Air pressure on F-250
The sticker in the door jamb says 55 psi front and 80 psi rear. This strikes me as pretty high. The tires say 80 psi max. I figure you need those pressures to achieve the max GVW. Would it be reasonable to run them lower provided you don't need to haul 1500 lbs?
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You could but I run 80 all around my excursion
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Sounds about right, e rated tires run a lot of PSI.
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If you run 80 psi with an empty bed you will wear your tires in the middle and have unsafe handling. In my diesel F350's with utility beds and a full complement of tools and parts I run about 60 psi in the rear and 50 in the front with load range E tires. At about 8500 lbs total weight this seems to give good tire wear and as good a ride as can be expected from an F350 4x4. If I am going to get a load of firewood or something heavy I will air up the rears to 80 psi for the duration, then back to 60 psi. I have never found much reason to vary the pressure in the front tires as the pretty much carry a constant load. Aklim- I don't know how you can stand 80 psi all the way around in an Excursion!! On mine I go 50 all the way around and it still bounces on the slightest bump. You must have smooth roads where you live!
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Everything you want to know about tire pressure:
http://www.goodyear.com/truck/pdf/da...dInflation.pdf |
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The tires on my truck take 65 PSI so that's where I run them. I don't drive it much but when I do, I'm usually hauling something big or towing something heavy. |
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Try the pdf again
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I run about 65 front and 70 rear on my 2000 Excursion. Never know what kind of load I will have on a given day. Yeah, I get beat to death with the high pressure. The truck tends to wander and dart around with the fronts up that high. On the plus side, the fuel economy is better with the harder tire. With an 8,000 lb flying brick, you do what you can to increase the economy.
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yeah, it has an adjustment just like a Benz. I just hate to twist on the screw if I can help it. From what I hear, the reason most steering boxes get sloppy is that the bushings at the end of the shafts wear and the adjustment is only a bandaid. One of these days I'm gonna buy a steering box for a 126 from a pick n pull and learn to rebuild them.
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In the 170,000 odd miles I've driven, I've only replaced one radius arm that got sloppy. That and adjusting the steering box has done wonders for the highway driving experience. It literally takes seconds to adjust it. Just make sure that the wheel is perfectly straight when you do it. There's a "hump" in the mechanism at center to take the slop out of it when steering down a long straight. Screw the adjuster down until it just bottoms then back slightly. If you tighten it with the wheel turned, it'll bind when to turn back towards center. |
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