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#1
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Adhesive question
Need to glue a Gazing ball made of stainless steel to a Polyresin stand.
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#2
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Thats a tough one, the two part epoxies commonly avalable are so so at best-like jb weld. JB quick is even crummier. You would need to line it up in the as wished mounted position and mask it carefully--then grind the metal and whatever kinda "polyresin" material it is good to get a mechanical bond. poly could be polyester -adhesives--resin, dosent want to stick to even itsself very well, and absorbs moisture, it its got filler -Bondo, its much worse about wicking moisture. I like marine tex epoxy putty avalable at places like Cabellas--in the boat shop out back and usually under the counter, Itworks good on car body restoration-sands like wood, but what your doing you dont have to sand it.
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#3
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I will give it a try.Thanks
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#4
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Gorilla Glue....
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For the Saved, this world is the worst it will ever get. For the unSaved, this world is the best it will ever get. Clk's Ebay Stuff BUY SOMETHING NOW!!! |
#5
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I could see this was going to be a very sticky thread !!!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#6
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Over-rated, expensive, and it turns your hands black. It's good with wood in some applications.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#7
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Roughen up the stainless glueing surface. Get a small quantity of panel adhesive from a body shop. My body guy swears by the stuff.
It is expensive and thats why I suggest buying or scrounging a little from a body shop. He seems to think it is even much better than even slow curing epoxy. He uses the stuff at home for many non car applications. Slow curing eight hour epoxy would be my second choice. Fast curing is almost worthless in comparison to it in my opinion. The contact area of the polyresin stand has to be roughened up as well. That is the area where it will be the hardest to get a good bond. You might even be able to make this a mechanical joint depending on a lot of unknown factors. |
#8
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3M4200 (or is it 5200?). Used in marine applications. Very strong. Available at HD around here.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#9
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Quote:
3M panel bond is incredible. It is pricey, but it holds better than anything I've ever seen.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
#10
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get the surfaces to mate properly and use super glue
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#11
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I got a stainless one at a yard sale my wife liked. It had a tiny hole in the bottom. I enlarged it with a 1/4" drill bit, got a double ended taper thread lag with knurling in the middle for pliers. screwed it into the ball till tight then drilled hole in top of resin stand, screwed said ball into stand then stood back a distance and commenced to gaze at it.
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#12
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Quote:
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#13
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Ball, not plural. I believe the medical name is monorchidiasis if you wanna be fancy.
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#14
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I don't want to be fancy.
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For the Saved, this world is the worst it will ever get. For the unSaved, this world is the best it will ever get. Clk's Ebay Stuff BUY SOMETHING NOW!!! |
#15
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OK Guy at HD recommended 3M panel bond.It worked great.Thanks Guys
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