Great JAG XKE but SICK 327 Chevy.. dies in gear?? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Pooka · #16 07-18-2011, 01:17 PM

I don't think the leaky PVC valve is your problem. At one point you could buy a PVC 'air bleed' that was nothing more than a small intake filter that you installed between your PVC valve and your carb. It was supposed to increase mpg and maybe on some cars it did.

One thing it did do was shoot your NOx and HC levels right off the scale, so the EPA banned their sale. At least that is the reason that a lot of people gave for not selling them anymore.

One thing they did not do was make your engine run poorly.

Pooka · #17 07-18-2011, 01:23 PM

You might have to take the car to a shop that has an ignition analyzer. You can buy these if you wish since they are really nothing than an oscilloscope, but learning to read them is the hard part. And if the screen is less than eight inches wide they are very tough to see. If you get one off of Ebay make sure to get the book that goes with it so you can decode the wavy lines it will display.

But you can spot the smallest ignition problem since you can isolate down to one plug wire or even one spark plug, and one bad plug on a v-8 can cause real driveability problems.

kerry · #18 07-18-2011, 01:46 PM

By the way if you still have points and condensor in the distributor it would be good to switch them out to a Pertronix electronic ignition which fits inside the distributor. I still think it's a clogged idle circuit so there's no fuel for it to run when it comes off the main jets.

panZZer · #19 07-18-2011, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disbo100

Great JAG XKE but SICK 327 Chevy.. dies in gear

Hey guys,

I normally stick with Benz Diesels but when this came available as a weekend driver I couldn't pass it up.

Main issue: rough idle in PARK.. dies or about dies in any gear (Automatic trans) I have pulled off the carb and there was some junk in it but still has the same problem

I haven't WRENCHED on a 327 since High school and that was a FEW MOONS AGO...HA HA

There are only a few things it can be lack of fuel .. possible...but when you jump on it.. it GOES!!! , vacuum leak.. possible?

I replaced the Fuel filter..

Here are some pics and videos I send to Edelbrock.

intro

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAOKyFVPGEI

then watch this one... They are only a min or two long

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkIOg57J9JM

Post a response and help point me in the right direction.... thanks

auto parts store fuel pump putting out 9psi fuel pressure when you only need 3psi max, put a regulator on it and pinch it down and if its a quadraf*** take it apart and seal the four plugs on the underside of the main body with jb weld or another fuel resistant epoxy.

Travis_k · #20 07-18-2011, 02:52 PM

I have never really seen under the hood of one of those, so I could be wrong, but... I have heard from several sources that engine swaps cause structural integrity issues with those because the engine is part of the structure of the front frame. Does anyone else know if that's the case?

Local2ED · #21 07-18-2011, 02:57 PM

A bad torque converter can exhibit the stalling systems you describe.
The same as coming to a stop in a stick shift car without pressing the clutch.
If you think it's vacuum related put a vacuum gauge on it.

That should say "stalling symptoms"

Txjake · #22 07-18-2011, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travis_k

I have never really seen under the hood of one of those, so I could be wrong, but... I have heard from several sources that engine swaps cause structural integrity issues with those because the engine is part of the structure of the front frame. Does anyone else know if that's the case?

people have been swapping domestic V8s into XKEs since the 60s: never heard of any problem like that. Don't think the engine is a stressed memeber, as it is not a full monocoque frame.

OMEGAMAN · #23 07-18-2011, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disbo100

thanks for all the great comments..

I may have found part of the problem.

The big vacuum line coming off the carb to the PCV on the valve cover was very loose. Not on the carb end but on the Valve cover end.

The PCV was very loose and didnt take much to pull it off. Once I looked at it the rubber seal was half gone and someone had put some sticky black cloth tape on there to try to make the seal work.

Im sure it doesnt work any more...

I went to the other side of the engine and pulled off the other one ( that doesnt have the vacuum line to it) and the rubber seal was very tight like it should be..

It would be AWESOME if its something this silly!!

If the valve pulled out of the hose easily your on to something. If it was just a worn out gromet going into the valve cover thats not your problem.
That engine doesnt have points as some have suggested. the distributor is electronic call HEI. Great system and lots of aftermarkets have modeled theirs after it. you could check timing with a light if you like but it shouldnt go out of adjustment unless the timing chain wears retarding cam timing. Thats a pretty slow process. timing at idle should be somewhere around 8 DEG BEFORE TDC with the vac advance disconnected and engine at idle.

disbo100 · #24 07-18-2011, 10:43 PM

Well... Yall were right..

It didnt solve the problem. I put a new grommet in and didnt make any difference... When I plugged the line going to the PCV valve it actually ran smoother...

Still when I dropped in gear.. It dropped RPM fast and DIED..

How do I investigate if the torque converter is bad or out of adjustment?
I dont know SQUAT about torque converters but when I give it a little gas and am going a good speed 20-60mph the tranny is shifting fine..

Too much vacuum to the tranny?

Looks like a bunch of folks have tossed in some good ideas.. Im sure yall are as interested as I am to get it ROLLING!!

Local2ED · #25 07-19-2011, 08:25 AM

Can you adjust your idle to the correct rpm's whilr it is in park or neutral and does it idle fine?

From what I got from your info, you turned the idle up so it wouldn't die in gear, is that correct?

I don't have any way to test the torque converter but I would talk to a reputable transmission shop. I think I read some people felt a shudder while slowing or stopping.

disbo100 · #26 07-19-2011, 09:08 AM

Answer to last post.. Yes it idles just fine in Park or Neutral.. when warmed up.

Hey guys,

I thought of something else.. Perhaps yall can shoot some holes in it. HAHA

I recall the seller telling me that he bought a gasket for the rear end since he suspected it was leaking and or was low on gear oil. If there was enough friction from the rear to put force on the tranny could it stall out the engine when it is put in gear?

First thing I'll do is jack it up and see what is in the rear end bell housing...

Once I'm OK that it has good oil in it I'll put the car in neutral and use a strap wrench and move the fluid around while moving the drive shaft..

Does this plan make sense?

Aquaticedge · #27 07-19-2011, 09:19 AM

low fluid in the rear end would not stall the engine, it should idle in gear until you try to accelerate, but you would notice it not moving long before you get a stall

Txjake · #28 07-19-2011, 03:35 PM

what is your idle speed in neutral or park? does this thing have a cam with a lot of overlap? you might try setting your idle a bit higher, though I am still thinking intake leak or carb issues.

disbo100 · #29 07-19-2011, 07:53 PM

In idle /park Im around 2000 when I drop it in gear it MAY keep running if its warm..

Not sure if the carb has a cam??

if you think its still a fuel air issue.. what do you recommend next?

kerry · #30 07-19-2011, 08:03 PM

Run some laquer thinner thru the carb. I think that's Barry's trick.