This is why I don't like gas cars. (my Subaru XT) - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tankdriver · #16 05-12-2009, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ara T.

You would think they'd make a pair of vice grips with loooong handles so you can get easily have more leverage... anyone know of such a thing?

I have a couple 2ft length pipe in different diameters I slide over vise grips, wrenches, etc.. Well worth a trip to the scrapyard to pick up.

Someone had posted a study here giving 50/50 acetone and ATF as the best penetrant. PB blaster was last. Try that, with new vise grips.

LUVMBDiesels · #17 05-12-2009, 09:42 AM

Here is a trick I just used on my Suburban's four (that's right 4) O2 sensors. Fill a spray bottle with Coca-Cola. Spray that around the threads and let it sink in. the acid in the coke will loosen the bond between the sensor and the bung.

I also used an open end wrench on the ones that I could and the stupid socket with a 1/2 in adapter going to my long breaker bar on the ones that were too tight for the open end.

I did not want to run the car first as I knew I would burn the crap out of myself and just hitting the sensor with the MAP gas torch was useless.

derburger · #18 05-12-2009, 01:32 PM

I mixed up some SuperTech DextronIII/Acetone and soaked the sensor some more. I'll go get some gen-u-wine USA vice grips and try the oxygen sensor with a cheater pipe, after hitting the area around it with a torch, if that doesn't work then I'll just remove the exhaust and get a new downpipe welded in or have a new o2 bung welded in by my favorite exhaust shop.

I can think of nothing more American than soaking a Suburban's oxygen sensors in Coke to free them.

Unfortunately for me, my subaru was apparently assembled by Geishas and is completely made of oragami.

KarTek · #19 05-12-2009, 02:08 PM

I have a tool up at the shop that would take care of it. It has a pivoting, curved head with teeth on it and a spring. You hold it open and slip it over the bolt/nut to be removed and when you move it, it has a kind of narrowing action that clamps down. The harder the fastner is, the tighter it grips.

I have literally torn fastners in half with it. Sad thing is that I have no idea where it came from. I may be able to post a picture tonight.

gmercoleza · #20 05-12-2009, 02:30 PM

My Metrinch socket would remove that in about 5 seconds...

iwrock · #21 05-12-2009, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

I have a tool up at the shop that would take care of it. It has a pivoting, curved head with teeth on it and a spring. You hold it open and slip it over the bolt/nut to be removed and when you move it, it has a kind of narrowing action that clamps down. The harder the fastner is, the tighter it grips.

I have literally torn fastners in half with it. Sad thing is that I have no idea where it came from. I may be able to post a picture tonight.

I have one of those too!

Craftsman Clench Wrench!

gmercoleza · #22 05-12-2009, 02:55 PM

Believe it or not, my wife saw a commercial years ago and bought me a set of these, they have saved my life on many occasions. They can remove almost any rounded, rusty, stuck nut or bolt you throw at them. Here's a link; I have the exact same set pictured: http://www.metrinch.tv/ It might seem gimmicky (and maybe it is) but boy does it WORK!

KarTek · #23 05-12-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

I have one of those too!

Craftsman Clench Wrench!

Yeah, I think mine pre-dates that one but it's the same idea.

SirNik84 · #24 05-12-2009, 04:20 PM

cut the damn sensor off, get a socket, maybe a standard size, what ever will Almost fit. Use a craftsman or better (you will need the warranty) get a large hammer (bigger is better) drive the socket onto the head of the sensor. use breaker bar and remove the sensor.

Once you have it out take the socket (with the sensor still stuck in it) back to the store. they will give you a shiny new socket.

Justin should know about this. I took a few stuck bolts off his engine this way (I forced a socket on the outside of the round allen bolts) I did this a few times. a few trips to sears.

one day at school a guy had a problem like this the teacher looked out the shop door to the parking lot and said, "good the snap-on man is still here." he beat the frack outta the socket, got the stuck bolt out and tossed it to the kid, "take that to the truck and get a new one"

Never be afraid to destroy a dead part, and never forget about the unconditional lifetime warranty.

derburger · #25 05-12-2009, 04:35 PM

Got the darn thing out finally. I think the Acetone/ATF worked well in creeping into the rust. It took a new pair of Irwin Vice Grips, 5mm hex socket on a 1/2'' ratchet to tighten the vice grips down on the bolt, and a 4 foot cheater pipe on the vice grip to break the sensor free and loosen it.

As you can see, the oxygen had sensor gotten a little funky over the years. The new one went in nicely, the threads were not too trashed.

For some reason at Home depot, the regular 10'' Irwin Vice grips are made in China, along with a few other ones, the "fast lock" with the rubber handles are made in USA, I bought a 10'' fast lock one that did the work.

Now my Subie should run better with it's new oxygen sensor in. Thanks again guys! Also got a delicious hotdog at the stand at home depot.

E150GT · #26 05-12-2009, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Perhaps its time to support those USA workers and go pickup a brand new shiny pair of vice grips!

They're only like $15 for the genuine ones from Irwin....

I bought some Irwin needle nose type vise grips. Absolute junk. Maybe some huge chanelocks and a couple of small jack handles over the handles to improve your leverage.
*** EDIT*** I see you got it already.

thorsen · #27 05-12-2009, 08:41 PM

Start the car and let it run for a minute. Take a candle and touch it to the manifold/o2 sensor. The wax melts and wicks into the threads, lubricating them for the trip out.

Monomer · #28 05-13-2009, 04:15 PM

I had the same problem on my 380.

The sensor looked to be factory, it was an 83 (!!!)

I had a cheap set of 6 point sockets I was using. After rounding it over quite a bit, I took a good look at the sockets and noticed there was atleast a 1/16th of lead-in. I promptly turned this down with a lathe, and deburred it.

Worked like a charm.

derburger · #29 05-13-2009, 06:35 PM

The reason for my Subaru's funky acceleration and idle was a loose connector in the wiring harness

Unplugged and plugged two big harness connectors back in and it runs great. Still getting used to working on a FI gas car, neither my XT or 300cd needs work done for now so I can just drive them and enjoy.