Garage Floor Exoxy Coating - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

aklim · #1 04-21-2010, 01:00 AM

Concrete is clean for now but I would like to improve on it and not have oily messes in it. Anyone know about the Behr 2 part epoxy?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100585983

TIA

MTI · #2 04-21-2010, 01:04 AM

All the research I've done indicated that the water-based epoxy systems weren't as robust as the solvent based ones used in commercial applications.

aklim · #3 04-21-2010, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTI

All the research I've done indicated that the water-based epoxy systems weren't as robust as the solvent based ones used in commercial applications.

That is what the reviews said too. In fact, some have said it works but others say it doesn't. Must the solvent based ones be commercially done or can I DIY?

aklim · #4 04-21-2010, 01:26 AM

How about the Rust-Oleum stuff? It is solvent based.

http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Interior-Paint-Stain-Concrete-Basement-Garage-Floor/Rust-Oleum/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xkkZbd13Z1as/R-100201460/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

MTI · #5 04-21-2010, 01:51 AM

I'd go with the solvent based over the water based. Locally, a company that does commercial applications (hotels, warehouses) quoted me $4K for my 20 x 40 floor, so $5/sq-ft.

compress ignite · #6 04-21-2010, 04:44 AM

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=17

Of course, prep is everything...

layback40 · #7 04-21-2010, 05:43 AM

If its at home, after you put it down & it has cured, find some old carpet & put carpet on the floor. When ever it ends up a mess, just replace it with more old carpet. You can usually get it for free from a carpet store. Its great in a garage as it makes it quieter & good to stand on when you are working on the car. I have about 5 layers on the floor of a dirt shed, its nearly as good as a concrete floor yet much better to work on.

75Sv1 · #8 04-21-2010, 06:50 AM

I do have the one part water based Rustoleum garage floor coating on my garage floor. Its been there probably 3-5 years. I haven't had any problems with it flaking up or peeling off etc. I have had the 240D and one of my Contours on it. I do have some lathes and mills on one side of the garage. I have had to move them around, by engine hoist, car jacks, and round steel rods. No problem. I do have some chips out. That is the concrete. Hitting concrete with a hammer, that happens.
One problem I had heard with the stuff, is that if you have put down sealer on your concrete, then it won't stick. I didn't have any sealer put down. I also waited at least a month after the concrete was poured. I did use the acid etch that came with the kit, to clean the concrete. I did use the plastic flakes. I wish there were more in the kit. I have heard applying it when the concrete is still wet, so the first coat adsorbs into the concrete. I let the concrete dry though. I think my neighbor did that though. He does atuo work. I haven't noticed any problems with his either.
If you had sealer applied, then I'd go with a two part epxoy systems. I'd check on any special surface prep. On the one part water based systems, they say you can rough up the concrete and apply. I don't know about that or not.
Tom

kerry · #9 04-21-2010, 10:31 AM

I used the Behr two part water based system on the concrete floor of a shower. Totally worthless.

pj67coll · #10 04-21-2010, 10:46 AM

I'm researching this myself as my garage renovation nears the stage where I want to do the floor. Unfortunately it looks as if, as with most things in life, you get what you pay for. The industrial strength solvent based two part epoxy appears to be much better than the simpler cheaper stuff. I can still be done DIY but will take far more prep and completion time depending on the state of your floor. Mine has a decade of dirt, chemicals, oil on it etc so will require, diamond grinding, and acid etching before application. Also I'll need urethane finish coat to counterract UV yellowing as my garage is south facing so get's sun whenever the doors are open.

Here are some companies I'm researching...

http://www.musclegloss.com/start.php

http://www.epoxycoatfloorpaint.com/why_use_epoxycoat.php

http://www.indigofloorcoatings.com/index.html

I reckon it will take me a week to do my 680 sq ft two and a half car. From beginning of prep till I can drive into it.

- Peter.

aklim · #11 04-21-2010, 11:47 AM

So should I get the solvent based DIY stuff for a brand new garage or is it necessary to get it done professionally at $5 a sq ft?

MS Fowler · #12 04-21-2010, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layback40

If its at home, after you put it down & it has cured, find some old carpet & put carpet on the floor. When ever it ends up a mess, just replace it with more old carpet. You can usually get it for free from a carpet store. Its great in a garage as it makes it quieter & good to stand on when you are working on the car. I have about 5 layers on the floor of a dirt shed, its nearly as good as a concrete floor yet much better to work on.

While I admit that old carpeting has its uses, and is FAR more comfortable to lay on than either dirt, or concrete, there is a potential problem. Carpet will absorb stuff---stuff like gas and oil ( where would you ever find gas & oil in a garage??). FIRE!! That is the reason that building codes require floors in garages to be non cumbustible........

407.9 Privare Garages
Floor Surfaces: The floor finish of attached garages shall be of concrete or other approved noncombustible material.

I stored one of my Cubs in a wooden shed with a wooden floor, and began to worry about fire hazards under it.

TX76513 · #13 04-21-2010, 11:54 AM

Alkim - what did you do to prep your floor? I have been considering this and the floor was previously painted with (insert something here). Does all that have to be removed?

aklim · #14 04-21-2010, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TX76513

Alkim - what did you do to prep your floor? I have been considering this and the floor was previously painted with (insert something here). Does all that have to be removed?

I haven't done anything. This is a new construction and the floor looks like it has some sealer on it. I don't know anything more. I suspect I will have to use the etching solution on it.

pj67coll · #15 04-21-2010, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

I haven't done anything. This is a new construction and the floor looks like it has some sealer on it. I don't know anything more. I suspect I will have to use the etching solution on it.

If you have sealer on it I believe that sealer will have to be removed. Epoxy will not adhere otherwise.

- Peter.