I think if I had one of those pulsator flush machines I would not be going through all this. The key is to get the system as clean as possible after a component failure.

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Jim

I installed the second rebuilt compressor, new evaporator, new discharge pipe between the dryer and evap. System cools but not the control panel is not sending power to the compressor. It did the same thing last time I went through it and finally started working a couple days later. I'm just about ready to throw in the towel on this one. I am getting good pressures now 40 low, 225 high and the cooling works good. I did see some slight compressor clutch slippage so I evacuated, vacuum and recharged again trying to insure that I am putting in the exact amount of refrigerant. Also, I believe the hi pressure line between the dryer and evap was prett plugged up. My plans are to take it to someone that can help out with it.

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Jim

If you have clutch slippage check for a voltage drop at the compressor clutch. Too little current will cause it to slip.

Sounds like you got it right. Good work. You dont need help from anyone else just need to get that clutch to stop slipping.

After changing out to the second compressor I was then unable to get the pushbutton unit to pull the compressor it although I had good pressures. I went over to a friends house that is very knowledgeable in electrical and we started trying to troubleshoot it. The ECM was preventing the compressor from coming on. While troubleshooting I put a jumper wire from the battery straight to the compressor and while it was idling (without gauges on the a/c system) the relief valve on the compressor opened up dumping freon and oil out. It looks like something is still plugged up. I am considering one of two things - replace everything, hoses, condenser, evap, exp valve and compressor again or taking it to the dealer to figure out.

Are compressors reusable after they lift the relief valve? Are the relief valves like the ones we have on the steam system at work where they reseat after the pressure drops back down?

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Jim

I had that happen on my 123 and the valve never leaked after it snapped shut so I would say it's probably ok. When you were running it did the cooling fan come on. The ecm can probably see a high pressure switch and was preventing the compressor from turning on. You had good pressures before so I cant imagine what changed except fan.

I went through the routine again this afternoon, disassemble everything, blow it all out, remove the compressor and dump the old oil out, added some new oil, dumped it out, flushed and then filled and reassembled everything. It looks like the relief valve is going to be fine. The compressor turns fine by hand.

I am getting hi side pressures of 250-300 psi, low side is around 25 psi (slightly undercharged) at idle with an 85 dF ambient temp. I removed the power from the compressor when it gets to 300 psi. I am figuring I have a restriction somewhere. I'm suspect the hi side went high enough yesterday to cause the relief valve to open.

Could it possibly be a plugged condenser/dryer? I am not seeing anything in the expansion valve and everything seems to blow through as it should but I have learned this can be deceiving.

On top of all this the little light that is supposed to come on when the power is to the compressor is not lighting up either. The ground to pull the compressor in is supposed to be through the ECM (I am still reading up on it and don't have the special adaptor to be able to read the voltages throught the various circuits on it).

Anyway, if ya'll remember from the earlier post I had to clean the hi side line from the dryer to the evap at least 4 times to get all the little balls out of it. I finally ended up replacing the line from the dryer to the evaporator because it was plugged pretty solid. I'm starting to suspect there were some of these little balls in the hi side line going to the condenser when I first did this job and now I've plugged the condenser.

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Jim

Finally resolved.

Ended up replacing the condenser and dryer one more time. I have been focusing on the high side from the condenser through the evap and did not consider the build up in the hose from the compressor to the condenser. It has issues to and unfortunately I ruined a brand new parallel flow condenser by plugging it up.

I have learned a valuable lesson when repairing Honda a/c. REPLACE EVERYTHING IF YOU FIND LITTLE BALLS IN THE SYSTEM, hoses, compressor, evap, cond, dryer and exp valve. That way you won't have to do it but one time. I also found a burned solder section on the pbu that I had to solder a jumper wire onto.

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Jim

Good work! Ther will be 2 more messed up hondas on your door step tomorrow morning. We need them done by 5pm!

Omegaman I have questioned if it would be a preventive move to replace the dryers on Hondas after about 10 or 12 years to prevent this type of failure. To me it would be cheap insurance.

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Jim

I agree