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#1
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non-MB mechanical question.
My brother has a 1990 Chevy Blazer (full size) that he almost never drives. It has about 90k on the odometer. It has been mostly sitting in a semi-heated garage for the past 3 years. The last couple of times he did take it out it was very rough to start. Once started, it seemed to have a miss on acceleration. The last time he took it out it just shut off after about 10 minutes of driving. When he got it back I finally got it to start with a new battery. (old was dead and would not take a charge) Rough idle again and I checked the voltage at battery. It was @ 14+ volts at idle. I assumed the voltage regulator was bad in the alternator and that what helped kill battery.
Today I install new alternator, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It started right up and idled great once warm. Although I didn't get to add fresh fuel and clean the throttle body it idled fine and miss seemed gone. I noticed the voltmeter on the dash was almost in the red + side. I went to check with my meter but I think my battery was going dead. I jumped in and tried to drive it to the local Advance Auto to have them test the electrical system. I didn't make it. After 10 minutes of driving, the CEL started to flicker and the truck just shut off. Battery seems fine as all lights work and it will crank the motor without hesitation. I had my dad try to start with foot on accelerator and it is getting plenty of fuel. I am assuming no spark. Any ideas?
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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions) '08 Chevy Tahoe '93 Ducati 900 SS '79 Kawasaki KZ 650 '86 Kawasaki KX 250 '88 Kawasaki KDX200 '71 Hodaka Ace 100 '72 Triumph T100R |
#2
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using a multimeter, set it to measure DC volts (range: 2-20v). Place one lead on the positive terminal of the battery. Place the other lead on the negative terminal.
When the motor is not running, the reading should be exactly 12.6volts.(2.1volts per cell, and there are 6 cells). If it is less than that, you should get a new battery from Advance. When the motor is running. The voltage should be more than 12.6volts (ideally at least 13 volts but not much beyond 14volts). If this is the case, then the alternator is doing it's job of charging the batter and feeding the car's other electrical stuff (spark plugs, lighters, headlights, etc). If the voltage reads less than 12.6volts then the alternator is not charging the battery. This means the battery is powering your lights, etc. In this case, the alternator is faulty. Hope that helps
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Ben 1987 190d 2.5Turbo |
#3
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I wouldnt think electrical... II'd vote for problems from bad fuel. What codes show? a '90 would be TBI, right? I'd spray the throttle body with carb cleaner, and go from there.
~Nate
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
#4
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I had a lot of valves stick as a result of old fuel in a Dodge 413. Wouldn't idle.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#5
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X2. Disconnect fuel line and drain tank. I would think varish and crud in fuel lines and tank.
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86 300SDL. 250,xxx on #14 Head. One eye always on temp gauge.. Cruising towards 300K |
#6
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My next step would have been to drain what was in the tank and add new fuel then spray the throttle body. However, my brother had it towed to a garage.
The garage called today and said it started right up for them and then just shut off after a few minutes. Would not start again. No word yet.
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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions) '08 Chevy Tahoe '93 Ducati 900 SS '79 Kawasaki KZ 650 '86 Kawasaki KX 250 '88 Kawasaki KDX200 '71 Hodaka Ace 100 '72 Triumph T100R |
#7
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I vote for ignition module or coil cause your getting fuel. That garage needs to pull the coil wire whan it wont run and see if it has spark.
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