I have a set 2 pc wheels that are in need of refurb. Do you folks recommend Respraying or powder coating for the best finishing/long lasting durability

__________________
Regards,

Albert
aldedmon@yahoo.com

Is the rim polished? If so I would do a proper paint job on the centers.

I would think powder coating will last much longer

__________________
Closing the store
Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet.

Powder coating is much more durable than painting. I have a set of stock rims for the 560 that are going to be PC'd on my next trip to my friends shop in Ohio. Low cost, quck turnaround and durable finish are the reasons...

__________________
1987 560SL
85,000 miles

If money is not an issue, powder coating all the way. VERY durable.

__________________
[GONE] - 1995 Mercedes E300 Diesel - 130k miles - Smoke Silver (702) over Mushroom leather (265) - Bladder blasting, coast-to-coast work machine.

It doesn't cost much...most places will do it for about $50-$75 per wheel.

I just had a local guy do the stock wheels on my wife's Tahoe for $45 each

__________________
1987 560SL
85,000 miles

There is concern amongst some that the temperatures used in powder coating can alter the strength of the wheel. If temperatures over 400 degF are used it could indeed reduce some of the temper and strength of an alumunum wheel. Some wheel makers recommend against refinishing their wheels using powder coat.
I had a set of wheels for my '95 E320 wagon powder coated a year ago; so far with no signs of reduced strength even when used on the notoriously bad roads in PA.

Powder coating will last a lot longer. Painting is cheaper. Plast-dip is removable, costs a lot less than paint (only a little more than a few cans of Krylon), and lasts longer than spraypaint. It's not available in a wide range of colors, but it's an option, especially if you want to try something like flat black & decide in a few months you don't like it.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

I got a price from a local shop in Baltimore, MD.
$75 per wheel, IF I sandblast and deliver them ready to shoot.
Seems high to me.

__________________
1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

It is high, especially since you have to media blast it first. Don't sand blast them...you'll not like the ending finish. Soda blasting is preferred.

If they are already PC'd, then it will need to be baked off, then redone.

Call around and shop for prices. Don't necessarily go to wheel shops for the coating, as they almost always send them out to a vendor. Locate those vendors in your area and work with them direct.

__________________
1987 560SL
85,000 miles

I had a set of AMG Pentas powdercoated a few years ago, $75 per, with prep and low temp powder and clear. The powder fills in all the surface scratches and all but the deepest gouges.

Heat used for powder coating (200+/-) is not detrimental to Aluminum wheels. Most of what is floating around are uneducated guesses about the process: the weakening of the 'heat treatment' of Aluminum (forged @ 300-) which is not anywhere near powdercoating temps is not as common as the stories will have you believing. There are bad ways to do anything, but it's hard to prove that a long-standing and widely used process like heat curing powder coated wheels is causing strength issues all on it's own. If a wheel can be welded and perform a lifetime of trouble free duty, when the temps for welding are astronomical compared to baking powdercoating, I'd say your wheels will be fine.

__________________
1987 560SL
85,000 miles

There are thousands of old stoves out there that the oven still functions on. If you can get a rim into it do a test of one or two junk rims first. The electrostatic powder gun is not that expensive either I believe.

If you can spare the storage room the oven takes up you could powder coat a lot of items. Keep it on wheels and a long cable to roll it outside to get rid of the heated plastic smell when operating. I have not done this myself yet but it is on my list. If you had the time to spare you might even do some powder coating for others.

Stoves are great for small parts, but I wouldn't want to do a rim in it. Pretty hard to hang it or set it in a residential style oven. A pro shop is the best bet for rims.

^^^This!!

I have two ovens in storage that I've used to do my own powdercoating over the years. Both were curb finds that worked fine. I've coated all of the accessory brackets on the Durango, as well as my wife's truck. Simple to do, and inexpensive as well.

I tried my hand twice at doing rims...the oven is too small to stay at the needed constant temp to get the proper finish. To do rims, you'd need a much larger oven.

The offroad parts that I make on the side are coated by a buddy of mine that owns a larger oven. It's a 10'X12' unit he installed in his detached garage. The price for the oven was very reasonable...less than $15k, all electronic system, great if you're interested in a small, start-up business.

I'm hoping that I can get my garage built this summer so I can start customizing the Tahoe.

__________________
1987 560SL
85,000 miles