer like this guy, but other than that the technique is the same as the one you can use.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtC2_DdvnWM


Good luck,
Tom

[BodhiBenz1987]

Believe it or not I'm actually nearing completion for this project ... just thought I'd toss up a shot of the now finished piece over the CC ... I feel it looks really nice, the color is gorgeous ... pic doesn't really show how it sparkles in the sun, because it was overcast. The shifter piece looks good too, although I'm going to throw another coat of precat lacquer on it to smooth it out, then color sand, buff, etc. I'm also working on a custom piece for my boost guage, having some trouble getting the right stain color (using the same stains as the other pieces, but the veneer is a little different, even though it's also zebrano). I'll write some more juicy details when the whole deal is complete, but here's the part that's done already:

[Larry Delor]

Wow - that looks quite nice....and a lot lighter than I expected it to be.

Then again, my 124 has burlwood, and I suspect, it is a bit darker than zebrawood.

[t walgamuth]

That does look nice!

Tom W

[MTI]

I have a roll of zebrano veneer in the garage that I probably should be getting to.

[Dee8go]

Nice work, Bodhibenz! I'm not overly fond of the thick coat of finish Mercedes puts on their wood. It probably cracks because it's so thick, whereas a thinner finish would expand and contract with the natural movement of the wood.