I mentionned in the past I am working on a 1964 Vespa Allstate for my girlfriend (I said '65 previously, like the title says, but the VIN on the title, and on the bike decode to a '64... anyways)

The bike had two dents in it, which I got pretty well smoothed with a hammer and dolly. But I could only get it so smooth. Also there was a repair welded into the bike by a previous owner and a couple holes drilled in the bike. I filled them with weld and ground as smooth as an angle grinder can get.

So I assume its time for a THIN swipe of body filler. I want to reiterate I'm using filler to smooth the grind marks and minute dents left from the metal work. Not to fill holes, voids, or big dents.

So, is the consensus to do filler on bare metal?

Also, the bike is in bare metal, so it will need to be primed. I will need to do some priming to check my progress on the filler and sanding. Self Etching primer?

On the topic of etch primer, could I prime the bike myself with rattle can etch primer? The bike will ultimately be professionally painted. But I need to get some primer on the bike so I can see where I need to add filler, and so the bike won't rust in my shop. But the priming needs to be well done, I don't need the paint to start flaking off the first time the bike gets wet.

Any recommendations on brands of filler, and etch primer?

Thanks!

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

I guess it depends on the thickness of the filler you need to use. Are we talking millimeters or more? If you need to fill deep holes I would consider some sort of epoxy metal putty such as that made by KBS that was apparently used on the Toyota recall.

If you need to fill smaller / thinner amounts then there are loads of options. I've found quite a lot of good information for filling and painting from this site:-

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm

I guess for all types of fillers it is best to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I'm not really familiar with all that is available in the US of A so perhaps it would be best to say what about ? And see if you get any hits that way?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

All metal filler?
http://www.amazon.com/USC-Metal-Filler-Putty-Quart/dp/B003BWERU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1293738553&sr=8-1

Evercoat makes a number of fillers and glazes that work well for smoothing, but if you don't like it for whatever reason there are some metal fillers, Lab-Metal is supposedly good, or body solder, leaded or un.

Bare metal epoxy primer first-followed by urethane primer-Then glaze the pits with glazing putty--Or do them first with epoxy putty on the bare blasted metal-I like marine tex because it sands easy but any hardware store-jb weld stuff would work. I just would not use The kind with two "taffy strips " that you knead together.
Is that my old fiero?

If your bodywork is good, why not spray on a couple of coats of a spray-able filler? Goes on like thick primer.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

Spies is the only supplier of the spray bondo im aware of--its EXPENSIVE. I just heard/bought a new brand of glaze, Dolphin-comes in a paste tube, $9.99 instead of $25.00 for everglaze/metalglaze.
My tip of the day

There are actually two fieros in the picture. The 10,210 mile barn find 84 in the foreground. And the grandfather bought new 88GT 5speed next to it. There is also an 87 3800 Supercharged in the same room.

Okay, thanks for the priming tips. JB weld on bare metal as a pit filler for the welds, that could work.

I'll get some better pictures tomorrow.

I am thinking about leaving the sealing to the body guy, I may leave even the filler work to him if he won't charge me and arm and a leg.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

The POR15 people sell some excellent filler material. Much easier to work with than the JB-weld epoxy. I use the JB-weld a lot but as a binding epoxy and for unseen areas. Danged stuff is too much work to sand and form.

The POR15 Epoxy Putty goes on a bit tougher due to its consistency but you can shape it with wet fingers, sets in 20 minutes and sands like a dream.

They've got some videos on their web site