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#1
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Help me decide on a truck!
I'm looking to get a pickup to replace my 300D. I do all my own work(Minus alignments and tire balancing)
I don't have any brand loyalty, but I do have some requirements: #1-Reliability(duh) #2-Ease of repairs/cost of repairs I don't want nightmare modern car experience #3-Crew cab with a short box. I need the extra dry storage space, but I also want an open bed #4-MUST HAVE A FRAME (NO unibodies) #5-Engine (See below) Naturally aspirated fuel injected gasoline 4 cylinder inline engine (I like the Toyota 5SFE-do they put a similar engine in the trucks?) I only need 80hp/ft-lb torque; fuel economy&reliability are the goal. Simple emissions controls-no AIR/smog pumps! PCV, O2 sensors, cat & EGR are fine by me if I can easily access them. Hydraulic valves-I'm sick of removing my valve cover every 10k Timing belt (Easier to change/less catastrophic failure than a chain in my opinion) Self-tensioning serpentine belt for the accessories R134a a/c system that will be easy to work on (If need be) #6-Drivetrain (See Below) Manual transmission, preferably with a hydraulic clutch Hand operated parking brake is preferred, but not essential 2WD (Rear aka correct wheel dive) Solid rear axle Class II hitch(or available off-the-shelf) Limited slip differential(or available off-the-shelf) Relatively smooth ride when on the highway-low rpms in high gear and no/low vibration #7-Interior (The part of the truck I will be most of the time) Pedals are far away and the wheel is close to the driver(or can be extended) I'm 6'2" with bad knees and like to have my legs stretched out, but I don't like to drive with my arms reaching straight out either. The seating/spacing in my 1993 Ranger was perfect. Manual windows Manual climate controls(Vacuum operated ones are expensive/hard to replace) Factory-equipped cupholders that work!!!!! Solid rear window(or off-the-shelf solid rear window available) Sunroof(If it has the reputation for not leaking) Light grey color is preferred(cooler in the summer) but I can live with anything. Wish list: Space for a second battery under the hood ABS-but only if it's located in the engine bay (Affordable) Off the shelf alternator upgrades into the 100Amp or higher range Speakers in the dash(vs doors) Heated seats(or the possibility of heated seats) If you're still with me, thanks for reading through.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment Last edited by Simpler=Better; 07-09-2009 at 11:13 AM. Reason: Spelling :) |
#2
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I must say that Toyota will fit your reliability and MPG concerns, but I don't know much about part costs or ease to work on (they seem a bit small in all aspects). I personally like 80s and early 90s Ford trucks. They have been very reliable to me, and parts are VERY plentiful and inexpensive (they made that body style for what, like 15 years?). They may not have what you are looking for in fuel economy, but they are very good trucks...
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1989 300E 144K |
#3
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It's pretty hard to beat a 90's F150, while it doesn't have all the creature comforts you desire the reliability and dollar savings on parts is certainly strong.
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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif 15 VW Passat TDI 00 E420 98 E300 DT 97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME! 97 S500 97 E300D 86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D 86 300SDL (o\|/o) |
#4
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But can you get F150's with an inline engine? I thought they were V6 and V8 only....
I used to own a 1993 Ranger 4L V6. Granted, I got it at 150,000 miles but nearly everything on that truck fell apart. Mileage was 14/19 and my top speed was 80 IIRC parts were pricey-$40/side for the rear brake shoes.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#5
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I'm pretty sure you can get models from the 80's with an inline 6. Yeah, I had a ranger too. Piece of crap if you ask me. On the F-150 side of things, I can't tell you how much I've beat the crap out of the 302 (V-8) and it runs like crazy. Granted, the gas milage sucks, but if you can find an I-6, I think it would have the same lasting power. Look how many of those things are still on the road. I would stay away from anything after the body change in the mid-90's, but others may have had better luck with them (they seem to have expensive, BS items go wrong; HVAC for example). Also, there is so much room under the hood, you can actually get two hands in there to work on it. Parts a cheap for them too (so I've found).
