Mpolli - unfortunately that is not an option; wife threw it away.

Sorry I don't agree that chargers will have 120v present at the charging terminals.
If you dropped 120v across a 18v battery pack you'd have a fire or an explosion before you knew what happened.
Do you think your car battery charger has 120v at the clips ?

The charging terminals will have roughly the appropriate voltage, slightly above as mentioned earlier.

I do agree with getting a charger for the correct type (nicad, Lead acid or lithium) of battery.

Unfortunately without the original charger base though, you are in trouble.
But I like the Craigslist even Ebay route, possibly locate the manufacturer, even check with Pep boy's they might have a second (returned etc) at a store and might be willing to help you out.

__________________
KLK, MCSE

1990 500SL

I was always taught to respect my elders.
I don't have to respect too many people anymore.

Knudson - good idea. Headed to Pep Boys tomorrow.

Don't disagree with me, disagree with Craftsman and DeWalt:

These types of chargers don't use a transformer, they convert the line voltage to DC and then chop it to regulate by amps. That is how they are able to handle multiple voltages. Without a load, it is on so you have 120v across the terminals.
A car charger works very differently, with a transformer but they will go up to about 20v with no load on some, others it can burn them up to run them with no load.

Welder - that's pretty interesting. So my Sears car battery charger, which I am using unsuccessfully to try to charge the tool battery, is using a transformer and the current is coming out of the clamps at 12 volts. Universal chargers do it a different way - over my head but interesting.

I'm sure you know this but batterys can explode if not charged using the correct chargers,etc. I don't know all the ins and outs of the charging systems but I know enough not to experiment. I think Home Depot might still have an 18v DeWalt on sale this week for $99.00. If you can't find the correct charger I would look into something new. Just my opinion.

Well I sit corrected, never seen a charger that operates this way.

Thanks.

__________________
KLK, MCSE

1990 500SL

I was always taught to respect my elders.
I don't have to respect too many people anymore.

At this point, you should just wait for the old tools to be on Craigslist after Christmas, or the post-Christmas sales in stores. You know they're going to be going nuts this year, trying to get what's left of the money out there. You could probably get a decent replacement for under $100.

Well, last night I ordered the 24b electric scooter charger that Mpolli recommended. Just $15 and it just might work. Will keep you posted. Supposed to arrive Dec 6 or so.

...

__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

Dewalt has been using a123 batteries, I bet your packs are nicad or nimh

Well, the scooter charger arrived today sans the hookup to the scooter. (Turns out it is for a lead acid battery.) So I have the plug that goes in the wall but the other end which comes out of the charger and should go to the battery has just two bare wires. My battery has a + and - side. How do I figure out which wire is +?

I tested it connected to my tool battery with alligator clips. The charger is supposed to show a red light when charging and a green light when fully charged. Only get a green light - which I know is false because the battery is completely discharged. Changed the wires and got a green light again. Wondered if the battery was so far discharged that it would need a bit of charging before the red light comes on?? I tested it hooked up for about five minutes but nothing happened. Do not want to ruin my tool battery yet.

Right now I have it hooked up outside to an old trolling motor - 30 years old and no good. But I thought maybe I could get it to show a red light on the charger. Nothing so far.

Anyone have an idea how to tell which wire is +?

Thanks

Multimeter. It is possible it is bad, though as I recall they said it was working. Basically it is just a power supply with some current limiting circuitry. So you can put a meter on the output and you should measure a voltage there, maybe around 28 or 30V. That will also tell you what is positive. Yes it is for lead acid, probably gell cell. The main danger is if it would overcharge the small battery. But it sounds like you are having a different issue.

__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

Can you walk me through how to use the multimeter. What settings do I use? Do I touch the leads to the bare wire with it plugged into the wall? If I get a minus reading does that mean that I need to switch leads? Do I plug the wires into the middle and the bottom jacks on the multimeter?

My 1.5 page manual is not very clear and was written by someone for whom english is a third language.

Here is a pic of the multi tester; guess they are not all the same.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Throw the Pep-Boys junk in the garbage, then go to Home Depot and buy a set of Ryobi power tools for about $100 bucks. Problem solved.

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Question Authority before it Questions you.