I just replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor as well as the alternator on this thing. My dad went to start it and the starter is not engaging. This happened to me once before and it started for me after I tapped on the starter. My dad wants to replace the starter. My nephew looked online and there is a website claiming that to replace the starter you need to drop the oil pan?

WTF?

I haven't looked at it myself that is why I am asking here.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

K5?

That's a K5 full size blazer? Not engaging is a very common issue for GMs, usually if you pull it, clean and lube the spiral threads the drive gear moves on, then reinstall it'll be fine. While it's out, replacing the solenoid is cheap insurance as well.
I have never had to drop a pan to remove a starter, though. Some of them you may have to remove the torque converter shield, and if it has headers usually the one that passes by the starter needs to be at least partially removed, but typically the starter has to come out for the oil pan to come out.

Isnt the K5 350 starter a two vertical bolt design. Should try to fall on you when you remove the bolts.

I think those later ones used a staggered bolt setup, but yeah it should drop when unbolted.

I found one online that said for the S10 blazer you need to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up slightly by the oil pan-

There should be a --pee on s10 blazers--decal .

Pick the Blazer in question:

Sorry, I should have specified. It is indeed the K5, full size. 350cube.

BTW, this has been my brother's pride and joy since he bought it new. 90k miles and the thing is showing its age but it is absolutely beautiful. I should post some pics. Thanks guys, I thought the oil pan thing was BS. I will have to take a look myself when I get a chance.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528008ee3b#hd1-1-2

Thanks! Don't know where my nephew was looking up the info. I plan on replacing the entire thing. I called Advance Auto and a reman with a warranty is only $50.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Note that this type of Blazer was known as a "V" series in 1990, not a "K" series. Relevant in regard to the instructions for recommended torque for certain bolts.

V is Suburban, the Blazer/Jimmy was a K5 until 91, then just Blazer/Yukon until 94.
For a Ford guy, I do know my GMs.

I found that taking it to a reputable starter/alternator rebuilding shop is preferable to anything rebuilt from who knows where. Depending on how busy they are you might have to wait a day or two to get it back. I am very happy with the people I use and never had to bring anything back to them.

I thought about that route also. The guys I usually take my stuff to are about 40 minutes away. I have to make time to take the thing off, let alone the time to drop off and pick up.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

It's been a few years since I rebuilt a Chevy starter but the parts were readily available from Pep-Boys at the time for cheap and it was very easy to do. That same starter was in the truck working when it went to the junk yard.