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  #1  
Old 08-17-2008, 12:35 AM
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JB weld characteristics

Anyone ever drill JB weld? How does it stand up to machining? Think.. threadless bushing.

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  #2  
Old 08-17-2008, 12:50 AM
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i once fixed a bmw radiator with it and the repair lasted 4 months or so. i think it actually failed somewhere other than the repaired area. i've also had it not hold a fix on my golf bag. i wouldn't hesitate to drill it or grind it but depending on where it has to live...i guess you just never know until you try.
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Old 08-17-2008, 12:14 PM
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Trying to make a throttle bushing, are you?
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  #4  
Old 08-17-2008, 12:56 PM
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JB Weld uses

I used it to build up a wear surface on a pot metal VW door handle once. Actually, laminated layers of JB Weld and beer can aluminum with the last layer aluminum.

It's also holding coolant in the Massey Ferguson's cracked water jacket.

Cast a new weed eater cutter head...

It machines easy but because of this I don't think it would wear well. How about a brass insert surrounded by JBW?
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  #5  
Old 08-17-2008, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Delor View Post
Trying to make a throttle bushing, are you?

eeh. I am not ready for that.

I had to remove the slide rail pins from the 617 engine.. enough said.

after I was done drilling I decided I needed to build the orifice for the pin back up to reduce the chance of oil leak.
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:27 PM
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If the pins still hold tight then I'd use silicone RTV. It will give you a better seal and no worries about it "welding" the pins into the cast.

It drills okay, more like a "plastic", which of course it is. Use a high-speed, SHARP drill bit at high rpms to get the cleanest job. Use a drill guide to get the hole true. It's very easy to go off-center through the epoxy.
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Old 08-19-2008, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
If the pins still hold tight then I'd use silicone RTV. It will give you a better seal and no worries about it "welding" the pins into the cast.

It drills okay, more like a "plastic", which of course it is. Use a high-speed, SHARP drill bit at high rpms to get the cleanest job. Use a drill guide to get the hole true. It's very easy to go off-center through the epoxy.

thanks for that. I plan on setting the JB in place then sending a 'dummy' pin into it coated with wax so it can be removed. Then send my new pin into the fresh hole. The only prob I have w/ the RTV suggestion is allowing for slop/ play in the pin which transfer to play in the rail... possibly??

but this is sounding pretty do-able. Thanks everyone.
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Old 08-19-2008, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskeydan View Post
I used it to build up a wear surface on a pot metal VW door handle once. Actually, laminated layers of JB Weld and beer can aluminum with the last layer aluminum.

It's also holding coolant in the Massey Ferguson's cracked water jacket.

Cast a new weed eater cutter head...

It machines easy but because of this I don't think it would wear well. How about a brass insert surrounded by JBW?

The slide rail pins are not supposed to move if installed properly (like everyhting I do of course...) so that might not be an issue. However, all of my next trips to any hardware stores will include the search for a reinforcement bushing.. thanks again.. I am enjoying your opinions.
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Old 08-20-2008, 10:42 AM
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I used it to repair the stripped out air cleaner mounts on top of the intake manifold on my 240D. I drilled out one of the hole oversized. Then filled the cavity with JBWeld and inserted a new air cleaner mount with a new thread insert screwed onto it into the JB Weld and let it dry over the weekend. I drove the car for almost a year and many thousands of miles after that and the repair remained perfect.

- Peter.

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