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#61
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Brian,
You missed the boat on this one. Since you already have the boiler, the most efficient, cost effective way to make domestic hot water is with an indirect hot water maker. Plumbed into the boiler as an additional zone. Water to water heat exchange, virtually endless hot water supply, incredibly good insulation (less than one degree heat loss per hour on our 40 gallon), negligible effect on oil consumption. Jim
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#62
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I'm just shocked at the expense of it. I could easily retrofit the heater to function as an indirect tank back to the coil. It's already plumbed from the coil so that the coil can operate in series with it. |
#63
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Plantman
You should have your tech install a heat recovery system from your a/c system. Hot gas expelled from the a/c unit are piped to the hot water tank. All the hot water you can handle.I turn off the water heater during the summer months. Living here in fla. is the ideal place to have one installed . My unit was installed when i bought the house. look into this it will help you out Gunny |
#64
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For the immediate future, the most cost effective fix is replacing the elements, I know one is drawing way too much power. .
Seems like an easy remove and replace. Are these available at a home depot? I tried a search on their site and found nothing! Are they standard or should I remove one and bring with? They are both 4500 watt elements Thanks again.
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#65
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What makes you think that one element is drawing way too much power?
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#66
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The other element was very low if not 0, maybe causing the other one to work more, I have no idea. I figure one is bad, I might as well replace both since they are relatively inexpensive. .03
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#67
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I agree with them. It has to draw that sort of current if it's a 4500 W heater and it's operating off of typical 240 V mains. I'm not saying that you don't have some sort of problem somewhere in your house - but 17 A to your hot water heater doesn't seem like a smoking gun to me. As an aside, it may be perfectly normal for one element to be running and the other one not to be under some conditions; it depends on how they're set up. Edited to add: Things are very commonly set up by design such that the two elements are never operating at the same time. Last edited by Eskimo; 06-11-2009 at 09:35 PM. |
#68
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Now that we are on the subject. The reason I had my ac and heater checked is that we installed a new high efficiency AC last year, same size as the old one, house is cooling off better than before. Yet month every month the new ac unit has been in, my electric bill is higher than the same months of the previous year with the old ac. My buddy told me that the water heater could be the main reason. Conflicting reports. All I know is I have one less person living here and my bill keeps going up and up. I was told by a guy at Home depot the 17 amo was too high. ?????
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#69
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Ooooopps! I said all that already!
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#70
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If he said that, then I disagree with him! |
#71
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In your A/C, the air handler is not the big power draw. The big power draw is the compressor. Did your man give you a figure for the draw on the compressor? You could check the label on it for the wattage/amp rating. |
#72
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#73
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May 2385 April 2095 March 1542 February 1525 Jan 2086 Dec 1634 Nov 1670 Oct 2060 Sept 2720 August 2417 July 2540 June 2342 May 2119 April 1781 March 1693 Feb 1687 JAn 1387
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#74
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Edit- you should include the monthly average temperatures with your kWhr figures in your last post. Last edited by Chas H; 06-11-2009 at 11:02 PM. |
#75
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I'll have to get the numbers from my buddy, like I said, I do not recall the figures for the exterior unit.
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