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1989 300E 144K |
#6
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I think Nissan makes fantastic trucks with a 4 cylinder engine.
My good friend runs his own tile business and has put about 170,000 hard miles on his 2002 model year Nissan Frontier pickup, with no problems to speak of.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#7
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My father had an '88(?) F150 with a straight six (carburetted). Lousy MPG, but more grunt than you'd expect from a 6 and the **highest selling vehicle in America** status made parts easy.
-John
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2009 Kia Sedona 2009 Honda Odyssey EX-L 12006 Jetta Pumpe Duse (insert Mercedes here) Husband, Father, sometimes friend =) |
#8
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Ford's 4.9 litre 300 cu in straight six was in production from 1965 to 1996. I have one in my '67 F-100 (although it is a 1980 engine and I rebuilt it). They are about as bulletproof as an OM617.
Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#9
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Too bad you want a frame... This little darling would be a hoot to own..
I think if you want small light duty look at the earlier Rangers and the S10 4 cylinders.The Rangers had 2 spark plugs per cylinder as a way to get an extra few mpgs out of the engine. They are both cheap and crappy, but will get decent mpgs and are easy to maintain. I think they both came with extended cabs... Didn't Isuzu keep making a Chevy LUV like truck well into the 1990's?
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
#10
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Toyota or Nissan should provide most of what you want. Since you are big, you might need to go with an F-150 to get comfortable. As stated, they came with a really great 300 straight six until '96.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#11
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You can get some pretty good deals on F150's. One of my uncles just priced out a new one, crew cab, short bed, 5.4, 4wd, loaded....$27k! I can't beleive how cheap they are. When I was looking at them I priced out a fairly basic F150 for $18,500, with a crew cab and short bed your probably not looking at that much more. I bet you can get what you want for very low $20k's.
Throw in a cash for clunkers POS and it looks pretty good. The 5.4 is no bargin, but since you want 2wd you can get the 4.6 which IMHO is a far better motor. With the new 6spd auto mileage should be high teens around town. The plus is they ride fantastic and are very quite on the highway. Toyota's are good, and their little trucks are not bad. I'm just not a fan of little trucks because the beds are to small.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 Last edited by Hatterasguy; 07-09-2009 at 01:38 PM. |
#12
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I have a 2000 F-150 with really big tires on it and I get 20 mpg + on the highway. As stated above you can't kill these trucks, I would say one like mine could be bought for around $4000.
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For the Saved, this world is the worst it will ever get. For the unSaved, this world is the best it will ever get. Clk's Ebay Stuff BUY SOMETHING NOW!!! |
#13
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F150. Quality is good (Not Toyota good, but its good), and the savings over the Toyota makes it an easy choice.
But like others said, the early 90s Fords are hard to beat. Plentiful inexpensive parts, and fairly reliable.
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-Justin 91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd 01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd 07 MB ML320 CDI - dd 16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd it's automatic. |
#14
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Forgot to add that I'm still in school and have to stick to a $5,000 budget(10x my 300D).
I get kind of nervous because I'm assuming that whatever I buy will immediately need $1000 in repairs/constant repairs like all my other cars. My 93 Ranger was a POS, but I did get it at 150k, with a V6 auto. However, it's interior size/arrangement was very extremely comfortable(9/10) I'd give my 300D a 5/10 for ergonomics. The 2000+ Rangers seem nice with the 2.5L I4 and 5spd. a/c and all the features I want. If I stepped up to the $10k range I would just go for a 2003+ Trailblazer with the I6 & Auto; 17/21 mpg and a bulletproof engine
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#15
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Why not a Toyota T100.....its a fair sized truck with decent mileage, enough power, and is super ultra reliable. If you can find one.
Like this one: If you go domestic I'd go with a F150 with the Inline 6 engine.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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