Brand new project popped up on the lovely Mrs eng's list yesterday morning. We have stated the process of glazing/resealing the windows and will follow up with painting. I have attached a pic of where I have installed some DAP 33 Glaze to reseal around the windows. Is this the correct stuff to use? It seems that this stuff does not get real hard and seal like rtv would. I'm not sure we are going to be able to come back along and paint over this stuff? The can indicates that it will remain pliable.

Any thoughts/comments that would help me get going in the right direction. This is kinda a pia job if you ask me.

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Jim

PIA is putting it lightly.
I re-did my old house before selling it and it looked like your windows or worse. I used Dap 33 and its paintable, it should say so on the can.
You feather it with a spatula its seals ok.Should be glazing points under the old glaze to hold the window too.
Busting out the old stuff resulted in a few cracked panes.

I've never Glazed windows before. only Donuts. but it might be paint-able, should say on the tube/can if it is or not

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

It says it is paintable on the can. I'm going to proceed with the way I'm doing it. I've watched a couple youtube videos so I at least have a handle on how to do it.

This is not the type of work my mind is suited to.

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Jim

Back about 1980 or so, my wifes twin sister and her husband lived in a BEAUTIFUL old house with LOTS of windows. We had a hail storm on a Friday night that knocked about 70 panes. He called me about 4AM Saturday and asked me to come over so we could be at the hardware store when they opened the doors. He knew they would run out of glass quick.

We were at their door with dimensions and got all our panes, old fashioned glazier's putty and some points. We had all of them done by dark and the next weekend the wives painted over the putty.

There has been SO much change in the products used for this, that I expect that today there's stuff that can be painted over immediately.

After you've done one or two with the old fashioned putty, you can put it on, scrape off a beautiful 45 degree bevel, and scrape off excess in no time. Anyone capable of overhauling an MB diesel will get the hang of it in milliSeconds! The putty knife will be as at home in your hands as a 13MM combination wrench.

Good luck with it.

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I've always had good luck with DAP33.

Best to remove all of the old glazing, which, as Duderino pointed out, will result in some broken panes. If you have old glass in the house, then it is well worth your while to acquire (unless you already have) some old glass to replace the broken ones. Yard sales are a great source for the old wavy glass, and it looks so much better than a new, flat piece in a multipane window of old.

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With the old glazing being hard as a rock and difficult to remove with a putty knife, I like to use an angle grinder fitted with 24 grit discs. It makes fast work of the removal, provided you've got a steady hand and don't dip into the wood.

I might use 24 to take most of it away and finish it up with 50.

The entire process is much faster with the grinder.

Of course, you can't go all the way to the corners................

Dang Brian, you so smart, you know how to do everything. I wish I was as smart as you.

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Used to do it all the time in the old home land, can't remember it as a hard job if you have the right tools.

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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

I use regular glazing putty. Don't know if that's the same as Dap 33. I use linseed oil on any raw wood. Use double strength glass on any replacement. I like a fairly flexible putty knife as opposed to a rigid one. Heating up the glazing compound will soften it for removal. Use a heat gun?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
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1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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You need one of these for perfect angles and lines:

1 in. 2-in-1 Putty Knife-GT at The Home Depot

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2000 F250

If you are careful a heat gun works wonders for removing the hardened compound.

If you are serious about the task and true preservation of the old windows I would suggest also removing the glass and giving the raw wood of the glazing bed a dose of linseed oil. This will help preserve the wood and help with adhesion of the glazing compound. Unless you plan to be performing this task regularly I would also suggest that you use an oil based compound (We have had excellent results with DAP33) and not the latex crap that is commonly found today. Only drawback to the oil based stuff is that it should set for at least a week prior to painting (we generally recommend a month). If performed carefully a good glazing job will last 25 years plus. Last year I had all of our 1880's sash redone (38 windows) for the first time since I did it myself in 1974.

PS: One of my primary job functions is providing technical assistance to contractors on historic preservation projects.

Jim

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Its been YEARS, but I seem to remember glazing points--little steel diamonds that actually retain the glass. Push them into the wood so that they hold the glass, then glaze over them.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

I've always been under the impression that you should let it cure for a few weeks before painting. It is a PITA job, I've done it plenty of times. Moistening a putty knife can help with smoothing it.

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